Hello to everyone on the board here. My name is Uros and I spent a lot of time reading this forum before I posted anything. I'm not so new in car audio , but I'm fairly new on trying to repair oldskool goodness. Actually, my dad is the handy man and I just try to learn from him.
Now on the subject matter, I bought Hifonics Olympus and Zeus VII for more than reasonable price yesterday. While the Olympus was sounding like a charm, the Zeus wasn't playing anything...
When you hook it to power supply, power led turns on and stays that way as long as you like, with or without rca signal. When you start to rotate the gain knob suddenly amp cuts out voltage and diagnostics led turns on. After turning off and on power, amp resets itself and power led comes on again and everything repeats.
Guts look pretty mint, without traces of burnt parts or leaking caps.
Can somebody help with pointing out some obvious parts to inspect and what could cause this kind of behavior?
Many thanks, Uros.
P.S.- when you hook the remote wire, it usually takes 5 seconds for amp to power up (lighting up the power led), hope this helps a bit...
Now on the subject matter, I bought Hifonics Olympus and Zeus VII for more than reasonable price yesterday. While the Olympus was sounding like a charm, the Zeus wasn't playing anything...
When you hook it to power supply, power led turns on and stays that way as long as you like, with or without rca signal. When you start to rotate the gain knob suddenly amp cuts out voltage and diagnostics led turns on. After turning off and on power, amp resets itself and power led comes on again and everything repeats.
Guts look pretty mint, without traces of burnt parts or leaking caps.
Can somebody help with pointing out some obvious parts to inspect and what could cause this kind of behavior?
Many thanks, Uros.
P.S.- when you hook the remote wire, it usually takes 5 seconds for amp to power up (lighting up the power led), hope this helps a bit...
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If the pot is VERY dirty, it could cause this. I'd try using contact cleaner and rotating it limit to limit about 50 times.
Also, if there is any oily looking substance nearthe primary filter caps, it's likely leaked electrolyte which would require changing the caps and possibly cutting away any saturated parts of the board.
Also, if there is any oily looking substance nearthe primary filter caps, it's likely leaked electrolyte which would require changing the caps and possibly cutting away any saturated parts of the board.
Update since yesterday: My dad cleaned gain knob and it no longer does into diagnostics mode after adjusting it. Mainboard is removed from the heatsink and as far as he could tell there is no sign of caps leaking on it.
After new measurements, he states that output transistors are receiving only 15V instead of 55V. He also said that transistors labeled as D100 and D200 are turning down this voltage to output ones instead of just passing it through at 55V.
Any further help is most appreciated and thanks for your previous post Perry.
After new measurements, he states that output transistors are receiving only 15V instead of 55V. He also said that transistors labeled as D100 and D200 are turning down this voltage to output ones instead of just passing it through at 55V.
Any further help is most appreciated and thanks for your previous post Perry.
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