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Help New Guy (Rockville RXA T1 Car Amp)
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Old 6th December 2017, 05:55 PM   #31
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
They might be 2N6055C darlingtons, I can't imagine their use in an automotive amplifier claiming that power level. I can't imagine an automotive amp could produce that much power in a package of that size or cost.

References to YPI semiconductors appear on the web, I would not click the associated links as they appear bogus.

The amp costs about $70 retail so I would not spend much on an attempt to repair it.
Sorry Kevin i must have overlooked your response - sorry about that. Rockville car / marine amps are not bad. They are not the best out there but not the worst either. But for the price they are hard to beat. Most of their amps / speakers have three ratings Peak / RMS / CEA for various speaker loads.

For example this 1500 watt 2 channel has the following specs:

Rockville RXM-T1 1500 Watt Peak / 750 Watt RMS Marine 2 Channel Amplifier

CEA Compliant Power Ratings:
250 Watts (2 x 125 Watts) at 4 ohms and 1% THD+N
370 Watts (2 x 185 Watts) at 2 ohms < 1% THD
1 x 370 Watts bridged @ 4 Ohms < 1% THD

RMS Power Ratings:
750 Watts (2 x 375 Watts RMS) @ 2 ohms
1 x 750 Watts @ 4 ohm Bridged Mono
500 Watts (2 x 250 Watts RMS @ 4 ohms) < 1% THD

Peak Power:
1500 Watts (2 x 750 @ 2 ohms or 1 x 1500 @ 4 Ohms)

I always go by the CEA ratings for amps/speakers since it's the closest realistic rating you can get. Problem is a lot of manufacturers don't include CEA ratings for their gear.

BTW - I have Rockville's RXM-S6 Marine/Boat 6 Channel Amplifier bolted to the back wall behind the rear seat in my pickup. It's powering 12 8ohm door speakers, plus 2 dual 4ohm voice coil 10" subwoofers. If I get on it, it's so freaking loud it makes my eyes water, rattles my teeth and makes my nose itch. Not to say all mirrors are rendered useless. I really enjoy the clear A/B sound the RXM-6X produces and it's given me absolutely zero problems so far.

Have a look see -->Rockville RXM-S6 Marine/Boat 6 Channel Amplifier 2600 Watt Peak / 1300w RMS - Rockville Audio

Anyways I hope that helps???

Last edited by Jeff Mills; 6th December 2017 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 1st January 2018, 05:29 PM   #32
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Well I replaced channel 1 output transistors along with a few resistors. I also replaced all of the power supply transistors with IRF3205s. I then hooked it up to a 12v power supply with a 5watt fuse, did a little probing. I thought everything looked good... I even played it about 15 mins on the test bench.

I then reinstalled it back in my truck and after about 10 mins of playing the power supply bank burnt out

IMG_20180101_121540976.jpg

I know for sure I didn't have any solder bridges - now I'm lost on where to start over.

Last edited by Jeff Mills; 1st January 2018 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 1st January 2018, 05:55 PM   #33
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Location: Louisiana
I don't know you you posted the last image but clicking on it after typing part of a reply will cause the loss of everything typed. Please use the 'Go Advanced' and "Manage Attachments' option to post images.

Did you check/replace the driver transistors?
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Old 2nd January 2018, 03:01 AM   #34
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Mills View Post
Well I replaced channel 1 output transistors along with a few resistors. I also replaced all of the power supply transistors with IRF3205s. I then hooked it up to a 12v power supply with a 5watt fuse, did a little probing. I thought everything looked good... I even played it about 15 mins on the test bench.

I then reinstalled it back in my truck and after about 10 mins of playing the power supply bank burnt out

Attachment 654089

I know for sure I didn't have any solder bridges - now I'm lost on where to start over.
I reattached the picture. I just replace all of channel 1 and both banks of power supply transistors. A few resistors we're also open and needed to be replaced.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180101_121540976.jpg (1.01 MB, 48 views)
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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:15 AM   #35
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Re-read post #12
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Old 3rd January 2018, 04:41 PM   #36
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Re-read post #12
Thanks Perry!

Anyone know where I can purchase a pair of MUR1220CT/MUR1220CTR or substitutes?
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Old 3rd January 2018, 06:13 PM   #37
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Are the rectifiers defective?
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Old 4th January 2018, 02:25 AM   #38
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Are the rectifiers defective?
Yes sad to say I also checked / re-flowed solder joints D23/24. I also tested both outputs (A1266) one is shorted.
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Old 4th January 2018, 02:51 AM   #39
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Did you check them out of the board? It's very rare to see rectifiers fail in an amp like this.


MUR1620CTRG ON Semiconductor | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey

MUR1620CTG ON Semiconductor | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey
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Old 5th January 2018, 12:02 AM   #40
Jeff Mills is offline Jeff Mills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Did you check them out of the board? It's very rare to see rectifiers fail in an amp like this.


MUR1620CTRG ON Semiconductor | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey

Hi Perry no not yet but I will... New symptom though I hope you can help me with. Even with the remote wire unhooked the negative side of the bank of 3 PS transistors heat up / snap / crackle / pop / burn up. They are IRF3205 with 47 ohm resistor on the gate. The positive side is fine.

I have not replace the two outputs yet A1266 - waiting for them to come in.

MUR1620CTG ON Semiconductor | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey

Last edited by Jeff Mills; 5th January 2018 at 12:08 AM.
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