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Alpine 3545 blows all fuses after 5 seconds of power
Alpine 3545 blows all fuses after 5 seconds of power
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Old 24th November 2017, 03:30 AM   #11
bmore5077 is offline bmore5077  United States
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You have been a huge help. Ill get the transistors ordered and pull the transistors tommorrow. I have a new soldering station coming in the mail tommorrow. Ill post my findings then. Thanks alot
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Old 24th November 2017, 03:37 AM   #12
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Wait to order in case you need other parts.
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Old 25th November 2017, 12:51 AM   #13
bmore5077 is offline bmore5077  United States
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I removed the one output transistor and the other 2 check out fine now. I put in a 15 amp fuse and left the bad transistor out. I powered it up but it makes a low sizzle sound but powers on. Didn't want to apply power long with that noise or is it ok to keep it powered with the bad transistor out. Lmk thanks
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Old 25th November 2017, 01:00 AM   #14
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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All of the heatsink mounted components must be screwed down tightly to the aluminum strips.

What are you using for a 12v power supply?

How much current is it drawing?
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Old 25th November 2017, 01:49 AM   #15
bmore5077 is offline bmore5077  United States
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Everything is screw in tight except of course the one bad transistor I removed. I am just using a 12v car battery because I don't hav3 a power supply. I did only use one 15 amp fuse in the amp. I didn't like the hissing noise so I only hooked it up for like 10 seconds but it didn't blow a fuse like before.
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Old 25th November 2017, 02:13 AM   #16
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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It could have some bad capacitors. Suspect any with a brown residue at its base. The ones on the vertical board in the center of the amp are commonly defective. You can slide a piece of thin card stock like that of a business card under the caps to look for residue of leaked electrolyte. Thanks to Cecil for that idea.

Heating the terminals is another option but it risks bridging solder which could be difficult to find if it happens. If the caps have electrolyte leaking, the heat will release a fishy or anti-freeze like odor.

If there is a power supply adjustment procedure in the service manual, that should be done.
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Old 25th November 2017, 02:18 AM   #17
bmore5077 is offline bmore5077  United States
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Ok I'll check those things. There is a adjustment in the service manual. Never thought capacitors would make a hiss. You have been a huge help. I'll keep chipping away at it. Thanks
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Old 25th November 2017, 02:23 AM   #18
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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The leaked electrolyte is conductive and can bridge between circuits, causing all sorts of problems. Losing electrolyte also reduced the capacitance which can cause problems.

After adjusting the power supply voltage, you may want to try adjusting the bias for the output transistors. Too little bias could make the power supply a bit unstable. If you adjust the bias, turn the pots very slowly while watching the meter. Adjusting by watching the current draw is sometimes easier but requires a series connected amp meter in the B+ line.

Example:
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/ausettingbias.swf
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Old 25th November 2017, 02:24 AM   #19
bmore5077 is offline bmore5077  United States
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There is a brown hard substance at the bottom of the largest 2 brown capacitors. It seems like glue or adhesive. Hard and opaque. Not sticky
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Old 25th November 2017, 02:28 AM   #20
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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That's likely a fixative. It can sometimes become conductive AND corrosive but it's generally gooey/soft when it's going to be a problem. Set your meter to ohms (highest range if not auto-ranging) and place the meter probe on it, as close as possible, without them touching. The meter reading should not change from what it reads with open probes.
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