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SAZ-1500D V2 Repair Questions
SAZ-1500D V2 Repair Questions
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Old 8th November 2017, 02:33 AM   #1
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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Default SAZ-1500D V2 Repair Questions

I have a SAZ-1500D V2 to repair. I have not repaired this model before, and some of the internals look questionable. I am not sure if they are standard or not. I have looked at these 2 threads and the first two questions I have look to be normal in the other threads, but I want to confirm.

Sundown SAZ-1500D - Help identifying zener diodes

Class-d missing parts

First, it looks like the cap is supposed to be connected to the screw hole, but it certainly looks like a hack.

Second, U11 has a component soldered to pin 3. It looks like a decent solder job, but is still non-standard.

Third, R186 looks like it was floating around the amp. This is the only spot I could find that looks like a resistor was there, but is not now. The resistor I found floating around looks like a 240 ohm resistor, but I cannot confirm where it came from. Can someone confirm R186 is a 240 ohm resistor?

I have not tested the amp farther as I wanted to get the obvious taken care of. Half of the output section is shorted, so I will pull the outputs before I try to power it up.
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Old 8th November 2017, 03:52 AM   #2
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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1. The cap on the screw is normal.

2. The blue 0 ohm jumper is normal.

3. This the resistor in that location (attached).
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Old 8th November 2017, 04:12 AM   #3
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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Thanks Perry. Interesting that the resistor I found floating around is not that one. Also, it looks like I have R186 and R187 missing from my amp. R187 looks like nothing was ever there. Which way do you read those resistors? They look symmetrical in their color banding, and it makes a big difference in the value depending which way you read it!
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Old 8th November 2017, 04:17 AM   #4
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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They are 1% so the brown is the tolerance.
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Old 8th November 2017, 04:38 AM   #5
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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Thanks again. I'll assume that the 4th band on both is red as it being purple would put it in the gigaohms I'll get the right resistors in there, pull the outputs, then see where the amp stands.
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Old 11th November 2017, 06:14 AM   #6
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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So one side of outputs were all shorted. I pulled them out of the board, but the question is can the amp be powered up with half of the outputs removed? I'm guessing not as it would control either the positive or negative half of the signal. I could pull the rectifiers to remove the high voltage, but will this still power up the rest of the output section to even see if I have any other issues there? The drivers seemed to bug OK (KTA1715/KTC2814 pair) with a multimeter.
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Old 11th November 2017, 06:50 AM   #7
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Remove the rectifiers, solder a bridge between legs 1 and 2 of IC1 on the driver board.

Drive a strong 100hz signal into the amp. Do you get low-side drive at the output transistors?
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Old 13th November 2017, 11:31 PM   #8
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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When you say drive a strong 100Hz signal, do you mean just into the regular RCA input? I did that with a 3V peak to peak 100hz signal with the gain knob on the amp turned all the way up and I do not see anything that looks like a drive signal on the output transistors. The +15 and -15V regulators are working fine. Protect light is not on. On the driver board, these are the voltages I see. Pin 1 is considered the farthest left as you are facing the board. Ground reference is chassis ground. I do still need to install the 2 missing resistors, but they have not arrived yet.

Driver Card:

Pin 1: 0V
Pin 2: 7.8V
Pin 3: 0.4V
Pin 4: -2.8V
Pin 5: -2.8V
Pin 6: -2.8V
Pin 7: 9.36V
(gap)
Pin 8: My 100Hz test tone. It varies with gain/signal level. Clips at +/- 3.75V
Pin 9: 0V
Pin 10: 14.7V
Pin 11: 0V
Pin 12: -14.5V
Pin 13: 400mV
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Old 14th November 2017, 06:39 AM   #9
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Did you bridge IC! pins 1 and 2?
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Old 14th November 2017, 02:58 PM   #10
midnightg35x is offline midnightg35x  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Did you bridge IC! pins 1 and 2?
Yes I did. I actually bridged it at a capacitor and resistor right below IC1 because it was easier to get to, but I followed the traces up to pins 1 and 2 of IC1 (5532 opamp I believe). I also used a multimeter to verify the short on pins 1 and 2 of IC1.
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