Hi All, I'm resurrecting my badly fried MTX2300. The board is burnt in places. Is anybody able to help me with some images of the circuit board?
This has been going on for ten years and back in the day I decided to increase the current carrying capacity of the board by adding solder and jumper cables, just to add to the complexity of the job now!
I would love a partner in this who can give me some guidance. I'm off work at the moment...ideal time to finish off these long term projects.
This has been going on for ten years and back in the day I decided to increase the current carrying capacity of the board by adding solder and jumper cables, just to add to the complexity of the job now!
I would love a partner in this who can give me some guidance. I'm off work at the moment...ideal time to finish off these long term projects.
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Perry! Very glad to see you are still here as I've just read through all the threads.
So. In my photo you can see the boards burnt, and I'm halfway through making a repair.
I have R164 missing. Can you tell me what it is?
Also missing is R151.
Capacitor C91 is gone, was a white rectangle.
Thanks for the help.
So. In my photo you can see the boards burnt, and I'm halfway through making a repair.
I have R164 missing. Can you tell me what it is?
Also missing is R151.
Capacitor C91 is gone, was a white rectangle.
Thanks for the help.
Aha, I see the circuit mirroring now. I remember why this project stopped now, the resistors I sourced were the wrong wattage. Are these ten watt resistors? I have that resistance but only about 5mm long.
Second stoppage was the capacitors. I ordered 0.015microfarads 100v and they look rather different to those I took off the board, which are too distorted to read properly, C90 and C91. Can you tell me what I should have here please Perry?
Should be good to go with this info.
(Note, I now need to use my phone to take a photo and then zoom in to identify these components. Damn ageing process)
Second stoppage was the capacitors. I ordered 0.015microfarads 100v and they look rather different to those I took off the board, which are too distorted to read properly, C90 and C91. Can you tell me what I should have here please Perry?
Should be good to go with this info.
(Note, I now need to use my phone to take a photo and then zoom in to identify these components. Damn ageing process)
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you have the right cap for the cap on the rectifier.
C91 (hard to read) is a 0.012uf.
For the two resistors standing together, they are the same value.
If you can find a Dr Mom otoscope at walmart pharmacy area near thermometers ($20), they are the best I've found for reading SMD values and color codes (good white LED for accurate color rendering).
C91 (hard to read) is a 0.012uf.
For the two resistors standing together, they are the same value.
If you can find a Dr Mom otoscope at walmart pharmacy area near thermometers ($20), they are the best I've found for reading SMD values and color codes (good white LED for accurate color rendering).
Great thanks. I will order those. Just need to confirm the wattage of the large resistors. 3W?
I'm questioning my previous repair. Can you tell me what the two resistors I have already repaired should be? (by the top four fets above the main inductor) I can't give you the code as they are burnt off the board. I can see I have replaced them with red red black gold black striped resistors, which doesn't seem to correspond to a resistor code. Are they four or five stripe resistors?
I'm questioning my previous repair. Can you tell me what the two resistors I have already repaired should be? (by the top four fets above the main inductor) I can't give you the code as they are burnt off the board. I can see I have replaced them with red red black gold black striped resistors, which doesn't seem to correspond to a resistor code. Are they four or five stripe resistors?
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