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DB drive OKUR A7 2000.1 driver
DB drive OKUR A7 2000.1 driver
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Old 28th September 2017, 05:46 PM   #11
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
It's not a site. It's a tutorial I sell.
...And it is worth it's weight in gold. Even for the folks with more experience, it's not outlandishly expensive, and if nothing else it helps pay a little back to Perry for all of his years of helping pretty much all of us out of one tough problem or another!

Perry, I got the email. Thank you.

Jason
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Old 28th September 2017, 07:22 PM   #12
MarioRestucci is offline MarioRestucci  Italy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
It's not a site. It's a tutorial I sell.
ok, where i can buy this?
if you want, can you tell me how much cost in pm?
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Old 28th September 2017, 07:35 PM   #13
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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$50US

There is a banner for it on the bottom of virtually every page of my car audio site (link in sig file below).

A couple of notes...

It's designed for those relatively new to repairs but has some advanced information.

It's not a video. Anyone buying it will have to do MANY hours of reading.
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Old 1st December 2017, 05:09 PM   #14
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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Hi folks, I am back working on this project again. I replaced the half bridge driver with a new one ordered from Mouser. I replaced the missing diode with STPS4S200UF, a schottky diode rated at 200V and 4A. I also replaced both TL072's. I checked the amp briefly out of the sink. It powered up and produced audio. I fully reassembled and put it on my 100A power supply and hooked it up to the shop sub to do some moderate volume testing. It played for about 5 minutes, then the sub popped and the amp went into protect. The sub is fine, but the amp now has about 22V dc on the output for a brief moment before the protection shuts down the power supply. It very well could be going to full rail voltage before shutdown, but it happens to quickly to capture on the DMM.

Anyhow, I had installed a socket for the driver in case I had more trouble, with the driver board removed the amp powers up fine. In circuit the outputs are checking fine. If I install the driver and check them they all show leakage from gate to drain. I'm guessing something went on the driver board and am looking for advice on what to check first.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 2nd December 2017, 12:16 AM   #15
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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I checked all the resistors, diodes, and the 2 sot23 transistors on the driver board and they all check out good. There is a small diode between the two tl072's that tests shorted while on the board, but I pulled it and it tested fine. I removed the 2184s and the amp powers up with no issue so I swapped the 2184s again thinking it must have shorted. New driver in place and it still goes into protect.

Thanks in advance!
Jason
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Old 2nd December 2017, 12:43 AM   #16
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Using the guide (below) for the 21844, check the resistance for each combination of pins on the 'good' IC you removed and one that's never been installed.

If you get significantly different reasons, the IC may have been damaged when installed.
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File Type: png checkingir21844driverIC01.png (78.6 KB, 29 views)
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Old 2nd December 2017, 02:27 PM   #17
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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Thanks Perry, I tested all the 2184s including the factory defaced one. They all check out good. Further testing shows that the low side fets are seeing about 1V on their gate referenced to source before the amp goes into protect.

I'm going to pull the low side fets and see if any are leaky. Is it normal to have IRF640N in the output stage of these amps? I have fought issues with "N" suffix parts in the past. I try to not use them unless I can confirm that was the factory part.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 2nd December 2017, 02:44 PM   #18
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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I think I have the problem solved. I unclamped the low side fets and the amp powered up normally. I believe I nicked the kapton tape I used for insulation. I cut out that piece and installed sil pads and the amp is working again. I am going to do some more audio testing. Thank you so much for your help!

Jason
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Old 2nd December 2017, 03:13 PM   #19
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Make sure that the heatsink doesn't have any significant noise on it from another bad insulator. The heatsink is only grounded through a small capacitor which may or may not have been able to shut down the amp with a bad insulator.
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Old 2nd December 2017, 03:30 PM   #20
jacampb2 is offline jacampb2  United States
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Nope, not fixed after all. I put a load on it and it went straight into protect again. Tested the half bridge driver and it was blown. I unclamped the fets again and even with a new driver again it still goes into protect. New driver tests fine. I will have to unclamp the high side fets tomorrow and make sure they are ok. I'm probably going to pull all the fets and test individually. I have a stinking suspicion that this ,ay all be symptoms of the 640N parts. Can anyone confirm if they were the original parts?

*edit* I just noticed your reply above Perry. I will try to look at it tomorrow. I had to head back to the house to get the little ones lunch. I'm having some problems with my back and am only able to spend a few hours at a time in the shop. I will have to continue troubleshooting tomorrow. Thank you for your assistance.

Thanks,
Jason

Last edited by jacampb2; 2nd December 2017 at 03:54 PM.
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