It has finally dawned on me that I spend a lot of my life in my car. Far more time each day that I'm able to spend at home listening to music. So have decided to make my crappy commuter car a nice listening experience. But I've never really thought about car audio before so forgive my ignorance.
Since I'm the only person that's ever in my car, I was thinking about building two little pods to house small full range drivers and mount them on the dash on so that the drivers are on axis and symmetric. My eye-o-meter is telling me that o can squeeze about 2.5" without obstructing too much view. Then cross those to stereo sealed subwoofers in the back seat. Probably about 200-300hz. Obviously the lower the better, but I can't imagine I'd be able to squeeze much lower out of them without too much distortion. Listening levels are generally pretty low, not trying to impress anyone here.. If that ends up sounding funky, I could cross at the same frequency to new speakers in the doors and then make it three way crossing lower down to wooofers, just adds cost which I'd rather avoid . Was going to control this all with mini-dsp.
Thoughts? Is this stupid? Should I just buy some off the shelf coaxials stick them in the doors and call it done? (The car has 6.5 in the door and tweeters on the dash. I can't figure out why I'd want to replicate this, so figured coaxials in the door wouldn't be a better choice.). Thanks!!
Since I'm the only person that's ever in my car, I was thinking about building two little pods to house small full range drivers and mount them on the dash on so that the drivers are on axis and symmetric. My eye-o-meter is telling me that o can squeeze about 2.5" without obstructing too much view. Then cross those to stereo sealed subwoofers in the back seat. Probably about 200-300hz. Obviously the lower the better, but I can't imagine I'd be able to squeeze much lower out of them without too much distortion. Listening levels are generally pretty low, not trying to impress anyone here.. If that ends up sounding funky, I could cross at the same frequency to new speakers in the doors and then make it three way crossing lower down to wooofers, just adds cost which I'd rather avoid . Was going to control this all with mini-dsp.
Thoughts? Is this stupid? Should I just buy some off the shelf coaxials stick them in the doors and call it done? (The car has 6.5 in the door and tweeters on the dash. I can't figure out why I'd want to replicate this, so figured coaxials in the door wouldn't be a better choice.). Thanks!!
I am into the car audio hobby.
You do not need much to get a good sounding car.
what is your budget.
I would suggest a sound processor for the car. One that would be able to handle time alignment, equalization, and crossover processing.
Next would be amplification. One separate channel for each driver.
Pods for full ranges can work well.
A set of mid bass drivers in the doors.
And a single sub is sufficient.
I have been using Audible Physics RAM 2.6 component set for the past year and like them a lot.
https://www.slaacoustics.com/collections/frontpage/products/ram-2-6-active-2-way-component-set
You do not need much to get a good sounding car.
what is your budget.
I would suggest a sound processor for the car. One that would be able to handle time alignment, equalization, and crossover processing.
Next would be amplification. One separate channel for each driver.
Pods for full ranges can work well.
A set of mid bass drivers in the doors.
And a single sub is sufficient.
I have been using Audible Physics RAM 2.6 component set for the past year and like them a lot.
https://www.slaacoustics.com/collections/frontpage/products/ram-2-6-active-2-way-component-set
not sure about crossing them to the rear. the pod idea is fine, but i would put the woofers in the door, then run some nice 2-way in the rears. the rears is where you usually carry most of your power, and the front stage gives you the bulk of presence, usually at a little lower load. remember when you design your arena, that these sources are essentially in your bubble space, unlike your home system, which give you several feet to manipulate the sound. the front stage is quite important to develop your presence, but do not dicount the importance of giving distance for the lows to mature into a good sound, and that is where you spend the power on the rear stage, otherwise, you would find yourself in the middle of a developing wave, which is experienced as mostly a dead space. having the low-mid to mid firing from the front doors will converge the volume near you, but you wouldn't notice it unless you were missing it. take a look at factory systems, especially general motors systems. as basic as they may look, there are things they do to squeeze output out of them. most often, its the way they load off the glass, and utilize class a power that isn't seen as much as the other arrangements. i would put the 2.5 pods right at the bottom of the a pillars, and think about a nice sq 4, 5, 6 channel amp to run it all.... but a real nice head can do well, as well. i just wouldn't cross the front and rear speakers to one channel.
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