I would like to replace the electrolytic (bi-polar) crossover capacitors on my coaxial car speakers with a better grade of caps. I'm certain this would improve the sound of the tweeters noticably.
I have 4x6 2-way and 6x9 3-way Polks. The original capacitors are accessible though they are very small. But physically this project is do-able.
However, my concern is that heat from the soldering iron may damage the very fine (small gauge) wiring in the voice coil of the tweeters.
Has anyone here ever tried this before? If so did the tweeters survive the soldering process? Any other unexpected problems?
Thanks in advance...
I have 4x6 2-way and 6x9 3-way Polks. The original capacitors are accessible though they are very small. But physically this project is do-able.
However, my concern is that heat from the soldering iron may damage the very fine (small gauge) wiring in the voice coil of the tweeters.
Has anyone here ever tried this before? If so did the tweeters survive the soldering process? Any other unexpected problems?
Thanks in advance...
Just snip it and solder on the new cap. Make sure to leave it some cool time when soldering, that's a general rule for all soldering. Depending on how hot the iron is, 2-3 seconds at a time is fine. Works for ICs that I solder and such so, caps and such are usually more foregiving.
Anyhow, I hope you hear improvements and not just "think" the improvements.
Anyhow, I hope you hear improvements and not just "think" the improvements.
Re: Re: replacing electrolytic caps on coaxial drivers
X2 -
Further, same value films are quite a bit larger than the electrolytics. It could be tough to make them fit w/ the acreage you have.
Also, the ESR of a film cap over the elctrolytic will likely be lower therefore the tweeter will play louder. That gain may be enough to change the voicing of the speaker to the worse.
You'd notice it as a lessening of relative bass output or increased brightness. You might also like the result too.
speaker
maylar said:
X2 -
Further, same value films are quite a bit larger than the electrolytics. It could be tough to make them fit w/ the acreage you have.
Also, the ESR of a film cap over the elctrolytic will likely be lower therefore the tweeter will play louder. That gain may be enough to change the voicing of the speaker to the worse.
You'd notice it as a lessening of relative bass output or increased brightness. You might also like the result too.
speaker
Re: Re: Re: replacing electrolytic caps on coaxial drivers
speaker, sure you mean well but i am aware of all that you mention...
my question was whether anyone had done this procedure and whether there were any problems realating to damage to the tweeter voice coils, that's all
maylar, have you ever replaced electrolytics on coxials? if so then you input is relevant, otherwise please don't question my judgement just because i am new to this board
speaker said:
speaker, sure you mean well but i am aware of all that you mention...
my question was whether anyone had done this procedure and whether there were any problems realating to damage to the tweeter voice coils, that's all
maylar, have you ever replaced electrolytics on coxials? if so then you input is relevant, otherwise please don't question my judgement just because i am new to this board
Re: Re: Re: Re: replacing electrolytic caps on coaxial drivers
Why thank you!
Most car audio tweeters terminate the VC lead-outs mechanically first then by solder on carrier terminals. In other words, you should be fine. Once the solder melts, the coil wire will stay in position.
speaker
roger2 said:
Why thank you!
Most car audio tweeters terminate the VC lead-outs mechanically first then by solder on carrier terminals. In other words, you should be fine. Once the solder melts, the coil wire will stay in position.
speaker
speaker,
thanks for your input regarding the soldering
the points from your previous post were appreciated too...
RE: the ESR difference, i would like a bit more treble though I don't expect much of a gain there. the EQ on my HU is dirty (yes i can hear distortion in it for any doubters out there) so i leave it flat even though a small boost in the high end would be nice
RE: your point about limited space . i will be using mylar caps because i have some on hand of the appropriate values. these caps are not as large as other types though they are much, much larger than the miniscule electrolytics used on car speakers. i have (had) already checked to see that i do have enough space to glue them to the sides of the magnets of the drivers
the speakers are out of the car right now because i am installing an amp and speaker wires and also screwing'n'gluing plywood to the rear deck and the sheet metal between the trunk and rear seat (these metal panels are thin and very resonant at low frequencies). so since the speakers are out now and i have the extra caps on hand...
thanks for your input regarding the soldering
the points from your previous post were appreciated too...
RE: the ESR difference, i would like a bit more treble though I don't expect much of a gain there. the EQ on my HU is dirty (yes i can hear distortion in it for any doubters out there) so i leave it flat even though a small boost in the high end would be nice
RE: your point about limited space . i will be using mylar caps because i have some on hand of the appropriate values. these caps are not as large as other types though they are much, much larger than the miniscule electrolytics used on car speakers. i have (had) already checked to see that i do have enough space to glue them to the sides of the magnets of the drivers
the speakers are out of the car right now because i am installing an amp and speaker wires and also screwing'n'gluing plywood to the rear deck and the sheet metal between the trunk and rear seat (these metal panels are thin and very resonant at low frequencies). so since the speakers are out now and i have the extra caps on hand...
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