.... would necessarily be completely IB cause I'd try to seal it the best I could and use the entire hatch area as an enclosure and then I could really huve HUGE long ports. This would amount to roughly 14 cubic foot from what I read is the storage space of a c5 Corvette. I'd have to make a portion of the setup plexiglass (but probably not the area where the woofers would mount for $ sake) so I could still be able to see out of the rear window.
I measured enough height for 15" woofers. I may be able to squeeze 3 of them in but that may obstruct my view, so probably the max would be 2.
I see the advantages of doing this would be- weight distribution, the subs would sit almost at the exact center of the car. Also, with a baffle now in the hatch area, it will significantly cut down on road noise from the rear section of the car. Third, with only one board that too will cut down on the weight.
Course I'd have to get my windows tinted as the woofers would be in plain and clear view, and I have no clue how it would sound either. Thoughts??
I measured enough height for 15" woofers. I may be able to squeeze 3 of them in but that may obstruct my view, so probably the max would be 2.
I see the advantages of doing this would be- weight distribution, the subs would sit almost at the exact center of the car. Also, with a baffle now in the hatch area, it will significantly cut down on road noise from the rear section of the car. Third, with only one board that too will cut down on the weight.
Course I'd have to get my windows tinted as the woofers would be in plain and clear view, and I have no clue how it would sound either. Thoughts??
what kind of power?
what kind of woffers?
a speaker wall in a vette.why????
you know that if you run 1000 watt amps into the 15`s
in the right box.your main problem will be how your going to keep the windsheild from blowing losse from it sealer.not to say what it will do to your ears.
with the inside volume of a vette you would get better results from 8`s or 10`s tops.insead of a wall i`d say a box fireing into the rear,would produce more bass and give better cone movement control(less distortion).
if you want a db dragger get a wagon or van.
vettes are for driven`.put in a good listen system(in the 130-140db range) put your foot to the floor and enjoy.
what kind of woffers?
a speaker wall in a vette.why????
you know that if you run 1000 watt amps into the 15`s
in the right box.your main problem will be how your going to keep the windsheild from blowing losse from it sealer.not to say what it will do to your ears.
with the inside volume of a vette you would get better results from 8`s or 10`s tops.insead of a wall i`d say a box fireing into the rear,would produce more bass and give better cone movement control(less distortion).
if you want a db dragger get a wagon or van.
vettes are for driven`.put in a good listen system(in the 130-140db range) put your foot to the floor and enjoy.
offroadbum said:
Power, 1000 watts per woofer. Woofers- these http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-665
speaker wall in corvette, why? - when one asks why, I ask why not. Its obviously never been done before (or has it? most vette owners {not me though } have money and Ive seen some insane setups)
I was looking at the setup and making a wall (and sealing) it for this car should not be that hard. The opening isnt that large and theres minimal "stuff" to get in the way (wires, torsion bars like a car's trunk etc) . The shape is also very easy too. Theres only one carpet and its flat, so that would be a breeze.
As for a box, I was trying to avoid a box cause it would be heavy (although this wall with 2 of those woofers will be around 80 lbs, itll be in the center of the car and shouldnt affect handling that much). I also wont loose any storage space this way either.
hearing- well I dont drive around with it all the time blasting. If need be ill put on some ear plugs.
Hi Eric. I've thumbed through a few of your posts in the past, and I gave you more credit than to resort to a wall. In a Vette!
But if that's the route you choose, who am I to argue? Those PE woofers do look tempting, I've considered them myself. But for a moment... clear your mind, think of the enclosure, and look at these bland ol' Dayton 15's:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-455&ctab=1
Yeah, they're 8 ohm. But with a kilowatt, do you really think that'll be a big deal? Fs at 20Hz is an octave lower, and Qts is a higher 0.65 more suitable for IB. Those two parameters *could* (I've done no calculations) increase the efficiency in the 30-50Hz region enough to make up the 8ohm power deficiency.
Food for thought anyway. Not to mention the Daytons are lighter weight.
As a side note, I'd suggest laminating a dense foam core with MDF on both sides for a stiff baffle. At that power level, some structural braces may be in order as well.
Tim Smith
But if that's the route you choose, who am I to argue? Those PE woofers do look tempting, I've considered them myself. But for a moment... clear your mind, think of the enclosure, and look at these bland ol' Dayton 15's:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-455&ctab=1
Yeah, they're 8 ohm. But with a kilowatt, do you really think that'll be a big deal? Fs at 20Hz is an octave lower, and Qts is a higher 0.65 more suitable for IB. Those two parameters *could* (I've done no calculations) increase the efficiency in the 30-50Hz region enough to make up the 8ohm power deficiency.
Food for thought anyway. Not to mention the Daytons are lighter weight.
As a side note, I'd suggest laminating a dense foam core with MDF on both sides for a stiff baffle. At that power level, some structural braces may be in order as well.
Tim Smith
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