I recently bought an Audiobahn A12001D class-D amp and 2 Audiobahn ALUM12Q subs. I also have a Audiobahn A4004T 4 channel intake amplifier.
Any how, the subs are wired down to 1.5ohm (amp pushes 1200W RMS at 1 ohm)
I have a 4awg wire from the battery, about 12 feet of it to a distribution block with 2 platinum 60AMP fuses. Then I have 2 8awg wires going to each amp.
The ground distribution block is connected to a screw that goes into the main chasis.
The problem that I am having is, the amp constantly goes into protection mode and it does not leave it. It went into protection the very first time I hooked it up (new out of the box). Then I unscrewed it from the car, shook it around and such, and it magically started working. Later on that day I was driving and one part of the song hit really hard and it went into protection mode again. I could not get it to leave the protection mode for hours on end. I thought it was a thermal issue, it's not. I've double and trippled checked all wires, they do not cross.
Here is the volt reading from the amp:
http://www.plus-labs.com/misc/01.jpg
As you can see, it is getting an ample voltage. There is no capacitor though.
The other night it kicked out on me when I started the car up, an the bass hit, it went into protection two seconds later. I had the rear seat folded down and I was driving and I got so mad that I turned around and wacked the amp with my fist, and bam, it turned on!
Then later on I was listening to some more heavy bass, and it kicked out again.
Does any one have any clue what is wrong with this thing?
I've emailed Audiobahn and they said check the ground... but the other amp works flawless... so I don't know what could be wrong.
Any suggestions?
Any how, the subs are wired down to 1.5ohm (amp pushes 1200W RMS at 1 ohm)
I have a 4awg wire from the battery, about 12 feet of it to a distribution block with 2 platinum 60AMP fuses. Then I have 2 8awg wires going to each amp.
The ground distribution block is connected to a screw that goes into the main chasis.
The problem that I am having is, the amp constantly goes into protection mode and it does not leave it. It went into protection the very first time I hooked it up (new out of the box). Then I unscrewed it from the car, shook it around and such, and it magically started working. Later on that day I was driving and one part of the song hit really hard and it went into protection mode again. I could not get it to leave the protection mode for hours on end. I thought it was a thermal issue, it's not. I've double and trippled checked all wires, they do not cross.
Here is the volt reading from the amp:
http://www.plus-labs.com/misc/01.jpg
As you can see, it is getting an ample voltage. There is no capacitor though.
The other night it kicked out on me when I started the car up, an the bass hit, it went into protection two seconds later. I had the rear seat folded down and I was driving and I got so mad that I turned around and wacked the amp with my fist, and bam, it turned on!
Then later on I was listening to some more heavy bass, and it kicked out again.
Does any one have any clue what is wrong with this thing?
I've emailed Audiobahn and they said check the ground... but the other amp works flawless... so I don't know what could be wrong.
Any suggestions?
open it up!!
first check the ground....check all your hookups,just to make sure you don`t overlook something easy.
if you find nothing out of sorts...
open up the amp,and look for broken solder joints loose caps.,broken leg on transistor.
but it sounds like somthing has came loose or just wasn`t soldered good to start with this happens more than it should,but thats mass production for ya.
well try all that and let me know.
first check the ground....check all your hookups,just to make sure you don`t overlook something easy.
if you find nothing out of sorts...
open up the amp,and look for broken solder joints loose caps.,broken leg on transistor.
but it sounds like somthing has came loose or just wasn`t soldered good to start with this happens more than it should,but thats mass production for ya.
well try all that and let me know.
You may want to check the connection and overall impedance of your subs. Are you SURE they are wired together to give you 1.5 Ohms? Try measuring the impedance with a multimeter (this will give you the DC resistance). If you read something below 1 Ohm, there's your answer. Try wiring them differently so you get a higher overall impedance.
Check for frayed wires at your power and output terminals, as well as at your sub box. It only takes one stray strand to make an intermittant short.
FYI: Amps go into protection for two reasons: overheating or overcurrent.
Hope this helps...
Check for frayed wires at your power and output terminals, as well as at your sub box. It only takes one stray strand to make an intermittant short.
FYI: Amps go into protection for two reasons: overheating or overcurrent.
Hope this helps...
'Portection' <- Ala THUMP Amps
And undervoltage...
The update/refresh time on the blue panel meter is 0.5 seconds. What if the voltage drops for 250mS to 10.8V? Well, any big amplifier can't "hang on" to low voltage supplies for very long. The end result, if left unchecked, are fried PS MosFets.
But, you're hitting the amplifier to make it come back on. Lifting the cover isn't telling you anything about cold solder connections. You're sending it back in, no questions asked.
Otherwise, PLEASE tell me you didn't mount the amp directly to the car chassis. Mount it to a chunk of wood which is mounted to the chassis. There are these things called parasitic charge currents which will flow in and out of the power supply protection comparator if it sees Chassis/Signal ground and Power supply ground at different voltage levels. It's all pretty technical, but trust me on this.
And undervoltage...
The update/refresh time on the blue panel meter is 0.5 seconds. What if the voltage drops for 250mS to 10.8V? Well, any big amplifier can't "hang on" to low voltage supplies for very long. The end result, if left unchecked, are fried PS MosFets.
But, you're hitting the amplifier to make it come back on. Lifting the cover isn't telling you anything about cold solder connections. You're sending it back in, no questions asked.
Otherwise, PLEASE tell me you didn't mount the amp directly to the car chassis. Mount it to a chunk of wood which is mounted to the chassis. There are these things called parasitic charge currents which will flow in and out of the power supply protection comparator if it sees Chassis/Signal ground and Power supply ground at different voltage levels. It's all pretty technical, but trust me on this.
Me Too....
I have this same problem. I even have the a4004t and it works great with my system.
I went at the problem with a multimeter, and all of the numbers look fine EXCEPT there seemed to be about 4 volts coming out of the ground of the amp when the car was off, so I'm thinking there is a short in the amp. This is not normal, right?
I can't find any info on the a12001D anywhere, just the a12001DT and DQ.
Did you end up sending yours back?
I have this same problem. I even have the a4004t and it works great with my system.
I went at the problem with a multimeter, and all of the numbers look fine EXCEPT there seemed to be about 4 volts coming out of the ground of the amp when the car was off, so I'm thinking there is a short in the amp. This is not normal, right?
I can't find any info on the a12001D anywhere, just the a12001DT and DQ.
Did you end up sending yours back?
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