Rockford Fosgate T20001bd Part

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I have a T20001bd amp that the fuse terminal (J7) has overheated and desoldered from the board. Unfortunately the terminal block will not take solder as it appears its plating has been burned off from overheating. Was hoping someone might have a tip or trick to getting these things back into a condition to be soldered or has a source to purchasing them.
 
Without knowing your amp repair background, I must ask what kind of solder are you using?

How many watts is the iron being used for the terminal repair?

I have used a bench grinder with a wire wheel and cleaned all the discolored and corroded impurities from the terminal. Wash it good in acetone or similar. Lightly tin the terminal with solder. Don't use much or it wont sit properly on the board.

I have to use 2 irons sometimes repairing large terminals. They dissipate heat quickly. I have used a large heat gun as well. Use plenty of flux as it will help and can always be cleaned from the board later when the repair is complete.

Rockford no longer sells internal parts for amplifiers, so your outta luck there. I believe they used the same power terminal from the T5002 all the to the t40001bd. You could always buy a broken smaller amp on ebay and scavenge the terminal.
 
I've got a 60 watt iron with a large blunt tip and some additional help of hot air to heat it to a suitable temp that it would melt the solder. I hit the bottom edge of the terminal with a SS wire brush cleaned it up and used 91% alcohol afterwards to get any remaining wire brushing dust/debis off of it. The solder is a 60/40 rosin core standard solder. It just doesn't seem to wet with the solder... it just sits on top of it like a bad solder tip, no wetting action at all.

So with enough heat and flux the solder should wet it?
 
It should yes.

If the terminal is not getting hot enough to melt solder itself than the solder it likely won't stick to it.

The last one I did I used 2 irons. I put a small amount of solder on the board, just enough to fill the holes in the board. I tightened the set screw from the terminal onto a soldering iron then turned it on. I rested it lightly on the board aligning the protrusions from the terminal to the holes on the board. I then used another iron to start heating the solder I previously put on the board. When the terminal was hot enough and the solder on the board was hot enough it went right into place. While everything was hot I applied more solder to the bottom of the board. When I was happy with how it looked I unplugged both irons while still holding in place. I then blew on the terminal a little to cool down until the solder hardened.

Be careful not to get the board to hot especially with the heat gun as the coating will bubble up and the pad could lift.

You can get the solder to melt fairly easily, but if the terminal is to cold the solder won't stick to it.
 
well, I thought not having enough heat was the issue.... the terminal was definitely warm enough to readily melt the solder, but still gave no wetting action, it would just sit in a molten ball not adhering to the terminal. at one point it did get hot enough it was starting to stick to the area between the pins, but not flowing like solder typically does. Long story short , I need to find a donor terminal now... I got carried away with the heat, it never did flow onto the pins though. I used a SS wire wheel to make sure the area was nice and clean and used acetone as suggested afterwards.
 
I've successfully destroyed the original. I was going to go that route originally but it sounded like more heat would get me where I needed to be. By the time I realized it the damage was done. The solder did somewhat adhere in some locations but that's apparently because the block was right near it's melting point.
 
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