Rockford Fosgate Punch 45HD

I have more broken amps than working amps so it's time to try to fix them. I think this one might be the easiest to fix.

I can't remember what the symptoms were but it started obviously not sounding right. When I picked it up I heard a rattle. I opened it and a tiny cap was loose.

Anyway, on this small board these tiny caps (circled in red) have come off (this isn't my pic but I took it and highlighted the caps, as they are not there on mine).

The contact points on the board don't even look metal. I'm looking for guidance before I try anything because I don't want to screw this up. Can I just try to solder the caps back on? I'm not sure I can even do it, it's so tight in there. Thanks for any input you may have. I'd like to save this amp, if possible.

I went and took a pic of mine and attached it also.

edit: Just ran across a video and learned some new information. That board is the HBPIM board. Any idea where I could get a replacement of that?
 

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That board may be repairable but it would be better to replace it if the amp is worth the cost of a new board.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/269608-rockford-hd-amplifier-pim-preamp-input-modules.html


Thanks. I might be willing to pay that although it's a really steep price for that tiny board.

Someone in that thread suggests those caps leak and that's what causes the issue, is that correct? They have a 10 on top of 16v. If I try to fix the board I guess I should replace them, you think? Does the 10 mean 10uf?
 
All darkened traces and pads are damaged. To repair the board, you would have to jump the damaged traces with wire. The problem is that not all traces go to points that can accept solder.

Yes. 10uF 16v.


Is there any specific type that would be best suited for this application? I was just going to get an electrolytic.

What about a tolerance? I don't want to skimp a few cents if that would negatively affect SQ.

Thanks for all your replies Perry. I'm planning to have a go at it myself but I'm also contacting Freeman's.
 
The contact points on the board don't even look metal. I'm looking for guidance before I try anything because I don't want to screw this up. Can I just try to solder the caps back on? I'm not sure I can even do it, it's so tight in there. Thanks for any input you may have. I'd like to save this amp, if possible.
silver solder? do a few continuity checks to insure darkened traces are indeed open. It looks OK cept some wear.
http://yadda.icm.edu.pl/yadda/eleme..._plartme20nr201-22006me1-22006achmatowicz.pdf
 
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Your board looks like a goner, even the op amp's solder joints look crummy. Best bet would be to purchase that board new. All those dark short traces are film resistors, if someone had a schematic for that board then may be someone could make a few but I honestly don't see them priced for any less than 30.00 for custom made ones so might as well go with the new ones.

Main reason I stay away from the HD but there are others that 1moreamp already mentioned in other threads.
 
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Yeah, it's a goner. I am going to move on to other amps I have for now and come back to this when I feel like ordering the board. I thought more highly of the HD amps but apparently they are just not quite built as well as I thought they were. Apparently the slightly older ones were a bit more solid. Thanks for the help. I'll re-post in here after I address it.