Yeah They improved but i checked the schematic and its the only weak link still in the diagram so those would be my first suspect. If they aren't I would be surprised. Let me know how this works out for you....
Thank you gents,
There are no noises or pops when switching to LP mode.
I opened the case and sprayed contact cleaner on all the crossover pots and on all the switches. Turned all the pots up and down and switches back and forth many times with no change.
Switches work in FR and HP just nothing on LP.
There are no noises or pops when switching to LP mode.
I opened the case and sprayed contact cleaner on all the crossover pots and on all the switches. Turned all the pots up and down and switches back and forth many times with no change.
Switches work in FR and HP just nothing on LP.
Well Perry said check the op-amps for DC voltage on any of the audio pins, and he is correct the DC voltage present is dead give away of op-amps failure. So you should be on to his instructions at this point as its the best next avenue to check out...This amp is fairly simple and the sub crossover isn't anything special... So look for some DC voltage on the op-amps U106 and U107...
Oh wait a minute this amp has an Airbass switch, have you tried it in both positions? In one position it breaks the bass circuit for a wireless remote control to be added, and if its in the wrong position you get no bass ????
Bass is also summed off channels three and four inputs in my diagram so those inputs have to have signal also.
Entire bass circuitry is u106 and u107 both TLO-74 devices, and switch 104 and 107 for airbass, and pots Vr107 and Vr108. The rest are solid passive components <resistors and capacitors >
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