Ok, Cleared up some solder and I've no longer got the issue of going into protect with the audio driver board out.
Replaced Q11, Q7, Q19 and Q22. 2 of them had failed so I replaced them all.
Checked the rest of the transistors on the board and they all appeared to Check OK once removed from the board.
Prior to removing the driver board the amp would not go into protect but there was also no rail to rail oscillation either, the 9640's would just heat rapidly on both banks. Since replacing the small 1D transistors the amp goes straight into protect when the driver board is installed.
Any advice on what to check next?
Replaced Q11, Q7, Q19 and Q22. 2 of them had failed so I replaced them all.
Checked the rest of the transistors on the board and they all appeared to Check OK once removed from the board.
Prior to removing the driver board the amp would not go into protect but there was also no rail to rail oscillation either, the 9640's would just heat rapidly on both banks. Since replacing the small 1D transistors the amp goes straight into protect when the driver board is installed.
Any advice on what to check next?
Are all of the 470 ohm resistors near the transistors you replaced within tolerance?
Have you cleaned up all of your solder connections so that you could confirm that you had no bridges and no bad connections?
Did you possibly pull any vias when you removed the driver board?
Have you cleaned up all of your solder connections so that you could confirm that you had no bridges and no bad connections?
Did you possibly pull any vias when you removed the driver board?
All of the 470ohm resistors are within tolerance most being right around 469Ohms. I went back and verified all of my solder using a 10x eye loupe and there are no visible bridges. There were no traces of via on the pins when I removed the driver board I'll meter the connections to make sure everything is as it should be. I guess there is a chance that whoever was in this amp prior could have damaged them but the solder appeared factory at this location.
Q5, Q6, Q9, Q12 and Q16, Q20, Q21, Q23 warm up quickly right before the amp goes into protect.
Update- all thru holes meter ok
Q5, Q6, Q9, Q12 and Q16, Q20, Q21, Q23 warm up quickly right before the amp goes into protect.
Update- all thru holes meter ok
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Ok, I pulled them all out of the board and checked them per the tutorial they all seem fine. I did however just noticed that I managed to purchase 640N's instead of 640's. And I have discovered the speaker out put jumps up to the positive rail voltage just prior to the amp going into protect.
It could be either one. The TL072 is the one responsible for minimizing the DC offset but if the LM211 is defective, the signal from the TL072 can't make it to the drive IC.
The square wave should probably have an amplitude of 6v p-p. Not sure, never measured it at that point.
The square wave should probably have an amplitude of 6v p-p. Not sure, never measured it at that point.
ok, driving a 60hz signal into the amp pin 12 on the driver board which I'm guessing to be the audio pin is only showing the top half of the audio signal coming in, I'm checking for voltages on the opamps at the input of the amplifier now. I don't recall this being an issue when I first looked at the voltages present on pins 1-22. Also, No dc pulses on any of the transistors on the drive board.
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