Hey all, new here. Over the summer I finally decided to out in a little "system" added into my audi's bose system with pioneer did deck. Sounded great. But got addicted to the vibration. I started small with a 8inch infinity and boss 1100 Mosfet (super shitty but cheap). Then my buddy gave me a dual 4ohm 12inch type r in a .8 sealed box. And I was amazed as it was a he'll of a upgrade, but now I want more. I do alot with my car so don't want to go any bigger with a box. I'm planning on mounting a "audi" stealth box under the deck so I have more room for bike wheels.
So, to the point. I just came to realization how shitty my amp is, I've done numbers and currently wired at 8 ohm, I'm doing like 75w rms. So I'm looking for a new amp. My buddy will sell me his old amp for 60, a Kenwood kac929 and another friend will sell me his pioneer 760w for 40. What should I go with or any other amps, like to stay under a hundred. Also, how about a capacitor? When I turn it up really loud my bass gets delayed and very VERY shitty. I'm thinking the shitty is from the shitty amp.
Thanks all, I know it's long.
So, to the point. I just came to realization how shitty my amp is, I've done numbers and currently wired at 8 ohm, I'm doing like 75w rms. So I'm looking for a new amp. My buddy will sell me his old amp for 60, a Kenwood kac929 and another friend will sell me his pioneer 760w for 40. What should I go with or any other amps, like to stay under a hundred. Also, how about a capacitor? When I turn it up really loud my bass gets delayed and very VERY shitty. I'm thinking the shitty is from the shitty amp.
Thanks all, I know it's long.
Would you be willing to spend a bit more than $100?
Don't waste your money on a capacitor.
You may have to upgrade your wiring for a larger amp.
I've never seen this particular model but the Hifonics are generally decent amps. I've dealt with the following seller and didn't have any problems. You can read reviews on this amp at Amazon.
Hifonics ZRX1200 1D 1200W Max Hifonics ZRX1200 1D 120D Monoblock Zeus Series Amp | eBay
Don't waste your money on a capacitor.
You may have to upgrade your wiring for a larger amp.
I've never seen this particular model but the Hifonics are generally decent amps. I've dealt with the following seller and didn't have any problems. You can read reviews on this amp at Amazon.
Hifonics ZRX1200 1D 1200W Max Hifonics ZRX1200 1D 120D Monoblock Zeus Series Amp | eBay
I would if it would be noticeably better. I'm just trying not to "bottle neck" the sub with a cheap amp. I was leaning with the Kenwood, but if the hifonics Is that much better on just my one sub, I'll might consider Going that route. So, is it worth paying double?
With the Kenwood. In series is how it is currently wired, at 8ohms. So bridged and at 8ohms or 2 channel at 4 ohm?
With the Kenwood. In series is how it is currently wired, at 8ohms. So bridged and at 8ohms or 2 channel at 4 ohm?
Hi AK,
I'm not quite sure what you're hoping to accomplish here, but one thing I do know is that whatever it is... "you've got to focus." You said an awful lot in your post but there is no clear goal or objective, for instance... You've indicated that someone gave you an Alpine type R 12" sub. These subs are GREAT! But they're rated at 750 watts RMS 'continuous sinewave' and will require more than 100 watts Minimum to properly drive/control them, "how do I know"... it's the same thing I use, but rather, in their 15 inch component.
I believe you also had intended to add/mount an Audi Stealthbox "under the deck"?? When we introduce more than one low frequency driver having dissimilar low frequency operating parameters in the same listening area and same freq range, what we usually create is not more bass, but rather a listening environment that's riddled with phase anomalies which will actually cancel 'or accentuate' a great deal of your fundamentals; and make it impossible to correct the room! Rule is: Match ALL of your drivers in every range of the system; whether it be a 2 way, 3 way, or four, match your components (No mix-&-match)!
I'm not trying to discourage you AK, but rather, prevent you from starting a sound system project that could have worked a lot better if you would have seen the pitfalls before you started! Okay, just one more thing and I'll leave you alone hahaha, lol! It's your $$ cap! My theory is... if I'm going to do anything, just do it right. So then I have to use the right equipment to start with. Audio systems aren't cheap; particularly "High-end" audio systems, the one's with good SQ (sound quality) and I think that's what you want based on the way you shared your excitement in your original post. To limit your budget to $100 dollars for a car audio project... (imho) that money would be much better spent taking your wife/GF out for a great dinner instead. "Don't compromise" You already have a great sub (750 watts rms). Get a great amp to drive it and you will hear the difference!
Best to you, and Rgds!
Thanks! This is what I was hoping for on this forum. My money cap can go up, I'd just rather it not, and I'm fine with buying used to stay under. I have a "good" sound to me now, but I know the sub can do more, and this is more of a, "because I can project".
The stealth box is a thing jl made that had 2 tens and mounted under the rear deck so you still had the whole bottom of the trunk open, so I was going to do a fiberglass custom box to mount there.
My mids and highs are all the factory bose "engineered" component stuff,and there fine for now, no distortion at all unless really high up and your an audiophile.
I'm willing to get whatever amp will make the most out of my one sub, swr-1241d. The 2 I listed are the ones I can get used and cheap from friends. But if there is a sub that is that much better and still reasonable, I would consider it. I am currently leaning towards the Kenwood.
So, my goals are better amp and in the spring, better box.
That's a really good starting point! It means that this system can 'potentially' become the best system that you've ever built!
Again, I have the uttermost respect for Alpine 'Type R' subs. They are engineered to work properly in a sealed box with a minimal volume of air requirement. It has a highly sensitive moving system, will take an incredible amount of punishment and still remain clean and musical. Something to be aware of though, w/ super resilient drivers like this, the manufacturer recommends that an amp with no less than 250 watts be used to drive it.
This is because a low frequency reproducer like this one requires a great deal of power to generate the low freq wave-front needed at 20 cps... "in a sealed enclosure". So for this speaker to do what it's manufacturer boasts it will do, it will need about 250 watts minimum to reach the excursion for a full low freq spectrum! Also, you mentioned getting some used (sorry... "previously owned" haha) gear to build your system. Not a thing wrong w/that; that's where some of the best deals are; you just have to do your homework regarding the age/condition of the equipment being sold, and be patient as to finding the very best price.
I have nothing against "Kenwood" or "Pioneer", it's just that I'm unfamiliar/uneducated regarding them... I've never heard anything bad about them though! I do however, really like Alpine PDX-M6 and M12 and JL Audio HD-750/1 and HD-1200/1 mono-block amplifiers. Here's a couple of Alpine PDX-M6, M12's on ebay today, prices seem pretty good take a look:
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. ...And here's one for sale on ebay:
Alpine PDX M6 600 Watt RMS Digital Car Amplifier Brand New Warranty PDXM6 793276301024 | eBay
rigtec, cheers!
Okay, now, that's too much. I'd rather put that money in my suspension.. So, back to the other 2. The guy that has the pioneer has it on 2 12inch jl audios and it's loud and I haven't sat in it so not sure on quality. I'm leaning with the Kenwood. It doesn't look great, it's scratched, but specs seem alot better, the only thing is I can't find much info on it, mainly if it's 2ohm stable when bridged. The specs I've found are:
150w rms x2 at 4
290w rms x2 at 2
460w rms x1 bridged at 4
With that, what would be optimal way to wire it?
150w rms x2 at 4
290w rms x2 at 2
460w rms x1 bridged at 4
With that, what would be optimal way to wire it?
Can you explain the concept behind that, how the amp sees a 4ohm load when it is 8ohms?
It doesn’t, it will see the 8-ohm load.
Just wire one voice coil per channel if it is easy enough to do… Simple to do with less chance of mistakes.
He is confusing each channel of the amp when bridged as seeing half the impedance, so “each” channel (again note: “each channel”) will essentially see 4-ohms, but that is the exact same thing as wiring one voice coil per channel as Perry Babin suggested; still can’t get max power from that amplifier unless you go to a 2-ohm DVC sub.
However, bridging may make wiring slightly easy as you only need to run one wire to the box, then smaller jumper wire on the sub putting the coils in series. But if your not familiar with series wiring you could make a mistake trying this.
Note that I didn’t read the whole thread, only that Perry said the amp is not 2 ohm stable while bridged and prls’s post. Disregard my post if I missed something important…
Yes, Perry’s websites are fantastic and quite detailed, please take the time to read them well and absorb what is being said, if anything confuses you asking here about specifics may help. Perry has put a lot of time into those sites and I think too many people skim them and miss out on real information. I've learned a lot from his sites and his repair tutorial over the years.
Okay, we just tested the Kenwood on my system, bridged with sub in series (8 ohm), it's has a hell of alot more hit, but it's not as clean as the shitty little boos, the boss seems warmer, it's clean and goes well with the bose until I turn it up and it just goes to ****. The Kenwood just seems to make a hard punch with power but not clean. Then when I get it clean it has less punch than the boss. Is this my power wiring? Currently have 6gage as that's all the boss needed.
Hi AK,
I guess you didn't give very much thought to my advice regarding the sub-woofer's (Minimum) 'Operational Power Requirement'. Seventy five watts barely generates enough acoustic energy to create 'nominal level' midbass in a car audio application. Most people use the words... 'Subwoofer' and 'Bass Speaker' interchangeably; "mistakenly" believing that they are both the very same thing. However, just a glance at both of their resumes' (or job descriptions) and you would quickly agree that... They are not!
The problem that you're facing now isn't a result of power supply cable undersizing; even a smaller 8ga feed line would be suitable to deliver a 40A power supply. The problem that this system is seeing now is a result of an Underpowered, Overdriven power amplifier which causes a particular type of destructive IM and THD distortion.
AK... Please pardon me for saying... I think you're at a crossroads. On the one hand I think you would like to have a very nice system to enjoy. OTOH, you're not selecting the equipment needed to build the system that you want; you are allowing the equipment to choose you e.g., "My friend is giving me his old amp"... or, "I'm buying a piece from my buddy for $40 bucks"... "...And you'll Never have the audio system that you've always wanted if you design that way!" Just something to think about... Rdgs!
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