My car has door speakers that are powered by a factory amp. The door panels rattle badly at high volume and I have a separate sub in the trunk so bass is not needed in these speakers. I'd like to use these speakers for mids/highs only.
The speakers are 2 ohm and the factory amp is 25-50 watts per speaker.
I've tried bass blocker capacitors in the past but they didn't seem to work..Maybe I was using the wrong type?
Can anyone give any guidance to building a crossover to solve this issue? I'm handy with a soldering iron.
Thanks!
The speakers are 2 ohm and the factory amp is 25-50 watts per speaker.
I've tried bass blocker capacitors in the past but they didn't seem to work..Maybe I was using the wrong type?
Can anyone give any guidance to building a crossover to solve this issue? I'm handy with a soldering iron.
Thanks!
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Moved to Car Audio as this is the forum most likely to provide the right answer.
I don't remember it was years ago.. Idk about frequency either, whatever is above bass lol. 150? I'm not good with frequencies and all that.
I don't have any midbass, I don't think. I currently only have tweets I my dash and a set of 4" speakers I the rear deck, and a sub in trunk. So maybe have xover include mids/highs? Just want to avoid vibrations.
I don't have any midbass, I don't think. I currently only have tweets I my dash and a set of 4" speakers I the rear deck, and a sub in trunk. So maybe have xover include mids/highs? Just want to avoid vibrations.
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Try looking at this link or some of the many other similar circuits published on the 'net:
one circuit for each stereo input into the amplifier driving your door 'Speakers:
Variable High-Pass 20HZ to 200HZ Filter Circuit Diagram
You can then tune the filters to best match your 'Sub'
hope this assists
Mik
one circuit for each stereo input into the amplifier driving your door 'Speakers:
Variable High-Pass 20HZ to 200HZ Filter Circuit Diagram
You can then tune the filters to best match your 'Sub'
hope this assists
Mik
Page 54 of the basic car audio site (link in sig line below) has calculators for capacitor values.
The 'BassBlockers' (trade name) were a capacitor and parallel drain resistor. The resistor isn't needed unless you get a pop when the system is powered up/down.
You should understand that using a capacitor alone doesn't produce a sharp cutoff. If you use a lot of bass boost/equalization and don't want any bass through the speakers, you will have to cross them over at a relatively high frequency. That won't leave much in the midbass region.
The 'BassBlockers' (trade name) were a capacitor and parallel drain resistor. The resistor isn't needed unless you get a pop when the system is powered up/down.
You should understand that using a capacitor alone doesn't produce a sharp cutoff. If you use a lot of bass boost/equalization and don't want any bass through the speakers, you will have to cross them over at a relatively high frequency. That won't leave much in the midbass region.
It's not the sub. When I installed the sub in the trunk I disconnected the plug (power/signal) connected to the stock amp that feeds the door speakers and vibrations stopped. It's actually the window up/down switches that vibrate from the door speaker bass...a known issue with this car.
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OK, so that clears it up. You may have trouble cutting off enough bass from your door speakers to solve this without leaving a gap in the FR. The switch is small and doesn't require a very low frequency to excite it. Is there no way of damping the switch?
Oh! I didn't read that the speakers are 2 Ω: that is a very "difficult" load, for any amplifier. I usually rely on the safe 8Ω standard that home speakers have; 4 Ω is "so-so" if you aren't confident in power capability of your amplifier; remember that the lowest the load, the higher the distortion ( it's the physics of semiconductors ).
#16:
If the amplifier was designed to drive 2 ohms and was properly designed, the distortion (before clipping) won't necessarily be any higher than an amp designed for and driving a higher ohm load. Virtually all commercially available amplifiers use global feedback that virtually eliminate distortion.
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The crossover needs to be designed for the load impedance. Is that crossover rated for 2 ohms?
Capacitors work but don't produce a steep slope so they aren't practical for applications where you need to eliminate low bass but want to retain midbass.
If the amplifier was designed to drive 2 ohms and was properly designed, the distortion (before clipping) won't necessarily be any higher than an amp designed for and driving a higher ohm load. Virtually all commercially available amplifiers use global feedback that virtually eliminate distortion.
#17:
The crossover needs to be designed for the load impedance. Is that crossover rated for 2 ohms?
Capacitors work but don't produce a steep slope so they aren't practical for applications where you need to eliminate low bass but want to retain midbass.
Try this table for a second order Butterworth
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tables/XOver/2ndOrder.aspx
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tables/XOver/2ndOrder.aspx
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