+Butler Tube Driver amp problem update Need help

JCoffey · 17th January 2004, 09:27 PM

Fist off I'd like to thank those that offered for me to send in the amp and them repair it. Unfortunately my email account closed and I lost your emails. If you'd like to extend the offer again, email me at jonathan.coffey@engelhard.com
Here is my first post on it:
First link
Ok, after having it sit here for a couple months, I desided to hook it up to a 12v 11 amp UPS battery on my workbench to see if it will power on with no load . IT DOES!! I then desided to connect a small home speaker to it to put a load on it, and connect a signal from my sound card. With or without the RCa cables conected all I get is a medium volume constant whine. Imagine RFI noise caused by an alternator. No sound other than the whine. It now sounds like there may be a short somewhere with the Sub it was connected to, but I'll have to get under the car and unbolt the box in order to pull it out and get undernieth where the wires are connected. (Gotta Love JL audio's ease of instalation with thier Stealthboxes) Any thoughts or ideas now as to what the issue is with the amp making this noise?

JCoffey · 18th January 2004, 07:18 PM

anyone?

JCoffey · 21st January 2004, 12:24 PM

Mods, could you move this post to Car audio?
Thanks,
Jonathan Coffey

TO-3 · 12th February 2004, 09:55 PM

Still broken?

offroadbum · 14th February 2004, 11:21 AM

have you checked the resistors around the the output transistors?
they work as a feedback safey.

JCoffey · 16th February 2004, 01:01 PM

Yup it's still broken. I've hooked it back up just power no signal, and it's barely on. The light behind the tubes doesnt even glow anymore. With signal I get nothing.

TO-3 · 16th February 2004, 02:45 PM

I know a thing or two about those amps, what does it not do?

JCoffey · 16th February 2004, 03:41 PM

Basicly, it's not preally powering on, and there is no sound. I checked the diodes, and they all tested fine, so at this point I'm not sure what the prob could be. It was playing and just went out. No burned chips, resistors, etc. No visible failures anywhere....

TO-3 · 16th February 2004, 04:20 PM

The last pin of the PWM chip(either 14 or 16) is the protect. Hi resests the chip. Pull a lead of that resistor(straight across) I think it is a 2.2k and remove the 6pin cable that is connected between the tubes. That cable provides power for the audio section. With the protection resistor up and the cable disconnected, you can troubleshoot the power supply section and make sure you aren't getting a HI at that pin.

The tubes don't glow that bright because he is using a lower plate voltage tho operate them.

JCoffey · 17th February 2004, 12:54 PM

OK, I'll check that out. And to me honest I didnt think they glowed at all with the level they are run at, and thats why he has a small light bulb behind them to make it look like they're glowing. Once I saw the bulb I thought about swapping ti to make my own TD Blue, lol

17th January 2004, 09:27 PM	#1
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	+Butler Tube Driver amp problem update Need help Fist off I'd like to thank those that offered for me to send in the amp and them repair it. Unfortunately my email account closed and I lost your emails. If you'd like to extend the offer again, email me at jonathan.coffey@engelhard.com Here is my first post on it: First link Ok, after having it sit here for a couple months, I desided to hook it up to a 12v 11 amp UPS battery on my workbench to see if it will power on with no load . IT DOES!! I then desided to connect a small home speaker to it to put a load on it, and connect a signal from my sound card. With or without the RCa cables conected all I get is a medium volume constant whine. Imagine RFI noise caused by an alternator. No sound other than the whine. It now sounds like there may be a short somewhere with the Sub it was connected to, but I'll have to get under the car and unbolt the box in order to pull it out and get undernieth where the wires are connected. (Gotta Love JL audio's ease of instalation with thier Stealthboxes) Any thoughts or ideas now as to what the issue is with the amp making this noise?

12th February 2004, 09:55 PM	#4
TO-3 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	Still broken? __________________ Check out Tube Driver BLUE products at: www.tubedriver.com

14th February 2004, 11:21 AM	#5
offroadbum diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: tennessee	shot in the dark have you checked the resistors around the the output transistors? they work as a feedback safey. __________________ Lost in wonderland.......... now where that rabbit go??

16th February 2004, 02:45 PM	#7
TO-3 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	I know a thing or two about those amps, what does it not do? __________________ Check out Tube Driver BLUE products at: www.tubedriver.com

16th February 2004, 04:20 PM	#9
TO-3 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	The last pin of the PWM chip(either 14 or 16) is the protect. Hi resests the chip. Pull a lead of that resistor(straight across) I think it is a 2.2k and remove the 6pin cable that is connected between the tubes. That cable provides power for the audio section. With the protection resistor up and the cable disconnected, you can troubleshoot the power supply section and make sure you aren't getting a HI at that pin. The tubes don't glow that bright because he is using a lower plate voltage tho operate them. __________________ Check out Tube Driver BLUE products at: www.tubedriver.com


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18th January 2004, 07:18 PM	#2
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	anyone?

21st January 2004, 12:24 PM	#3
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	Mods, could you move this post to Car audio? Thanks, Jonathan Coffey

16th February 2004, 01:01 PM	#6
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	Yup it's still broken. I've hooked it back up just power no signal, and it's barely on. The light behind the tubes doesnt even glow anymore. With signal I get nothing.

16th February 2004, 03:41 PM	#8
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	Basicly, it's not preally powering on, and there is no sound. I checked the diodes, and they all tested fine, so at this point I'm not sure what the prob could be. It was playing and just went out. No burned chips, resistors, etc. No visible failures anywhere....

17th February 2004, 12:54 PM	#10
JCoffey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA	OK, I'll check that out. And to me honest I didnt think they glowed at all with the level they are run at, and thats why he has a small light bulb behind them to make it look like they're glowing. Once I saw the bulb I thought about swapping ti to make my own TD Blue, lol

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