you guys kill me...LMAO
I still use and test car audio equipment with 2 marine Gel cell deep cycle batteries (Interstate 800 cca) and I have a charger (40 amp) to turn on and off at a predetermined voltage (12.2 on and 14.4 off)....there are 2 1 farad capacitors connected on the output....basically an automotive setup
I still use and test car audio equipment with 2 marine Gel cell deep cycle batteries (Interstate 800 cca) and I have a charger (40 amp) to turn on and off at a predetermined voltage (12.2 on and 14.4 off)....there are 2 1 farad capacitors connected on the output....basically an automotive setup
I powered my spare in-dash cd player with a computer PSU (power supply unit). It output 12VDC@4.2A.
But I ran the in-dash to my reciever; this way the in-dash ONLY drains about .52A.
Caution!! The AC line (from the PSU) may causes EMI humms.
I tried the PSU approach and got mixed results on humming. I am thinking about using a 12VDC@.8A wall adaptor or use a snap-on ferrite core to correct the problem.
But I ran the in-dash to my reciever; this way the in-dash ONLY drains about .52A.
Caution!! The AC line (from the PSU) may causes EMI humms.
I tried the PSU approach and got mixed results on humming. I am thinking about using a 12VDC@.8A wall adaptor or use a snap-on ferrite core to correct the problem.
car audio at home
Just before xmas my dealer sold his Rockford display to some lucky kid with rich parents for his bedroom. I asked the same question as how to power all those watts and amps at home. His answer was to use a couple of car batteries and a reqular battery charger.
Just before xmas my dealer sold his Rockford display to some lucky kid with rich parents for his bedroom. I asked the same question as how to power all those watts and amps at home. His answer was to use a couple of car batteries and a reqular battery charger.
Regulated 12V DC power supplies can be had at any output rating you need.
For 10 amperes or less (head unit, no external amp) you can use the 12V section of an old PC power supply. Beyond that, Radio Shack sells one that does 25 amps (I think) and Pyramid makes them up to 40 amps :
http://www.valcoelectronics.com/psupplies/ps52.htm
For 10 amperes or less (head unit, no external amp) you can use the 12V section of an old PC power supply. Beyond that, Radio Shack sells one that does 25 amps (I think) and Pyramid makes them up to 40 amps :
http://www.valcoelectronics.com/psupplies/ps52.htm
12volt supplies are expensive. I personally ran some 7amp power one units in parallel. they were thrown out by my dads company...still worked great though.
Apart of the racing team i participate in we use 2 huge power supplys in parallel that must weigh like 80lbs a piece.
Faites777- the problem you are having is that the plug on the computer power supply is of the 3 prong type in which the third is earth ground. The case and ground out put of your supply is referenced to this. So youve got a ground loop becuase of it. The ground is used on the power supply for safty reasons...and to keep electronmagnet noise from being spewed out of the supply from the switching power supplys.
Apart of the racing team i participate in we use 2 huge power supplys in parallel that must weigh like 80lbs a piece.
Faites777- the problem you are having is that the plug on the computer power supply is of the 3 prong type in which the third is earth ground. The case and ground out put of your supply is referenced to this. So youve got a ground loop becuase of it. The ground is used on the power supply for safty reasons...and to keep electronmagnet noise from being spewed out of the supply from the switching power supplys.
Careful with car batteries, regular ones need to vent (don't know if you can build up enough cause an explosion indoors, but why temp fate?), and you don't want to dump one carrying it around the house. Dry cell might be an alternative if you go that route.
And a 12v power supply is definately the way to go. Too bad they're not cheap, they start at about $100 USD for one that can drive a big car amp.
And I too have had sucess with computer power supplies and small car amps, but the woofers wiggle back and forth, it's not clean power .
And a 12v power supply is definately the way to go. Too bad they're not cheap, they start at about $100 USD for one that can drive a big car amp.
And I too have had sucess with computer power supplies and small car amps, but the woofers wiggle back and forth, it's not clean power .
JOE DIRT® said:you guys kill me...LMAO
I still use and test car audio equipment with 2 marine Gel cell deep cycle batteries (Interstate 800 cca) and I have a charger (40 amp) to turn on and off at a predetermined voltage (12.2 on and 14.4 off)....there are 2 1 farad capacitors connected on the output....basically an automotive setup
could i have a copy of the circuit diagram?
matttcattt@yahoo.co.uk
I know the voltage is abit low... but I have seen 9 volt 250VA toroidals for kinda cheap... so.. expect somewhere around 12volts DC from them... at $25 each for $100 Australian you have the basis for a very heavy, very powerfull 12volt supply... lol 100+ amps.. and 20+ Kilograms... lol
EDIT: I mean, how much would a decent battery and charger cost anyway? lol
ok, ok... so its big, big, big, hot hot hot, and heavy.. but so what? lol
EDIT: I mean, how much would a decent battery and charger cost anyway? lol
ok, ok... so its big, big, big, hot hot hot, and heavy.. but so what? lol
most automotive equipement is expected to run down to 9 or 10 volts...so 12 volts should be fine although you may run into problems if there is excessive voltage drop. Also if the amplifier being run has a unregulataed power supply in it you will lose some output power capability...not too much though.
Benjlv said:most automotive equipement is expected to run down to 9 or 10 volts...so 12 volts should be fine although you may run into problems if there is excessive voltage drop. Also if the amplifier being run has a unregulataed power supply in it you will lose some output power capability...not too much though.
well... with good enough bridge rectifiers... and heavy enough cable, I could imagine too much voltage drop... unless you are sucking like 80 amp peaks.... which I guess is possible.... but chuck on a few Farad caps and you'll be right as rain.. lol
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