Hifonics BRX2400.1D (Brutus BRX-2400.1D) Repair - diyAudio
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Old 5th April 2014, 02:11 PM   #1
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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Default Hifonics BRX2400.1D (Brutus BRX-2400.1D) Repair

I have a Hifonics BRX2400.1D (Brutus BRX-2400.1D) that goes into protection with just power connected. (no remote wire jumped/connected) I pulled the pwr board and it will give me the green light at that point. This is as far as I've gone as I haven't worked on car amps before. I'm looking for direction. What involving the pwr board should I be focusing on?

Last edited by Ginks; 6th April 2014 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 5th April 2014, 02:33 PM   #2
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What do you mean power board?

Did you pull the driver board in the output stage?
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Old 5th April 2014, 02:38 PM   #3
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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Actually that may be incorrect. It's the board outlined in the image below that I pulled and the amp came out of Protect and went Green.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg paint.jpg (452.0 KB, 97 views)

Last edited by Ginks; 5th April 2014 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 5th April 2014, 04:59 PM   #4
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Also, the amp died when the caralternator was going out.
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Old 5th April 2014, 05:22 PM   #5
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For clarification...
When you stated that it would go into protect with only power connected, did you mean B+, ground and remote or only B+ and ground?

That's the power supply driver board. With it out of the circuit, the power LED will probably illuminate if remote and ground are connected. When the board is out of the circuit, the amp is essentially inoperative. When it's in the circuit, the power supply will produce voltage and if there is a fault in the audio stage, the amp will (should) go into protect mode.

Did you check the output transistors in the amp?

Post a photo of the audio driver board.
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Old 6th April 2014, 12:41 AM   #6
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
For clarification...
When you stated that it would go into protect with only power connected, did you mean B+, ground and remote or only B+ and ground?

That's the power supply driver board. With it out of the circuit, the power LED will probably illuminate if remote and ground are connected. When the board is out of the circuit, the amp is essentially inoperative. When it's in the circuit, the power supply will produce voltage and if there is a fault in the audio stage, the amp will (should) go into protect mode.

Did you check the output transistors in the amp?

Post a photo of the audio driver board.
If I remember correctly it was green with both configs. The green light I believe just got a little brighter when the remote wire was jumped but I don't recall 100%.

Also, the amp was in protect mode without the remote wire connected prior to removing that board if that helps. (I'll add this information to the first post as well)

Last edited by Ginks; 6th April 2014 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 6th April 2014, 12:44 AM   #7
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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This is the other board. It's not mine, but the same board. I have a basic digital multimeter to do testing at this point.
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File Type: jpg 2610-driver-81013.jpg (619.1 KB, 83 views)
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Old 6th April 2014, 12:51 AM   #8
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Was the cover on the amp when you tested it initially? It's odd that the LEDs were half lit. If the cover was not in place, ambient light could have made them look partially lit.
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Old 6th April 2014, 02:33 AM   #9
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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No, I just had the board on a piece of plastic on the garage bench.
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Old 6th April 2014, 02:56 AM   #10
Ginks is offline Ginks  United States
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After looking at other amps that use this same board I just realized that what I thought was a god awful glue job might be something else? I have attached a few pictures that display this hard plastic stuff that looks like it has air bubbles in it.
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File Type: jpg 2014-04-05 21.41.32.jpg (916.1 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-04-05 21.42.05.jpg (777.6 KB, 72 views)
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