Can anyone tell me the difference between the circuitry of the 16-1000d compared to the 16-st1000d im assuming the one isn't a studio version however im working on this amp for repair and it just has static snowy sound coming from the outputs so my first guess was to check the drivers on the riser board but im unsure which ones are the drivers cause the circuitry seems to be labeled on the board different instead of example Q13 it would be R13 can anyone help?
I find memphis, directed, orion, and kicker impulse all use the same exact circuitry. with a few small differences in the head-end. (preamp-processing side).
the newer kicker stuff uses the same modulator, just different output/driver stages.
Even more proof, I pulled the driver boards out of an orion that was trashed, and stuck them in a memphis mojo and inter-bred them. dropped right in, and worked fine. lololol.
I assume that they all hired the same engineer, or bought from one-another. Eh. I digress...
the newer kicker stuff uses the same modulator, just different output/driver stages.
Even more proof, I pulled the driver boards out of an orion that was trashed, and stuck them in a memphis mojo and inter-bred them. dropped right in, and worked fine. lololol.
I assume that they all hired the same engineer, or bought from one-another. Eh. I digress...
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Thanks for the info I didn't know that do you have any ideas where to go on the no sound the drivers aren't getting hot I replaced them because they were cold when fired up then I tested them later and found out they were .727 v a1266 bjt's I replaced these on my other Memphis 1000d studio amp worked perfectly but all I get is a wind sound every once in awhile through the speakers
You need to check the 2 large zener diodes on each driver board, along with thier associated resistors. they tend to short/open and fail to supply power to that board at that point.
Also, you need to make sure your +/-60v and +/-15v are present. the +/-15v regulators and inductors love to go bad. sometimes explosively! the voltage test points should be marked.
also dont forget those 1 ohm resistors that connect the transistors together, if one or more of the driver transistors fail, it takes the SMD 1 ohm resistors with them.
Also, you need to make sure your +/-60v and +/-15v are present. the +/-15v regulators and inductors love to go bad. sometimes explosively! the voltage test points should be marked.
also dont forget those 1 ohm resistors that connect the transistors together, if one or more of the driver transistors fail, it takes the SMD 1 ohm resistors with them.
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well the driver in the center with the F16 and B52 chip? Well that is the modulator board. not the driver board.
I dont have a picture handy youll need to ask perry for that if he has one. That board is even more critical to the +/-15V rail. If your missing either rail, itll pin the speaker output to full rail voltage.
Also the B52 chip which is an LM361, is sensitive to voltage fluctuations and is easily damaged.
You need a good scope, You can remove the drive wire coming from the modulator (gray cable daisy chained between the risers) and scope the pulse. if its a noisy mess, the problem is in your modulator. If its a nice clean square wave, the problem is in the driver boards.
if your A1266 transistors were in fact damaged on your modulator board, you will probably need to replace the associated TL431s AND the B52 chip. (LM361). Then check the stability of your +/-15V feeding that board so you dont cook it again.
I dont have a picture handy youll need to ask perry for that if he has one. That board is even more critical to the +/-15V rail. If your missing either rail, itll pin the speaker output to full rail voltage.
Also the B52 chip which is an LM361, is sensitive to voltage fluctuations and is easily damaged.
You need a good scope, You can remove the drive wire coming from the modulator (gray cable daisy chained between the risers) and scope the pulse. if its a noisy mess, the problem is in your modulator. If its a nice clean square wave, the problem is in the driver boards.
if your A1266 transistors were in fact damaged on your modulator board, you will probably need to replace the associated TL431s AND the B52 chip. (LM361). Then check the stability of your +/-15V feeding that board so you dont cook it again.
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The boards that run along heatsinks, directly in front of your FETs, are the driver boards. They just drive the FETs based off the signal coming from that small gray coax cable.
The board in the middle, perpendicular to those two, have 2 big dip chips. Thats the modulator. You need to scope the drive signal on that 2 pin coax wire to isolate your problem.
But troubleshooting 101: When in doubt, check voltages!
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