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Old 24th January 2014, 05:47 PM   #1
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Default JL Audio 500/1 component help

Ok I just want to double check with some of the experts on here. I have the PCB 100006 Rev 3 version. I tried to put all the info I could down.

I have discovered a 2 of the outputs are fried which in turn fried other stuff. I just want to double check, and make sure I'm ordering the correct parts. I found the power supply FETs. I need to measure the gate resistors for their physical size although I do know they are 47 ohms (47R0), and I believe they are 1/4w... I think... Also discovered a few output resistors are bad as well. Thanks to the other threads I came across on this site! Awesome information out there, but these 2 items I have not came across yet.

Starting with the outputs I noticed the outputs are IRF540's, but there is 2 different ones. The right one is hard to see. IRF540 048E on the left, and IRF540 1055 on the right. Is there a big difference between the 2? I've came across lots of IRF540's, but not these 2 exactly. Maybe I'm just not searching correctly or something.

Click the image to open in full size.


Then I've read on multiple threads different part numbers for these the driver transistors... which I can not seem to locate by the printed part letters/number on my own. I've seen the part numbers KTA1666, 2SB1260, 2SD1898, etc. But everyone just shows the UY and UW. Not the numbers. So I figured I'd ask to make sure I'd get the correct compatible ones. Also then which ones which as one is a PNP and the other is NPN correct?

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 86boy; 24th January 2014 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 24th January 2014, 09:26 PM   #2
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2SD1898T100R and 2SB1260T100R should work as Perry has used the PNP with no issues.

The fets are like that from the factory batches...I've seen it on plenty of new untouched amplifiers (not the same batch).

When replacing them make sure you match them and replace all of them (all four).

Yes its a 47ohm resistor.
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Old 24th January 2014, 11:20 PM   #3
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeanious2011 View Post
2SD1898T100R and 2SB1260T100R should work as Perry has used the PNP with no issues.

The fets are like that from the factory batches...I've seen it on plenty of new untouched amplifiers (not the same batch).

When replacing them make sure you match them and replace all of them (all four).

Yes its a 47ohm resistor.
Awesome! Thanks for the links even! Now is the UY a PNP or NPN... that way I know which is which.

With the output fets it doesn't matter that each side has 2 different "model" or "version" numbers? IRF540 048E and IRF540 1055
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Old 25th January 2014, 12:23 AM   #4
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Check on the description given on Mouser, if still in doubt read the datasheet as it clearly specifies what it is "PNP or NPN".

No it doesn't matter, it was like that from the factory...don't sweat it. Now if they are shorted replace all from the same batch (same date codes).
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Old 28th January 2014, 06:20 AM   #5
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Yeah I know how to tell which part is PNP and NPN... I'm asking about the factory driver transistors thay are still on the board. The UY 112 and WY 111 or will the new parts have the same stamping? The part I don't know is if the UY 112 is a PNP or NPN, and if the WY 111 is a PNP or NPN. Maybe I'm just being special?
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Old 28th January 2014, 05:42 PM   #6
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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/\ ignore that post... I can't edit it to delete it or I would.

In the picture below this is only for "1 side" there is actually 2 more of those same part numbers (not pictured). I took this close up for the letters/number on the transistor itself so it was visible. I can upload a picture of that section of the board and try to highlight all 4 if needed. Also don't be afraid to tell me i'm being an idiot. It's been about 5 years since I've messed with circuitry lol! I do see which part on mouser is the PNP and which one is the NPN, but still does not answer my question. When I get these parts I don't know which to replace what with.

Maybe this will help clarify what I'm asking.

2SD1898T100R is the replacement for UY 112?
2SB1260T100R is the replacement for WY 111?

or vise versa?



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Last edited by 86boy; 28th January 2014 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:06 AM   #7
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alright so... it's done for. I pulled up the pad on one of the driver transistors. damn. well thanks for the help. looks like my desoldering skills are horrible. the iron was only 500* too. ugh. well thanks for the help. I might try another amplifier I have, but it sucks that I just bought 60 dollars worth of parts then this to happen. I'm saddened by my error.
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:14 AM   #8
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Its not too late...if your pretty handy with a soldering iron you could jump a wire to the smd driver.....but then again you did say you damaged it yourself

Post pic of the damage and we might be able to tell if its repairable or not.

SMD parts are best to be removed with a SMD rework soldering station which using hot air to heat up the SMD component leads and solder pads. Once you got it hot enough you can easily pick it up with a fine pair of tweezers. Take it as a lesson learned, buy a SMD rework station (only if your serious about doing future repairs, because they are NOT CHEAP unless their knock offs) and practice on a scrap board.
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Last edited by evianamp2011; 1st February 2014 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:17 AM   #9
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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the long leg that goes under the driver transistor the whole thing was pulled up trying to fix a bridge I did when my hand twitched. I remember this being easier before.... then again I also had an air soldering iron for this small stuff. I'll take a picture, but no idea how well it will turn out.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 86boy; 1st February 2014 at 03:21 AM. Reason: added a photo
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:23 AM   #10
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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I used one in college. I don't own one that's the downfall. So resorting back to a conventional soldering iron to do SMD kinda sucks....
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