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Old 1st February 2014, 03:00 AM   #21
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Trash it is then...thanks for making the company another 500 bucks when this amplifier could have been saved and re-used.

Its like saying "Why buy 30 buck black ink and 30 bucks color ink when I can buy a 65 dollar printer brand new with both inks."....do you even know where those printers end up at?
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:05 AM   #22
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Yep JL deserves it. Good amps til they fail, and props to those that can remove solder to fix them.... obviously I can't. 4 pads pulled... I'll just keep trying til the board is completely toast or I figure out the trick to it.
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Old 1st February 2014, 03:14 AM   #23
kds9591 is offline kds9591  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86boy View Post
I didn't lose any clips, rca nuts washers, or screws it's all here... I'm trying to clean up the board to possibly try to save it... Just pulled anohter pad for a mosfet... idk wtf I'm doing wrong. I even turned it down to 300*. I'm not going to box it up to ship it.
If your going to remove SMD parts with a iron you have to use liquid flux for good heat transfer- does wonders. Use a good brand of liquid flux too-Kester for example, not something bought from Radio Shack.
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Old 1st February 2014, 04:32 AM   #24
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kds9591 View Post
If your going to remove SMD parts with a iron you have to use liquid flux for good heat transfer- does wonders. Use a good brand of liquid flux too-Kester for example, not something bought from Radio Shack.

the funny part is it was the one SMD pad that I pulled up. the other 3 were on mosfets. I think I figured out what I was doing wrong. I turned up the heat to 700, and added more solder then moved it around for a couple seconds then gave it a little push with a pick. slid right off without a problem. I went ahead and replaced the other driver transistors, the 8 gate resistors, and a couple output resistors without a problem. I was just being inpatient, and then frustration got the best of me. I have a couple more output resistors to swap out, and try to solder a wire to the one transistor driver. I discovered that tiny hole is attatched to the metal bar that goes in front of them. So I'm going to attempt to attach it there since I don't have thin enough wire for that tiny hole... plus that solder joint on that bar is right there.
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Old 1st February 2014, 08:15 AM   #25
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Ok so I went back through testing the resistors making sure they were all good. I don't have the power supply fets nor the output fets in yet. R526 and R527 are reading 700 ohm. Which 1 should be 1k and the other 2.37k... any ideas? That's testing across JUST the resistor itself soldered in the board.
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Old 1st February 2014, 08:54 PM   #26
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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I got the driver transistor fixed with a little wire. Also the mosfet pads I pulled up I managed to solder on the top side, and everything appears to be reading correctly from what I've been reading in other threads. except R526 and R527.... I believe I have fixed all of the broken pieces I've been able to find so far other than those 2 resistors. I have also left out the output FETs for now as well until I'm certain everything else is correct. I think I was going to fast with the lower heat. Since I turned it up to 750* I was able to use the plunger to get a majority of the solder off the board without pulling any more pads.
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Old 2nd February 2014, 01:57 PM   #27
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Always practice on a "broken/scrap" board you may have laying around. Use anything that is broken and you have no desire to repair such as an old radio, tv that have double sided boards. There you will find out what your doing wrong and right, if you mess it up no big deal as its trash.
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Old 2nd February 2014, 06:37 PM   #28
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Yeah that's true. Trying to do this stuff 5 years later I realized I'm a little rusty.... :/ my bad. Also Im sorry for freaking out online and wanting to trash it. I realized that would be stupid.

I did enough testing to feel comfortable enough to power it on with a 5 A fuse inline. It stayed powered up for about 10-15 seconds and the fuse popped... everthing is back in the chassis with the fets clamped to the heatsink as I wasn't sure how hot they would get even with no load. When it first powered up the thermal light was on for a split second as well then turned off. Obviously pulling to much current. The output fets are still not in the board. Any ideas?

EDIT: I tried another fuse to possibly check voltages, and the fuse popped instantaneously...

Last edited by 86boy; 2nd February 2014 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 2nd February 2014, 08:18 PM   #29
86boy is offline 86boy  United States
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Ahhh wow... I had a hairline solder bridge. Preamp board in and powered up so far. Everything is on. Now to check some voltages and for heat... if I can find that thread again...

So I can't find this info anywhere when the amp is good and correct everywhere else... the outputs are still out and its powered up. All the voltages I check with the heatsink attached seem to match close to ther threads. The output voltages on the output holes are as following as if you were reading the Q504, Q505, etc right side up. Going left to right

Q504
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v

Q505
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v

Q506
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v

Q507
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v

Last edited by 86boy; 2nd February 2014 at 08:38 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 2nd February 2014, 11:15 PM   #30
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I'll see if I can check one of mine tonight. Have you check the amps current @idle?
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