|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I want to build a 2000-4000 watt car amp.
Does anybody have any ideas/schematics for a power supply that will handle so much power? Also, I need ideas/schematics for the amp. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
thats a WHOLE lotta watts.
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Can someone into car audio explain why car amps in the Kilo watts region are required in a space so small , when 100 watts per channel in a large room is VERY loud.
Is it the desire to destroy the ear faster than the acceleration time of the car ? The ear is a super precision device given to us for 'free'. Maybe that's why. If we had to pay to improve hearing , audiophiles would be paying mega bucks to get get the best possible pair ! Cheers.
__________________
AM |
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Quote:
My guess (although i don't quialify for the "car audio" since i think its useless anyway b/c you hear the road noise/etc so it ruins it) is that its for competition. Otherwise, it makes absolutely no sense to me .. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Finland
|
Do you really want to do it yourself, i mean, you need thiiiiiiiiiiiiis big smps and damn big currents flowing around, even with perfect amplifier and battery that keeps voltage steady at 12V even with huge load, there will bo 333A going from battery to amplifier when pushing out 4000W
Do you really mean real, true rms watts, not pmpo-watts that are shown in commercials? Even normal "peak power output"-watts and real rms-watts have huge difference, i mean 50Wrms@4ohms@thd+n=0.05% per channel amplifier can be sold as 200Watt per channel amp, when power is peak-to-peak value and thd+n is huge You will also need massive heatsinking, even with D-class amp, say you have 85% efficient amp (including SMPS _and_ amp, in real life it will be less than 85%), output power 4000W, and you will have 700Watts to dissipate thru hetasinks. And with that power, current intake will be almost 400Amps. So you will need power cables that are as thick as child's arm, capasitor bank that almost takes whole trunk of your car, and your battery will be drawn empty in couple minutes. If it lasts that long, it may start boiling and explode. If you run that thing with engine running, your alternator will be dead quickly, 'cause it overheats, they are made to push out currents like 80Amps, not 400. So you will need to change alternator or use more than one, put in more batteries and still you would be ib trouble with your electric system. If you were going to use it in sound pressure contests, forget it, and build/buy like four 1000Watt amps, if not, there is no sense at all to build amplifier that big. Even 1000Watt amp is difficult to build and get working at home. |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Santa Maria CA
|
You would need about 333 amps from the 12 volt system to sustain that kind of power, disregarding inefficiencies. That is an awful lot of current from a 12 volt automotive electrical system...
![]() Dave Kimble dave.kimble@gte.net |
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vic, Au
|
"2000-4000" watts? I presume you either want a serious competition amp, or judging by your nick, something that just hammers speakers.
You'd be amazed what putting more than 222 'sony watts' into a sub can do for sound. 2000 will destroy anything non SPL competition grade. I'd suggest trying a good higher powered car amp like one of the response 2 x 150 wrms. You'd be surprised that competition SPL doesn't use 4000 watt amps, they use 30 or 40 1000 watt amps. Some of the best systems i have heard have had under 400 watts rms total power, because its pointless to listen at ultra high levels. Blocking road noise is achieved quite easily at this level. |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Hi,
Competition SPL must be one of the most meaningless competitions ever. What sense does it make to be able to play your system in a closed car with the listeners outside , as loud as possible. Levels that will destroy ones ear in a moment-if you were sitting in the car! I was at one of these SPL measurement comeptitions and it was really meaningless. Road noise contains very high level LF sounds which are not really good for a person especially for long duration. To overcome that by increasing the low end of the music must surely be damaging to the ear. This just makes the LF sounds several db higher than what is bad already. The ear doesn't care if it is music or not. That is differentiated by the brain. The ear can be easily damaged in the process . But of course everyone is free to destroy what ever part of ones body one chooses! Cheers.
__________________
AM |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: EU- Electronic Union country
|
whay would say litlle japaneses people? I think they intelligently nod
I have morel 150/1000w drivers and with 24w class a amps they broke walls at home.. I am profesional medicine doctor, I can help You
__________________
natural sound reproduction from traditional dynamic drivers?!! come on.. no no, it can be.. it must be!.. |
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I have 2 audiobahn alum12q's 12 inch subs, dual 6 ohm voice coils, 1000w rms, and I need an amp for them.
Would it be better to build 4 500w rms amps (one for each coil)? Does anybody have any ideas for a 500w rms @ 6 ohms amp? |
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.10026 seconds (84.67% PHP - 15.33% MySQL) with 10 queries |