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Old 24th October 2013, 10:02 PM   #1
jswerve is offline jswerve
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Default Need help with my system!

I currently have a Subaru Legacy 2010 that is still under warranty and wanting to install aftermarket subs/amp without voiding the warranty which specifically states no aftermarket modifications. However, I plan on installing them anyway, and then take them out and hide the wires where there not easily noticed when I go for oil changes and other things.

Anyway, I have developed a system that still has a few bugs but thankfully it's getting better every day. I'm a bit low on money, so I have shortened my upgrades down to just a few things (since my stock stereo already blurs the mirror just a tiny bit) which doesn't break the bank.

SA 12D2 Sundown Audio 12" DVC 2 Ohm SA Subwoofer Sub | eBay
Soundstream STL1.600D 600W
Soundstream STL1 600D 600W Mono Block Class D Power Amplifier Authorized Dealer 709483031661 | eBay

First things first, it CAN NOT appear that I have modified the car. So that limits me to the stock head unit, which would be more than obvious if I replaced it. Anyway, I planed on wiring it up to a diagram similar to this..
This is where I start to have a little trouble understanding. For starters, what kind of power wire (blue wire) should I be running from the battery. I've seen people say 8 gauge, 10 gauge, and a bunch of other things. But what should I be using? If you could even link be to the best deals that would be great! Exactly what kind of wire should I be running from my amp to my subs? From my converter box to my acc. plug and my speakers? I really need to know exactly what wire I should go in the store and buy.

As far as converter boxes go, what would be the best converter box (high/low or line in line out) should I buy? Also how should I be getting the wire from the speakers? I could not find a wiring diagram anywhere, and my car does not feature back speakers that can be access through the trunk. It appears that I need to access them through door panel? Do I just soder a wire to the speaker and run it, what kind of wire do I soder? Or could I somehow find the wire in a more convenient place before it enters the door and splice it somehow there? (I have a Subaru Legacy 2010)

Also I'm looking for the best enclosure for my steup? I plan on building one in the future but for now I want a prebuilt enclosure. I understand there not the best, but what would be the best one to get?

My last question is with the battery fuse. What fuse should I buy and how far should I place it away from the battery? I've heard many different things from many different people.

Thank you and if anybody finds a diagram for the speakers in my car that would be great. I can't find exactly where to get my front deck speaker wire for my LOC box. Also if you have any tips for hiding things in the easiest way possible when I go take my car in don't hesitate to let me know!
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Old 25th October 2013, 11:36 PM   #2
ubza1234 is offline ubza1234  Australia
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Melbourne
1, put simply, you should use the thickest power cable you can. doing some quick calculations with the Android app "audio toolkit Pro" you will get away with a minimum of 8g, (that's based on your 600w amp, being fed 13v and around 3 meters long of cable to make it from the battery to the boot) but thicker cable is generally a Lil heavier duty, and if you want to upgrade something in the future, you will already have the cable there ready to go. fur this reason I would rather see you go with 4g. a 60 amp Anderson connection may come in handy so you can easily and safely disconnect the power when you take it in to get serviced. also, some cheaper eBay stores will sell you power cable labeled as 4g, but the wire inside is actually around 6g but on the outside it looks like 4g because the insulation is so thick so be careful, this is another great reason to go for 4g wire. the thicker insulation can actually be an advantage to because while it can't take as much current as a real 4g cable, the thick insulation makes it super protected against abrasion and physical wear. just something extra to confuse you point is, I'd go for 4g.

2, from what I can gather, your just starting in car audio. for this reason, you may not notice the sound differences between a cheap high to low or a quality one. and why spend big on something if your not going to notice the difference out benefit? so I suggest you jump on eBay for this one and grab something cheap. please understand, I'm not having a go at you, I'm just suggesting the best option for you with love

3, you need to connect the high to low in parallel with the speaker, taking note of the positive wire and soldering it according to the high to low requirements. it doesn't matter where you take the signal from, e.g close to the speaker of straight from the head unit, as long as the polarity is right, especially when the signal is going to a sub. I'm very surprised your car doesn't have rear panel speakers in the walls you can take the signal from? remember, where possible, use solder and heat shrink!

4, as for what's the best prefab box? that's a toughy. first a word on boxes, you may already know all this but if you don't then this may be useful. first, a correctly designed sealed box will always be smaller then a ported box. that's simply how the physics works. keep this in mind when choosing what a box for your little car. next look at the parameters of the subs. most will tell you how big the box should be. they show this in liters or cubic feet which gives you the volume of air that is meant to be inside the box to match the speaker. it should give you a ported volume and a sealed volume. if it doesn't, look for the t/s parameters ( thiele small parameters). simply google the word "speaker box calculator". click one and throw those t/s parameters into it and you will get the volume of air that needs to be in the box.

back to box theory. basically, if your sealed box is a few liters out, no matter, the sound difference is will not be altered too badly. but with a ported box, a few liters to small and you will start to run into a few noticeable sound problems. additionally, the port must be matched with the speaker reasonably actually, both in length and diameter or again, you will run into detrimental sound issues. next question, what's the chances that a prefab box is going to match up nicely with the speaker? not high. so based on what I mentioned before, it is probably better for you to choose a prefab box because if it is a little out, the sound quality won't be as effected as the ported box is a little out.

sorry it's not a straight answer, but I think the theory is quite important to note if you want it to sound good.

as for the fuse, again using the audio toolkit Pro app, your amp should draw a maximum of about 44.4amps so a 50 amp fuse should be fine, but if suggest asking the store or looking up how much current (measured in amps or amperes, which are synonymous) on the amp specifications. time for more theory! the fuse is there to protect the battery and nothing else. if for some crazy reason the positive wire shorts on the car chassis, or the amp gets wet and shorts out positive and negative or for some reason the positive wire works loose in the engine bay and touches the exhaust and melts through the insulation and shorts.. worst case senario your battery will explode because the high current of the positive being shorted directly with the chassis negative. if this happens after the fuse, the fuse will explode, not the battery, cutting the power to the wire instantly and saving the battery. if this happens before the fuse, then there is nothing between the short and the battery to take the damage and the battery will get damaged. so always put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. while my crazy examples are very unlikely, if they do happen, your the one who will be wearing battery acid.

when it comes to concealing wires and such perhaps use hifi coaxial wires instead of car hifi wires. reason being is that most car hifi leads look very bright, showy and eye catching while home hifi cables are often dull, Matt, and dark colors. they may appear more like stock wires then some shiny bright blue cables. as I mentioned before, Anderson plugs may be your friend as they can handle allot of current, but are (relatively) easy to disconnect so you don't have bare wires to deal with, and is all round more professional.

good luck! hope I wasn't too confusing
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