Well guys, I know it's the worst case scenario possible to make bass but I will point out the facts:
Space is very limited, I am looking to go (1) sub (10")?, open air at times, and limited to 400watts. (sub channel on an alpine PDX-5)
My initial thoughts were to find/build something in the smallest ported box that I could get away with. Others have suggested a down firing small sealed box.
I do NOT expect much SPL at all, but if it can fill in down to 50hz to supplement the 2 sets of 6.5" JL audio C-5 components I would be happy. I hate to say it but it almost looks like a Bazooka tube may fit the bill since its ABS plastic (whatever I build or buy will have to be somewhat weather resistant in case it gets rained on), small, etc..etc. and may carry a bit better with the top off since it's ported.
I have been looking for an efficient 10" that might go well in a small ported box but not much luck on finding a decent driver or slim/small box design. The JL Audio Microsub looks to fit the bill but I would rather build it. I have considered a passive radiator design too but don't know much about building them. I have built many sealed/ported boxes but I don't think a 10" in a small sealed box is going to cut it here. I may be wrong though.
I'm at somewhat of a loss at what to do. Whatever it is needs to be small but able to be somewhat heard with the top off. I dont expect super low or super loud but just "there" would be nice.
Space is very limited, I am looking to go (1) sub (10")?, open air at times, and limited to 400watts. (sub channel on an alpine PDX-5)
My initial thoughts were to find/build something in the smallest ported box that I could get away with. Others have suggested a down firing small sealed box.
I do NOT expect much SPL at all, but if it can fill in down to 50hz to supplement the 2 sets of 6.5" JL audio C-5 components I would be happy. I hate to say it but it almost looks like a Bazooka tube may fit the bill since its ABS plastic (whatever I build or buy will have to be somewhat weather resistant in case it gets rained on), small, etc..etc. and may carry a bit better with the top off since it's ported.
I have been looking for an efficient 10" that might go well in a small ported box but not much luck on finding a decent driver or slim/small box design. The JL Audio Microsub looks to fit the bill but I would rather build it. I have considered a passive radiator design too but don't know much about building them. I have built many sealed/ported boxes but I don't think a 10" in a small sealed box is going to cut it here. I may be wrong though.
I'm at somewhat of a loss at what to do. Whatever it is needs to be small but able to be somewhat heard with the top off. I dont expect super low or super loud but just "there" would be nice.
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Can you provide us with some dedicated dimensions we can work with? A volume of space you figure where the sub should go. Do you have the removable hard-top or the soft-top?
The dedicated so-called "car subs" depend on what's called "cabin gain".......mounting such subs in the back use the structure of the car as a horn somewhat, accentuating a specific frequency band.
400 Watts of power is plenty to work with BTW.
If your choice of location is the space behind the rear bench seat.....and you have the soft-top........You got big problems ahead.
_____________________________________________________Rick........
The dedicated so-called "car subs" depend on what's called "cabin gain".......mounting such subs in the back use the structure of the car as a horn somewhat, accentuating a specific frequency band.
400 Watts of power is plenty to work with BTW.
If your choice of location is the space behind the rear bench seat.....and you have the soft-top........You got big problems ahead.
_____________________________________________________Rick........
Look into the JL TW5 and TW3 shallow mount series.
Ported in my opinion is not a good option for you considering space limitations, after all a ported box has to be much larger than a sealed one for the same sub to sound correct. A ported box is not just any sealed box with a hole. Personally I recommend going with the biggest sub you can fit in a sealed box in your space requirements.
The ultimate solutions would probably be a quality 8" driver like the JL 8 W7 in a sealed box if space allows, as for weather proofing, again sealed makes sense to cover and seal off the subwoofer internals, the w7 series by JL have the foam surround go above the screws that hold the woofer to the baffle, so you should have a rain proof sub right there.
Either purchase an all weather enclosure or cover your own with some bedliner or something similar. Use a bead of caulk around the baffle to prevent water from getting inside the box. Bolt the box down with gaskets/washers and seal around the bottom of the box as well. If you really need extra weather protection I would build a box with a mini "roof" protruding from the enclosure to keep the sub away from the rain etc. make sure to follow the other steps on top of that.
Conclusion: Get a high qaulity 8" instead of a cheap 10", you are only planning on using 400 watts so a good smaller sub will be better than a larger sub thats underpowered and hardly fits.
400 watts would be good for any of the subs I mentioned assuming you are talking about 400 watts clean RMS power.
Ported in my opinion is not a good option for you considering space limitations, after all a ported box has to be much larger than a sealed one for the same sub to sound correct. A ported box is not just any sealed box with a hole. Personally I recommend going with the biggest sub you can fit in a sealed box in your space requirements.
The ultimate solutions would probably be a quality 8" driver like the JL 8 W7 in a sealed box if space allows, as for weather proofing, again sealed makes sense to cover and seal off the subwoofer internals, the w7 series by JL have the foam surround go above the screws that hold the woofer to the baffle, so you should have a rain proof sub right there.
Either purchase an all weather enclosure or cover your own with some bedliner or something similar. Use a bead of caulk around the baffle to prevent water from getting inside the box. Bolt the box down with gaskets/washers and seal around the bottom of the box as well. If you really need extra weather protection I would build a box with a mini "roof" protruding from the enclosure to keep the sub away from the rain etc. make sure to follow the other steps on top of that.
Conclusion: Get a high qaulity 8" instead of a cheap 10", you are only planning on using 400 watts so a good smaller sub will be better than a larger sub thats underpowered and hardly fits.
400 watts would be good for any of the subs I mentioned assuming you are talking about 400 watts clean RMS power.
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