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Old 7th May 2013, 08:54 PM   #1
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Default amp repair help needed

anyone reading thank you for your time i need help fixing this amp i got next to nothing for the one picture is of the fried side of the am on the opsing side is the other picture it looks to have the same componets of the side thats fried
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Old 7th May 2013, 11:16 PM   #2
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make?
model?

Pictures?
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Pyramid 52 Amp Power Supply----Fluke 787 Processmeter----Tektronix 465 Scope----Velleman HPS40 Scope----Soldering Iron----Desoldering Iron----Hejet HJ 500-S Heatgun----DM4070 Digital LCR Meter----Propane Torch
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Old 8th May 2013, 12:13 AM   #3
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its a farenheit amp by poweracoustik 1500 watt max q2-1500
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File Type: jpg IMAG0005.jpg (603.5 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0007.jpg (465.9 KB, 120 views)
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Old 8th May 2013, 12:48 AM   #4
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Looks like output transistors have gone.

You need to replace the blown ones then check the driver circuit is OK before powering it up.
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Old 8th May 2013, 02:18 AM   #5
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That looks like power supply to me.

Shorted outputs could cause this.

New power supply fets
New gate resistors
New drivers

Quick check for shorted outputs and drivers.

Why did the amp fail?

What did or didn't it do?

How did you have it hooked up?

What did you have it hooked up to?
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Old 8th May 2013, 01:39 PM   #6
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i had it hooked up to two 15 subs cheap ones that are like 400 watt a peice the amp when it was workig is strong i had it all the way down and it pushed hard thats why i want to fix it i have some electronic repair skills not enough to identify the parts needed to replace but unsoldering them and putting new ones in i can do sorry about my spelling i had the amp hooked and mounted to the back of the rear seat of my jeep i guess it shorted when my fat friend jumped on my back seat the numbers on the one are irf244abut i can find a place to buy those parts the resistors i just cant iidentify them cause have no clue how to tell any help would be appreciated
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Old 8th May 2013, 01:42 PM   #7
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i can post more pics if you guys need like i said i love this amp its strong and like ive read in this forums this generation is about throwing stuff out thats not me i would rather fix a good thing then throw it out why spend money when you can just fix it your self and it work
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Old 8th May 2013, 01:52 PM   #8
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What you show is typical damage for mobile amplifiers. The power supply switching transistors always burn up in spectactular fashion. This is true of switching transistors in switching supplies in general; I have seen the exact same thing in commercial emergency flourescent lighting systems. Check the parts that Sean mentioned. Replace the damaged parts, power it up, and compare the voltages from the repaired side of the circuit to the voltages on the functional side. If they match, you're probably in the clear.

There will be an AC signal of typically 400 Hz on either the collector or emitter of the switching transistors.
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Old 9th May 2013, 04:18 AM   #9
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Okay im a bit of a noob at identifying resisters and componets can some one give me a crash course on how to identufy the parts i need
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Old 9th May 2013, 06:58 AM   #10
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Click the links appropriate to your learning curve needs below:

Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

Perry Babin has put together a fast and easy learning curve for folks at you level of electronics. I suggest you visit his web site, and partake of his expetise in both car amps and basic training for folks like yourself. It will save you time in the long run and keep the thread post focused on your most important issues at hand by allowing you to tackle this failure at your own speed. And if you get a chance perhaps you can thank Perry for all of his hard work and contribution to your repair needs.

Thank you Perry for allowing me to use your links in this thread post, and for all your contributions to this forum and its members...

By the way your power supply failed half of its primary switching Fets, also expect the gate lead resistors to be burnt up and the gate lead driver transistor if used to also have failed. This sort of failure is compound in nature, meaning that you likely have blown outputs in the amp also. The burnt components are simply a symptom of a root cause for this damage. You will need to learn how to use a digital meter, and test components to verify that are functional and at spec to the color codes printed on then. I wish it was easier but this is something that usually takes a fair amount of training and experience to deal with. Perry's website pulls a ton of what you need to know all together in a format you can absorb at your own speed. His DVD is also even more detailed with info, and well worth your attention. What he covers you will need to know for any of us here to guide you thru the hard questions you will run into as you progress thru this repair. There are many contributing member's here to help you but, you must master some of this on your own first for any of us to be or real help to you....I hope some of this helps you...
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