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Old 9th May 2013, 09:08 AM   #11
Brams96 is offline Brams96  United Kingdom
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I think you'll find they are IRFZ44 transistors which can be upgraded to IRF3205's which can handle twice the current. Upgrading any electrolytic caps with higher voltage ratings will also increase reliability.
Make sure you clean the whole area properly & use fresh heat sink compound on all components when you refit the board to the case.
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Old 9th May 2013, 02:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1moreamp View Post
Click the links appropriate to your learning curve needs below:

Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

Perry Babin has put together a fast and easy learning curve for folks at you level of electronics. I suggest you visit his web site, and partake of his expetise in both car amps and basic training for folks like yourself. It will save you time in the long run and keep the thread post focused on your most important issues at hand by allowing you to tackle this failure at your own speed. And if you get a chance perhaps you can thank Perry for all of his hard work and contribution to your repair needs.

Thank you Perry for allowing me to use your links in this thread post, and for all your contributions to this forum and its members...

By the way your power supply failed half of its primary switching Fets, also expect the gate lead resistors to be burnt up and the gate lead driver transistor if used to also have failed. This sort of failure is compound in nature, meaning that you likely have blown outputs in the amp also. The burnt components are simply a symptom of a root cause for this damage. You will need to learn how to use a digital meter, and test components to verify that are functional and at spec to the color codes printed on then. I wish it was easier but this is something that usually takes a fair amount of training and experience to deal with. Perry's website pulls a ton of what you need to know all together in a format you can absorb at your own speed. His DVD is also even more detailed with info, and well worth your attention. What he covers you will need to know for any of us here to guide you thru the hard questions you will run into as you progress thru this repair. There are many contributing member's here to help you but, you must master some of this on your own first for any of us to be or real help to you....I hope some of this helps you...

i have seen and used his site to identify resistors and other parts i have not used it in awhile thank you so much for your help with this now its time to get down to the nitty gritty with this i know im going to need to replace almost half a dozen parts or more on this i actually enjoy doing things like this i have skills with a multimeter so thats nt an issue its identifying the resistors thats a pain like i said im not the type to throw things out so im going to give it a go at fixing this dose anyone have advice about upgrading alot of thes parts for batter life span i need to figure out why the amp did not go into protect mode when it got into a critical state.
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Old 9th May 2013, 03:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brams96 View Post
I think you'll find they are IRFZ44 transistors which can be upgraded to IRF3205's which can handle twice the current. Upgrading any electrolytic caps with higher voltage ratings will also increase reliability.
Make sure you clean the whole area properly & use fresh heat sink compound on all components when you refit the board to the case.
now with upgrading thats to the irf3205s that dose not change the power rating or what not would i nee to upgrade the resistors and power supply also or are the a direct upgrade. im also looking to upgrade the resistors also for better heat transference. im going into this for the long haul i want this amp to last long years so any upgrade advice would help consider gratefull to no end
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Old 9th May 2013, 04:12 PM   #14
Brams96 is offline Brams96  United Kingdom
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I'd keep the ohm value the same but put higher wattage resistors in. A lot of amps seem to use Samyoung electrolytic caps which, if the amp is older, can leak causing problems. Upgrading these with the likes of Nichicon, Panasonic or Elna will make it more reliable.
Check out this Face Book page & the comments on the pictures to get an idea of what can fail & how they are repaired. https://www.facebook.com/TheAmpDoctorLtd
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Old 13th May 2013, 04:42 PM   #15
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Thank u to everyone in helping me with this project I am however having trouble identifyingtwo of the resistors in this amp I will post pics of the two but just an update I have replace wo of the resistors needed I just can't find these or identify the colors on the others I also am figuring I must replace the two rectifyer also
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Old 18th May 2013, 04:59 AM   #16
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okay thank you for everyones help so far i have just recieved the resistors actually price was not bad at all 8 bucks for ten i am replacing both power source sides i just figured you replace one should replace all but my question is if all these parts are so damn cheap then why in the flaming hell are amps so damn expesive i was talking to this guy today about his sons amp and he paid 300 for his whitch is rediculously expesive when i know he could have gotten it cheaper is more cost effective just to build your own
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Old 18th May 2013, 10:14 PM   #17
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Please help once more my resitors and the transisters came in replced all works fine except left channel witch now has a crackle to it heckd head unit works grate with other amp
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Old 22nd May 2013, 02:38 AM   #18
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Is the side of the power supply that failed the same side as the problem channel now?
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Old 22nd May 2013, 02:42 AM   #19
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Yes it was but after consulting the amp doctor I found out the surge went back to my hu and surged the ground after warping a strand of copper wire around my low out puts it considerably fixed the problem
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