Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > General Interest > Car Audio

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th March 2013, 10:25 AM   #1
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
Default Diamond Audio D3.1000.1

Hello

I got two of these amps, one had blown power supply transistors, the other has also blown output transistors. Amp uses HIP4080 chip and output transistors are P40NF10. Hifonics amps use IRF3710's and IRF3415's as outputs and those I have at hand. P40NF10 I would have to order.
Is it good idea to test with IRF3710's or should I order the originals to be safe.

Maybe these P40NF10's are good replacement to other HIP4080 amps which are picky about outputs?
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th March 2013, 10:28 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
The 3710Z would be my choice. The non-Z version isn't likely to work properly. The 3415 will also work but is rated for less current than the 3710Z.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 06:59 PM   #3
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
I still did not have the time to start with this amplifier but I have another Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 at hand. It came with blown PS FETs (IRFZ44N), some of the gate resistors were toast and board near the drivers for FETs showed signs that they have been running hot.
I cleaned everything up, replaced gate resistors (47 ohm), replaced all PS FETs, most of them were blown to pieces, replaced drivers with BD139 and BD140. Checked if it would work with my power supply. It did, clean audio, no problems. Then I took it to my car, it played music but also started smoking - one of the new IRFZ44N's failed. I suspected that maybe leg of the transistor was touching clip. I cut the failed transistor out, others were not shorted. I ran out of IRFZ44N's so I tried the amp without this one FET, again on the bench it worked, as soon as I hooked it up in my car it started smoking again. IRFZ44N from another bank failed.
I removed the failed FET, checked other FETs and gate resistors, everything seemed to be in order. Measured current draw: at first amp draws 0,55A when idling, shortly after the relay engages current draw slowly starts to rise and rises up to 1,60A and stays there.
PS FETs were not clamped to heatsink, they did not get hot, audio sections transistors did not get hot.
Picture of gate signal is attached (sorry for the poor quality), scope setting 5V/5us.
Does the signal look OK?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC01173.JPG (77.4 KB, 100 views)
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th March 2013, 01:23 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
Do you have any DC voltage on the shields of the RCA jacks?

If you twist the transformer, does that change the current draw or the DC on the RCA jacks?
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th March 2013, 04:20 PM   #5
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
Black probe on GND terminal, red probe on RCA shield: 0,004V
Twisted the transformer as hard as I could, voltage was the same, current draw did not increase either.

I may have had a ground issue in the car. Yesterday the ground cable fell out of the cable connector. This time I soldered the cable on the connector, not just crimp it together.

Will try again in car when I get some new IRFZ44N's.
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th March 2013, 10:34 AM   #6
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
Replaced the two IRFZ44Ns, their gate resistors, tried the amp out with power supply. Current draw 1,6A, amp was out of the sink and no component got hot.
Installed it in the car and for now it works.

About the other Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 which had blown outputs. Ordered the original replacements (P40NF10), replaced all of them, borrowed HIP4080 from working amp but did not get the amp run properly. It drew 4,5A of current when idling. Outputs got hot quickly, even when clamped to heatsink.
Replaced the brand new P40NF10s with IRF3710Z-s, current draw dropped to 1,2A outputs stay cool without the sink and amp produces audio.
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd July 2013, 09:03 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Hi, would need to find 13 feet of black elongated body on top of the component symbol?

Perhaps it is usualy also provide a link or something to be a black body component?
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2013, 06:40 AM   #8
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
I do not understand the questions...
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2013, 07:39 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Hi, what is driver output mark?

whether it is possible to find it somewhere in the scheme?


this component is 13 pin, and is black in color, rectangular in shape
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2013, 08:10 AM   #10
Mote is offline Mote  Estonia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
Still I do not know what you are asking.

Seems like you are asking what is the driver for outputs. This amp uses HIP4080, but it has 20 pins, not 13. Your name seems Estonian. You can write the question in Estonian as long as you add translation to english. Also you can contact me via personal message or email: mote (at) planet.ee
__________________
Tools: Perrys tutorial, C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Diamond D3 1100.1 driver board brandes.cm Car Audio 10 8th July 2013 07:32 AM
Diamond D3 1000.1 issue mbates14 Car Audio 6 6th December 2012 01:33 AM
Diamond D3 1000.1 schematic brandes.cm Car Audio 3 1st March 2012 06:20 PM
Diamond Audio D3 600.1 basshead2010 Car Audio 14 21st December 2011 10:44 PM
Diamond Audio D3 or MB Quart DSC? MisterTedster Car Audio 2 3rd November 2009 02:15 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:54 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2