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Old 20th February 2013, 08:33 PM   #11
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http://www.bcae1.com/temp/IMG_8512.jpg

For the fan, if you can't find an original, a blower/squirrel-cage fan may provide better air flow than a standard brushless fan.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/jpegs/IMG_7017b.jpg
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:52 PM   #12
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Perry,

thanks for the pic..once again you have come through.

I am going to remove the soldered in fuses someone installed. do you know what amp fuses these were originally? 3A, 5A, 7A?
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:54 PM   #13
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I think the early ones shipped with 7.5 amp fuses but most users had to go to 10 amp because they were blowing under normal operating conditions.
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Old 20th February 2013, 09:58 PM   #14
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Perry,

what is your process for repairing circuit boards that are burnt or have a hole burnt through it?

Do you try and epoxy it and re-drill the pre-existing holes for the resistors and diodes. Do run jumper wires where the traces are gone. Or can you buy copper traces that can be placed in the epoxy before it dries? Just wondering if you had to got to that extreme before.
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Old 20th February 2013, 11:44 PM   #15
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I guess it depends on the owner. I have used epoxy type material to fill the holes after removing all of the carbonized material. I've also just run jumpers over the holes (again, after removing all of the carbonized material).

You can't really use normal epoxy if you're ever going to heat it. Well... you can but the mercaptan makes it extremely unpleasant. JB Weld works much better but dries slowly. You won't be able to do anything with it for about 15-20 hours.

If you want the top of the board to have a smooth surface (where it's filled), apply packing tape over the hole and fill the hole from the other side. Sometimes, you have to apply it all around the edges before taping and filling from the other side to ensure that you get a good bond to the perimeter of the hole.
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Old 22nd February 2013, 04:11 PM   #16
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Perry or sean,

Do either of you have pics of the bottom..this amp is definitely labor intensive. Looks like the person who worked on htis used silcone chaulk instead of heatsink grease.
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Old 22nd February 2013, 04:23 PM   #17
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I don't have any photos of that area. Clean it carefully with acetone and a toothbrush. It may look worse than it is.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 04:11 PM   #18
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perry or sean,

Is it okay to use irf540 for the n ch's and 9540 for the p ch's? Can i also use IRF3205 for the powersupply mosfets? i cleaned the board and removed a lot of the components to gain access to the burned areas. i reflowed the surface of the burned traces. i have a good idea for the top of the board but a little concerned about a few areas. Sean if you have a pic of the bottom of the board that would be awesome. going to orders some resistors today and some d41 and d40's. i will post a pic of the cleaned board later this after
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Old 23rd February 2013, 04:11 PM   #19
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perry or sean,

Is it okay to use irf540 for the n ch's and 9540 for the p ch's? Can i also use IRF3205 for the powersupply mosfets? i cleaned the board and removed a lot of the components to gain access to the burned areas. i reflowed the surface of the burned traces. i have a good idea for the top of the board but a little concerned about a few areas. Sean if you have a pic of the bottom of the board that would be awesome. going to orders some resistors today and some d41 and d40's. i will post a pic of the cleaned board later this after
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Old 23rd February 2013, 04:20 PM   #20
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Yes IRF540 and IRF9540 will work just fine as a sub for the outputs.

I think I would stick with the original transistors in the power supply, they are still readily available. I think the IRF3205's are harder for this amp to drive. See what Perry thinks though.
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