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Old 6th February 2013, 06:20 PM   #11
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Perry,

While i had D11 lifted I powered up the output board and all the outputs seemed to be working. It actually produced clean power. Although the voltage on the outputs were a little lower than expected. Half of them around 34V and the rest around 30V. I did notice the amp draw increased from 3amps to about 8.5amps with no load.
next, i powered down and soldered D11 back down and now i am getting the correct rail voltage. ~112vdc. My only concern is the amp draw with no load.
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Old 6th February 2013, 08:43 PM   #12
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I think the bigger problem is why the problem is inconsistent. Can you move the various cables or push on the board in various places and get the voltage or current to change?
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Old 6th February 2013, 11:22 PM   #13
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sorry maybe i was unclear. the 2 to 3 amp draw was with the hv cables disconnected from the output board. When the HV cables are connected to the output board it holds at 8 amps. tried pressing on certain areas and no change. kinda weird. Do you think replacing all the outputs would on the out put board would help with the current draw at idle. i tested all the outputs prior to the sound test. I know no two amps are the same. i Will replace Q12 and check it again in the morning
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Old 6th February 2013, 11:25 PM   #14
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I don't think that 8 amps is too much. Power it up and let it idle for 10-20 minutes. If it stays relatively cool and produces clean audio, I think it's probably OK.
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Old 7th February 2013, 11:56 AM   #15
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Perry,

Do you usually run amps you repair with subwoofers for a load or do use sime kind of test load? What is your setup. Can I use a 2 ohm high wattage resistor or some kind of coil of of a speaker cone?
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Old 7th February 2013, 05:24 PM   #16
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All amps get burned in. The burn-in type depends on what was repaired in the amp.

I use both subs and dummy loads. For higher power, long term testing, I use the dummy loads. If an amp had a noise or some intermittent problem, I'll listen to it with speakers or a sub.

I use multiple 100 watt tubular ceramic wire-wound resistors for testing. With a lot of air flowing over them, they can easily handle much more than their rated power.

I use multiple paralleled 12v power supplies generally for power but I also have a battery that I can switch in for large amps or amps that easily go into protection (JLs are the most sensitive).

All amps get run to hard clipping for at least 5 minutes. After that, I generally let them run at moderate power for about 3 hours.
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Old 7th February 2013, 06:31 PM   #17
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any particular resistance value for the 100 watt loads?
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Old 7th February 2013, 06:54 PM   #18
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I use two 2 ohm resistors in series and parallel the series'd pairs to get to the load that I want.

You can use higher power resistors. These are what I purchased when amps weren't so powerful and since I haven't been able to burn them out, that's what I continue to use.

Bear in mind that I test with music up to and sometimes into clipping for long term testing (hours). I also avoid really large amps. The largest amps that I normally have to bench are the ones rated at 5500 watts (power acoustic ratings). If you are going to test amplifiers that can really produce thousands of watts and are going to do long term testing with a sine wave (tougher than with music), you'll need resistors rated to handle the true power output of the amp.

Another problem that you run into is supplying power to the amp. It's very difficult to supply 12v to an amp that's capable of more than about 3000 watts for long term testing. Batteries will drop in voltage quickly and standard wall outlets are not capable of supplying more than about 1500 watts. To get more power, you have to use multiple mains circuits and multiple power supplies or a 220v supply.
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Old 7th February 2013, 10:07 PM   #19
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currently i have a 52amp pyramid powersupply that i purchased on ebay for around $100. It was producing 14 but the voltage has dropped to 11.5 in the last few days and the voltage adjustment knob goes from 12 to 15, has no effect on output. I am building a setup with 2 car batteries with the powersupply so i sustain and adequate current draw.
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Old 8th February 2013, 07:45 AM   #20
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Don't forget appropriate fuses at the batteries.

How long have you had that pyramid? Someone else was having trouble with one that they recently purchased.
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