I have my iPad mounted to a RAM floor mount which is in the way of my seat moving forward and shakes a lot. I plan to literally jam some wood in my HU DIN slot and screw a new ipad mount base to that. All of the parts are ready.
Right now my ipad outputs through a 30-pin to a JL Audio line driver then to an EQ inside my dash, then to my Alpine FRP-300 amp (or similar model). This setup has worked perfectly for months now.
When I delete the HU I will loose the remote line, first of all, can I just wire the existing remote line directly into the car's side of the radio harness? I assumed there would be no action because there is no radio on the other end to complete the connection.
I read some amps don't like 12v on the remote line, is it possible to buy a 12v-5v or 3v converter and then run off of that plus add in a toggle? Can I run the amp remote off of the ignition and eliminate the toggle?
Also, before I go out and make a radio sized block of wood, are there any better ways of blocking off the DIN slot and providing a good solid base to put four 2-3" long screws into? I need to make sure this ipad mount won't go anywhere.
Right now my ipad outputs through a 30-pin to a JL Audio line driver then to an EQ inside my dash, then to my Alpine FRP-300 amp (or similar model). This setup has worked perfectly for months now.
When I delete the HU I will loose the remote line, first of all, can I just wire the existing remote line directly into the car's side of the radio harness? I assumed there would be no action because there is no radio on the other end to complete the connection.
I read some amps don't like 12v on the remote line, is it possible to buy a 12v-5v or 3v converter and then run off of that plus add in a toggle? Can I run the amp remote off of the ignition and eliminate the toggle?
Also, before I go out and make a radio sized block of wood, are there any better ways of blocking off the DIN slot and providing a good solid base to put four 2-3" long screws into? I need to make sure this ipad mount won't go anywhere.
You could wire it up a couple of ways. Remote turn on is always 12v low amperage. TO constant 12v off a switch, to an accessory 12v wire in the vehicle, or even an ignition 12v. I would normally find an accessory. Most the time off of the 12v socket. many modern cars use an accessory output on them now so they only power up with the key on. as far as a bezel, buy an aftermarket radio installation kit to build on. then it will typically be attached to the car at the stock mounting points and it's easy than fabing the entire thing up.
I've never heard of a car amp remote line operating on anything other than 12V. You should be fine wiring it to the red ACC wire from the radio harness.
You might want to put some kind of manual/analog volume control between the source and the amp if you're just using the iPads volume control. Not only will it help lower any amplified background noise from the source at low listening levels, it will prevent that one day when you play sound from the ipad with the volume inadvertently maxed out and scare the **** out of yourself (or damage your speakers even).
This is for a Nissan, but maybe you could make fit?...
Nissan FactoryOEM Blank Single Din Panel Cover 68470-60M00 - Nissan 240SX S13 S14 1989-1998
You might want to put some kind of manual/analog volume control between the source and the amp if you're just using the iPads volume control. Not only will it help lower any amplified background noise from the source at low listening levels, it will prevent that one day when you play sound from the ipad with the volume inadvertently maxed out and scare the **** out of yourself (or damage your speakers even).
This is for a Nissan, but maybe you could make fit?...
Nissan FactoryOEM Blank Single Din Panel Cover 68470-60M00 - Nissan 240SX S13 S14 1989-1998
Don't forget to insert an appropriate fuse in the remote line.
As a side note, there some OEM systems (Mazda?) that used a ground to switch on OEM amps. I wish amp manufacturers would have used ground switching instead of 12v for remote turn-on. It sure would have prevented a lot of damage to head unit remote output circuits.
As a side note, there some OEM systems (Mazda?) that used a ground to switch on OEM amps. I wish amp manufacturers would have used ground switching instead of 12v for remote turn-on. It sure would have prevented a lot of damage to head unit remote output circuits.
I use THIS as a volume knob. It is powered so the signal going to the EQ then the amp is a nice clean signal.
The HU is a kenwood or pioneer that has been there since 08. The kind where you had to buy a bluetooth plug-in and a sat radio plug in. It is obnoxious and bright and the EQ sucks, I don't use radio nor CDs.
I figured dedicated hardware = better, or atleast gives me more control.
I don't know what to do about the bezel though, it really needs to be either a steel plate or wood. I can't/don't want to weld and the metal in there is monkey metal. I'll just pull the dash and screw in the wood from the outside of the harness thing to make sure it is super secure.
The HU is a kenwood or pioneer that has been there since 08. The kind where you had to buy a bluetooth plug-in and a sat radio plug in. It is obnoxious and bright and the EQ sucks, I don't use radio nor CDs.
I figured dedicated hardware = better, or atleast gives me more control.
I don't know what to do about the bezel though, it really needs to be either a steel plate or wood. I can't/don't want to weld and the metal in there is monkey metal. I'll just pull the dash and screw in the wood from the outside of the harness thing to make sure it is super secure.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.