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Old 25th January 2013, 01:33 PM   #11
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Do you have a capacitor inline with one of the speaker wires? This is to block dc from entering the test speaker, a 100uf 100v BP is good enough.
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Old 25th January 2013, 03:26 PM   #12
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No, I did not have one inline.. Im not heart broken by the loss, it was only a pyle mid. I will keep that in mind though for further testing.

Thank you for the tip.
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Old 26th January 2013, 01:14 AM   #13
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Okay, so I got home from work and took another look at the amp. I do not see any solder bridges that could be shorting it out, however I will take a more indepth look later.

I pulled the rectifier diodes, they all check out as being ok.

I hooked my meter leads up to the speaker output to measure for DC voltage.

Knowing this had to be a quick operation, I watched carefully.

As soon as I touch the remote wire to 12V to turn the amp on the DC voltage jumped up to 18V. This is before the amplifier turn on light had even been lit.

This problem appears to have started when I began testing the negative rail for voltage.

I suppose I'll start pulling the out puts on this rail to see if there is a short.
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Old 11th February 2013, 06:14 PM   #14
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I have an issue. One of my drivers for the power supply needs replacing.

The bad news is the transistor is a 2N6726, which appears to be a rare beast.

Has anybody swapped in a equivalent transistor in place of one?

I can only find them on ebay in the UK.
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Old 11th February 2013, 06:21 PM   #15
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Here's a couple of leads but don't know if these are the package type you need.
Find 2N6726 Stock and Compare Prices Across the Most Reputable Distributors in the Industry.
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Old 11th February 2013, 07:27 PM   #16
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The MJE172 and the BD140 should be good subs.
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Old 13th February 2013, 03:22 PM   #17
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Hi Perry,

Those parts won't fit. The original is a T0-237 case. Looking at those, it appears they are larger.

How do I test my output transistors? They are 2SC3263 and 2SA1294

I have a new one to compare values to, on diode test I get a reading of 487 on the outer pins of the new one. Doing the same with the ones which are installed, I get a the same readings on only one of them. Of seven transistors, I get a reading of 23 on six of them on the outer pins.
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Old 13th February 2013, 11:08 PM   #18
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I don't remember any amplifier where those transistors would not fit in the location of a smaller (TO-92) case transistor.

Transistor testing is covered on the basic amp repair page (link below).

Testing in the board is unreliable except for transistors that are shorted.
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Old 15th February 2013, 07:24 PM   #19
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Hi Perry,

The location that these two transistors occupy is quite tight.

Anyways,

I have acquired another amplifier that is blown, same make.

This is in much better repair than the last. I powered it up with the head light in series, and it turns on then off and the protect light flashes. (more than the other would do)

I pulled the outputs off one side of the board, (negative rail I believe) and it would power on, and the power light would stay lit. However I still had 1.2V of DC voltage on speaker out.

I pulled the outputs off the positive rail, and the DC is still there on speaker out, except I notice it drops from 1.2 down to about .98 after 10-20 seconds of being on.

I have tested the outputs, but I have a meter that is really inexpensive, and diode testing gives me a reading of 487 on the old ones, as well as on brand new control sample. There is no decimal reading. So according to that, all the outputs are fine. However I have no way of knowing based on 487, when there is supposed to be a reading on diode test of .6V.

Whats the next step?
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Old 15th February 2013, 07:58 PM   #20
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I didn't bother to check the pin configuration and the ones I recommended aren't the same so they wouldn't be a drop-in replacement. I should have checked.

Start a new thread for the second amp.
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