Hey everyone. As you can tell, this is my first post. I am coming to you for help. I have a 12' JL Audio subwoofer installed in my car. As of late, it started working only when it wanted to. I was thinking it was because it was extremely cold(30 degrees) that the subwoofer was sort of "freezing up" and just had to warm up. I guess not. One day it just stopped working. I checked all the fuses, redid all the wiring, and still nothing. Come to find out this wire under the cone just snapped. I'm guessing it got really cold and the subwoofer rocking it back and forth caused it to snap clean off. How can I fix this? If you don't believe I can, which I hardly can, then how much would it cost a shop to fix it? If it helps, I use a 360w JL Audio amp. Here are some pictures of the subwoofer/wire.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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It may be difficult to solder. Some of the lead-in wires are aluminum or an alloy that doesn't take solder easily. Even if you can solder it, it will likely wick up a bit of solder which would effectively shorten it.
To get it repaired properly, you may have to send it to JL. If it's under warranty, they may repair it free except for shipping.
To get it repaired properly, you may have to send it to JL. If it's under warranty, they may repair it free except for shipping.
The problem with the "spider wires" are they have to be VERY FLEXIBLE.
Because of this you dont want solder to be wicked up the wire making it solid. These connections are often crimped for that very reason.
You may be able to solder it back onto the post but make sure that you use a heat-shunt to stop the solder flowing up the wire.
Because of this you dont want solder to be wicked up the wire making it solid. These connections are often crimped for that very reason.
You may be able to solder it back onto the post but make sure that you use a heat-shunt to stop the solder flowing up the wire.
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Thanks for all the replies! I have some experience soldering electronics, but I've never soldered at this kind of angle. I'm going to contact JL and local shops to see how much they charge, and if they charge a lot, then I'll do it myself.
And as for it being under warrenty, it isn't. This sub is about 2-3 years old. I bought it from my sister a year ago with the amp and all the wiring for $100 and my old iPod touch. Good deal in my opinion
And as for it being under warrenty, it isn't. This sub is about 2-3 years old. I bought it from my sister a year ago with the amp and all the wiring for $100 and my old iPod touch. Good deal in my opinion
If I could just point out one observation:
Studying your pictures, it looks like the lead wires are sleeved with a black insulation. Could you please confirm this? I can't recall ever seeing that done - in my experience the flex leads on speakers are always bare (uninsulated). So, unless this insulating sleeve is some very soft silicone material, I could see it adding considerable stiffness - especially when it gets extremely cold. (You did mean -30 degrees, right?) The resulting stiffer lead wires would - I think - concentrate the flexing right at the connection points; i.e.: at the outer end where yours failed and/or the inner end where it meets the cone.
What I'm getting at is that even if you successfully re-solder that broken joint, there is a good chance of premature failure of that same or one of the other joints.
If it was me, I'd be looking at slitting that insulating sleeve off. If that didn't go well, one could always replace the leads with better ones. Any opinions from some seasoned speaker techs?
And finally - If you're not comfortable attempting this level of surgery yourself, do try to find someone to give you a hand with it. Otherwise - remember that if it's already broken, how much worse can you make it by fixing it? At worst, it will still be broken but you'll have improved your DIY skills for the next time around!
Studying your pictures, it looks like the lead wires are sleeved with a black insulation. Could you please confirm this? I can't recall ever seeing that done - in my experience the flex leads on speakers are always bare (uninsulated). So, unless this insulating sleeve is some very soft silicone material, I could see it adding considerable stiffness - especially when it gets extremely cold. (You did mean -30 degrees, right?) The resulting stiffer lead wires would - I think - concentrate the flexing right at the connection points; i.e.: at the outer end where yours failed and/or the inner end where it meets the cone.
What I'm getting at is that even if you successfully re-solder that broken joint, there is a good chance of premature failure of that same or one of the other joints.
If it was me, I'd be looking at slitting that insulating sleeve off. If that didn't go well, one could always replace the leads with better ones. Any opinions from some seasoned speaker techs?
And finally - If you're not comfortable attempting this level of surgery yourself, do try to find someone to give you a hand with it. Otherwise - remember that if it's already broken, how much worse can you make it by fixing it? At worst, it will still be broken but you'll have improved your DIY skills for the next time around!
I've never really done this type repair, but reading the thread and looking at the pics... how feasible is it to use a short piece of solder braid to "patch" this break? The stump end shouldn't be a problem, and use heat shunts as KatieandDad mentioned to graft onto the cone lead. Does this sound practical, or am I dreaming?
Might be an idea to check the enclosure is right for the driver. Over excurtion causes this fault to happen . Ahh it is for automotive use so i guess it has been over driven and over EQ'd lots.. De solder braid will work for a short time butwont last too long .. What it needs is tinsle wire and that can be a pita to solder
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I contacted a shop that's about 20 minutes from me, and they said they charge $15 for the repair, but if they can't fix it, it's free. I think I'm just going to do that. And to you oswald, they are in some short of heat shrink. And yes, below freezing. I think when it got below freezing it snapped from being played a lot. I don't think I over-exerted it, but I definitely didn't keep it on a low setting.
Go for the $15 repair and call it a day
Yes, it's tinsel wire, but getting a small piece of it (doubt anybody sells less than 1 meter or 1 foot) + mail + learning to solder it properly simply isn't worth it.
Failed in a subwoofer after 3 years?
What's to worry about? It proved incredibly good
Flexible rubber sleeving is not that common but some use it, specially in long excursion woofers, to dampen tinsel wire "crazy" harmonic vibration modes.
You can use the regular type though.
Definitely it's not heat shrink tubing, which is too rigid.
PS: no, it's not solder wick.
Although I go the other way: sometimes when I need solder wick, I grab some tinsel wire odd clippings I keep in a jam jar , wet it with liquid flux (rosin+alcohol) and use it to desolder.
Works like a charm
Yes, it's tinsel wire, but getting a small piece of it (doubt anybody sells less than 1 meter or 1 foot) + mail + learning to solder it properly simply isn't worth it.
Failed in a subwoofer after 3 years?
What's to worry about? It proved incredibly good
Flexible rubber sleeving is not that common but some use it, specially in long excursion woofers, to dampen tinsel wire "crazy" harmonic vibration modes.
You can use the regular type though.
Definitely it's not heat shrink tubing, which is too rigid.
PS: no, it's not solder wick.
Although I go the other way: sometimes when I need solder wick, I grab some tinsel wire odd clippings I keep in a jam jar , wet it with liquid flux (rosin+alcohol) and use it to desolder.
Works like a charm
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