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Old 30th January 2013, 05:30 AM   #51
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The transistor is the temperature sensor. Does the fan run if you turn the pot more clockwise?

Do you have heatsink compound between the transistor and the sink?
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Old 30th January 2013, 05:36 AM   #52
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Yes I applied the compound generously betwwen the transistor and the heat sink.

It was turning faster when I turned the trim pot. I set it so the fan turned then backed it off a little.

The fan is not working at all though now.

Whats the black round barrel looking component on the other side?
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Old 30th January 2013, 05:42 AM   #53
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Probably the thermal cutoff switch.

Do you have voltage on the fan wires?
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Old 30th January 2013, 05:59 AM   #54
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When the trim pot is all the way down I have 2.656 vdc

When the trim pot is all the way up I have 7.36 vdc

Thats not enough to run the fan is it?

Maybe the A06 has failed?
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Old 30th January 2013, 06:17 AM   #55
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Please read #54 first

I think maybe the D41D8 could be defective. I believe it drives the fan.

When the fan is hooked to the wires, the white wire has almost no voltage regardless of the trim pot setting.

If they are unhooked the white wire has a little over 2 vdc at the lowest trim pot setting and 7.36 vdc at the highest trim pot setting.

I have tried a new fan as well, no difference.
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Old 30th January 2013, 07:22 AM   #56
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The D41D8 that drives the fan was defective. I soldered a new one to the pads real quick after removing the old one and then the fan worked sweet.

I neglected to notice that my power and ground wire were still hooked up, so when I was desoldering the old legs of the transistor, my desoldering iron while touching the emitter pad of the D41D8 location touched the big blue cap next to it, melted through the plastic coating and touched the metal casing of the cap.

The power supply growled and drew a little current, then it went away.

I put the amp back together and when I power it up now it draws about 7-8 amps current.

Do you think that cap is now shorted or what else do you think could be affected?

I was done with the amp, and getting in a hurry and making a simple mistake has now cost me this problem. I am bummed!!
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Old 30th January 2013, 07:51 PM   #57
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Please read#56 first.

The amp still produces clean audio, there is no DC on the output bridging wires.

However the bias has to be set higher now to get rid of the noise on the op-amps. Which in turn makes the amp draw more current.

The amp draws about 4 amps current at idle, and with the bias set to get rid of the noise its about 7-8 amps current at idle.

Do you think I damaged something in the feedback circuit?

The 2 op-amps in the feedback circuit dont have any voltage on the pins except for the supply pins.

I am at a loss.

The emitter pad of the D41D8 is what touched the metal casing of the big cap next to it.

What do you think?
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Old 31st January 2013, 01:02 AM   #58
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Is the DC voltage on both power supply pins of both op-amps clean?

Are they at 15v?
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Old 31st January 2013, 04:51 AM   #59
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The positive voltage is at +15.15 vdc

The negative voltage is at -17.23 vdc
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Old 31st January 2013, 05:25 AM   #60
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Please read #59 first.

The heat sink is getting warm from the positive regulator. I believe the positive regulator is getting very warm, although its readings dont seem strange, they look normal.

It has rail at the middle leg, and 15.50 vdc on the outside legs.

Something is making the positive regulator get very hot and I am thinking whatever it is, is causing the issue with the amp.

Thoughts?
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