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Old 18th January 2013, 04:17 AM   #31
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Soldered the jumper, installed the fuses, and still will not power up through the limiter.
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Old 18th January 2013, 09:16 AM   #32
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Are you sure that all transistors are in the correct locations and installed with the proper orientation?

If you try to power it up through the limiter, do the outputs in the defective channel heat up?
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Old 19th January 2013, 04:55 AM   #33
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Are you sure that all transistors are in the correct locations and installed with the proper orientation?

I replaced all RFP18N10 with IRF540

I replaced all RFP12P10 with IRF9540

A56's drive IRF540's
A06's drive IRF9540's

I put everything back as it was just different outputs. The other channel with the new outputs and drivers works fine. Its just this one channel.

If the 2 fuses for that channel are not in it powers fine and nothing heats up.

The rail voltage to the channel is causing the issue.

Im lost?
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Old 19th January 2013, 05:10 AM   #34
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Is it possible that someone else worked on it and got the parts in the wrong place?

Do the outputs get hot when you power it up through the limiter with the fuses in?
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Old 19th January 2013, 05:16 AM   #35
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I compared it to the other 4 Power650's I have and they are all exactly the same locations.

I couldnt answer the second question because the amp will not power up through a limiter with the fuses for that channel installed.

It will only power up through the limiter if the fuses are not installed for that channel.

All the rest of the channels seem fine with their fuses installed. Maybe when the 10uf 50v cap blew or some of the resistors burned it damaged the drivers?

Maybe I should try and replace them again?

These boards are so sensitive to heat I dont like changing parts multiple times you know?

I am not sure what to do next.
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Old 19th January 2013, 05:26 AM   #36
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Please read the last post.

I just found a shorted output in that channel. I am beginning to think the static electricity is my problem. These are the same FETS I have used from the same distributor with never any problems before.

OR.......something blew that FET.
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Old 19th January 2013, 05:40 AM   #37
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Please read #35 and #36.

I replaced the output and now the amp will power through the limiter. Nothing seems to be getting warm.

Wierd thing is........I always have battery voltage on the brown wire from that channel, even with the remote unhooked???

When I power the amp it drops to about 10.50 vdc. None of the other channels have this problem.

What could be letting battery voltage to the brown wire of that channel?
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Old 19th January 2013, 06:10 AM   #38
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Do you read a short between the bridge wire from that channel and the B+ wire?
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Old 19th January 2013, 06:53 AM   #39
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OK I figured it out.

1st was the shorted output, replaced that.

Still had the B+ voltage on the brown wire.

Replaced the 10uf 50v cap way out of tolerance.

Still had the B+ on the brown wire.

Started testing all of the legs of of the outputs in that channel.

The only thing that makes any connection with the brown wire is the drains of those 6 outputs.

So obviously it had to becoming from a leaky or shorted FET right?

Wrong!! I found a little itty bitty solder bridge from the source to drain on one of the IRF9540's.

I only saw it through a powerful magifying glass.

It was my own dumb *** mistake. I am so mad at myself.

The amp idles stable, has no DC on the bridging wires, and produces clean audio.
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Old 19th January 2013, 07:41 AM   #40
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If you didnt read post #39 please do.

This amp was extremely noisy through the speakers until the bias was set. Once I set the bias it was very clear and crisp.

Why so noisy like feedback and static without the bias set?

How many mv on the source resistors should I set this amp at to be perfect?

I just eye balled it watching my amp meter on the supply for testing purposes.
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