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Old 22nd December 2012, 07:26 PM   #21
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Sean sorry could you be more specific?

Q226 by PS board is what part?(For replacement)
Q225 by speaker terminals is what part?(For replacement)

I couldn't find Datasheets on those components to find what to swap them with

I've got lots of 139's and 140's so swapping them out with those would be great. Any idea of their function? Are they just switches? Will the characteristics of the replacement be suitable?

Also, my PS board has 1 BE transistor on it (Q2) and 2 marked DF. What is the part number for DF? What is the part number for the smaller Q's marked BR

M
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Old 22nd December 2012, 07:51 PM   #22
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If sean's suggestions don't solve the problem, post the DC voltage on all terminals of IC2 on the power supply driver board.

Q225/226 are used in the DC offset protection circuit.

DF = 2SD1898
BE = 2SB1260
BR = 2SC2412K
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Old 22nd December 2012, 08:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystamo View Post
Sean sorry could you be more specific?

Q226 by PS board is what part?(For replacement)
Q225 by speaker terminals is what part?(For replacement)

I couldn't find Datasheets on those components to find what to swap them with

I've got lots of 139's and 140's so swapping them out with those would be great. Any idea of their function? Are they just switches? Will the characteristics of the replacement be suitable?

Also, my PS board has 1 BE transistor on it (Q2) and 2 marked DF. What is the part number for DF? What is the part number for the smaller Q's marked BR

As Perry said they are used for DC offset protection and they are tied in with those diodes by the speaker terminals and to the pwm board. If the diodes are bad and those 2 transistors are bad it could have the amp in protect.

You can use BD139 and BD140 to replace the Q225 and Q226. You did say the speaker terminal plastic was melted? Sounds like the DC offset protection circuit could be damaged??

M
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Old 24th December 2012, 01:22 AM   #24
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Did you read the last post? Did you replace Q225 and Q226 and the shorted diodes near the speaker terminals?
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Old 24th December 2012, 04:38 AM   #25
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Sean, Perry.. You two are just something special really helpful pair. I hope you guys are living some happy lives.

I took out the 225 and 226 transistors and found that the diodes no longer showed a short. I tested the transistor and sure enough it was shorted. So I I swapped my Q225 and 226 with the 139 and 140 and I got back into business out of protect and showing some pretty nice square waves.
Untitled.jpg

I reinstalled all the P/S fets and powered up and got a steady +-80v at the rectifiers measured to gnd. I then put back the audio card back in and powered up. All was still good. I put all the output fets back and powered up. No smoke .. I get relay engagement. Green light.. Had to read around a while until I found a post perry made on the tools he uses to get the heatsink tabs back on. I didn't realize you actually hammer these things in. .You should have seen me trying to do some wild crazy **** with a C clamp and allan keys. HAHAHA.. after about an hour I opted for the internet and MR.GOOGLE brought me to the right solution posted on DIYA.

Anyways, I'm tired.. not too sure if this thing is going to produce audio or not. But tomorrow I will test it out and add some wires with bullet connectors for the Remote, + and - speaker terminals as I have taken the whole melted section off the amp. It took me forever to clean the fets off and the board to reinstall everything!

All in all. I bet Q225 and Q226 were the only problems here and I didn't even have to take off every single fet and replace my gate transistors for the PS and blow a BE transistor on the PS board due to poking around like a sketch bag.

Regardless. I have good hopes that this thing is going to sing for me tomorrow. I will post back results.

Merry Christmas


Mo
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Old 24th December 2012, 06:10 AM   #26
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You can test the audio with that nice scope on your bench!!!

Download a 100Hz sine wave and burn it to a cd, then hook up a head unit to your power supply and amp. Play the tone and set your scope to 5vd/2ms to start.

Usually I use like 20vd/2ms. Set your crossover on the amp to 100Hz, gain at 1/2, phase to zero, sub sonic in the middle, bass eq to 1/2, selectable switch to output master, use the inputs in the group of 2 not the input by the master slave switch.

This should be a good starting point. You should have a nice sine wave up until it squares when you reach clipping. Dont worry if the wave gets a little choppy after clip its just a little distortion up high!!!

Keep us posted, Merry Christmas!!!
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Old 25th December 2012, 07:23 PM   #27
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Well???
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Old 26th December 2012, 08:37 PM   #28
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Sweet Sweet Amplification Satisfaction! Thanks a lot guys 100hz Tested it on an old sub I had kicking around too.. It didn't smell so hot after it came out of the ring with this amp.. Cheers guys
didit.jpg

Mo
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Old 27th December 2012, 02:40 AM   #29
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Well Done.
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