Power Accoustik Overload protection Problem - diyAudio
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Old 2nd December 2012, 10:57 AM   #1
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Exclamation Power Accoustik Overload protection Problem

Hi have a issue with a power accoustik hmr-800-2x the Protection light and the power light kept coming on when i would give it power no sound nothing so I checked the chips found a short on the channel output i pulled it checked it the power turned on the light was gone so I hooked it up it sounded like it was working fine so i swapped the K718 chips and K688 chips on the amp with the ones were shorted and it turned on seem to be working and all the sudden the amp start flickering from green to red i tapped on the board there was a pop in the speaker then all the sudden the amp turned back on and was working any ideas what kind of problem im having? I ordered 4 T718/T618 replacement chips that replaces all the channel output chips but for some reason it seems like im missing something here possibly a ic chip or a driver issue?
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Old 2nd December 2012, 11:01 AM   #2
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I think i blew up one of my infinity house speakers in the process of testing to thanks to when it was go in and out of protection mode and powering up it started popping next then you know my mid range speaker was crackling if that helps anything i double checked it on my house stereo thinking it was the amp but its shot i think the coil burned up i should have known better but i had nothing else i could test my amps with
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Old 4th December 2012, 01:39 AM   #3
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Hi have a issue with a power accoustik hmr-800-2x the Protection light and the power light kept coming on when i would give it power no sound nothing so I checked the chips found a short on the channel output i pulled it checked it the power turned on the light was gone so I hooked it up it sounded like it was working fine so i swapped the K718 chips and K688 chips on the amp with the ones were shorted and it turned on seem to be working and all the sudden the amp start flickering from green to red i tapped on the board there was a pop in the speaker then all the sudden the amp turned back on and was working any ideas what kind of problem im having? I ordered 4 T718/T618 replacement chips that replaces all the channel output chips but for some reason it seems like im missing something here possibly a ic chip or a driver issue?
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:03 AM   #4
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It may have a bad connection. You need to find a speaker that you can test with that's not going to fail. Alternatively, you can connect a large non-polarized capacitor in series with the speakers to help protect them from excessive DC offset.
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:14 AM   #5
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Well i tapped on these ceramic white block looking resistor things and the sound would pop and go away or kick back in not sure what they call them any ideas? Also i do have some install edge capcitor crossovers for blocking out bass would those be a good supplement to the non polarized capacitors?
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:17 AM   #6
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Crossover capacitors are non-polarized. Do you have any that are around 100uF?

The ceramic components are resistors. They sometimes develop bad solder connections. It's also possible that tapping on them was causing a problem with the solder connections on an adjacent component.
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:28 AM   #7
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There 133uf where would i find some that are around 100 and will they work on any amplifier i work on?

Do you know how i test those does it sound like those are bad maybe resolder them to make sure there nice and tight? I did notice there pretty glue tight to the baord BTW. Also im not sure what they call those ceramic filliments
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:32 AM   #8
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Id really like to get this amp back to working order i was impressed with how well it powered my HE2 12 inch sub
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:36 AM   #9
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The 133uF is OK.

They are used to block DC. They wouldn't allow much low frequencies through but they will allow for general testing. If you're going to work on amplifiers, you will need to buy dummy loads or a speaker that can take a lot of abuse. Generally, you check for DC before you connect a speaker or a load.

The resistors are likely OK. You need to look at the solder connections on their legs to see if any are cracked/overheated. If you find bad solder connections, you need to add new solder, remove all of the solder and then solder the connection again.
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:41 AM   #10
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Would my he2 be a safe speaker for using on when im testing these amps would that be a strong enough to with stand high output currents coming out of my speaker channels?

And thank you ill check the solders and see what i find out do you think that could have been the cause of the amp blowing the output transistors to begin with by having a lose connection like that and if the amp was mounted to the sub box?
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