Power Accoustik Overload protection Problem - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 4th December 2012, 01:54 AM   #11
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Nothing is likely to be foolproof. You have to pay attention to what you're doing. You never want to leave a speaker connected to an amp that has significant DC on the output. If you're careful and attentive, the HE2 will be OK but that doesn't mean that you couldn't blow it with some amps if you weren't paying attention to what you were doing.

Mounting the amp on the speaker enclosure can cause solder connections to fail.
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Old 4th December 2012, 02:04 AM   #12
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do you feel it would be safer in my situation to just go ahead and get me 100uf caps for testing inline with my he2 to be safer and i completely agree with you with the solders failing being attacted to a vibrated hazard normally i try to keep them as far as away from the speaker box as possible i always was afrraid of the magnetic field messing with the transistors myself let alone constant earthquake specially with the bigger subs
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Old 4th December 2012, 04:00 AM   #13
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There is no advantage for the 100uF over the 133uF.
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Old 4th December 2012, 08:54 PM   #14
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I followed your suggests about the board having lose solders on it i added alot of solder on the board double checked the transistors i swapped from the right working channel over to the left channel hooked it up to a junk but good 6x9 coil with the cap tested it tapped on the resistor blocks no popping no cutting out so i chanced my thunder 6000 300 watt sub and it sounded awesome no cut outs nothing and none of the chips were even getting hot checked the coil on the sub and it was cool as well so now im waiting on the chips i order both channels seem to be working properly minus the chip set i swapped and the 2 others i removed due to being shorted and the other one was open so heres my next question for you
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Old 4th December 2012, 09:03 PM   #15
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The chips i pulled out are (Kb688 - Lot# 0 6J) (KD718 - Lot#0 6K) Do you think the ones i ordered will work they are part #'s (Kb688 - Lot# 0 3K)(KD718 - Lot#0 5C) and i bought all 8 of them 4 = KB688 and KD718 now due to the lot number being different do you think they will work since there all matched for each set of chips? even the originals were not all matched lot numbers between the 2 different part numbers.
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Old 4th December 2012, 09:05 PM   #16
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As long as the lot/date/production code match for the parallel transistors, they will be reliable.
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Old 4th December 2012, 09:31 PM   #17
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awesome i guess ill have to wait for them i cant wait to get them in i know itll fix my problem since i swapped the good channel transistors over to the bad side and since i fixxed the solder on the board the bad transistor channel is working like the good side so as long as the power supply chips hold up which i think they should this amp is fixxed and back to working on my Cobalt i found some more issues with that one but ill post it in the other thread thanks again buddy for all your valueable information it has really paid off for me specially with locatiing chips you are the best on the forums glad your a big help...
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Old 12th December 2012, 10:33 PM   #18
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I thought i would double check on this one and see what you think guys i swapped the
D718 = 2qty
B688 = 2qty output transistors

For
T B688 = 2qty
T B718 = 2qty output transistors

The amp seems to be running slightly hotter on the one side nothing to serious i doint think tho i can hold my hand on them without burning my hand i powered the amp with my optima yellow top battery 35/75 had the amp powering a thunder 6000 12" speaker its 250 watts RMS for a good while the tempature seems to be stable on the output transistors just the one is slightly hotter however i cant even turn the amp up half way without the amp power light flickering like its lacking power does everything seem like its working properly i didnt have a big power wire hooked up just a 14 guage for the power could that be my issue or do you think there could be something else wrong on the power supply side of the amp?
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Old 12th December 2012, 10:35 PM   #19
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also i had the amp in bridged mode
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Old 13th December 2012, 06:16 AM   #20
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If they were tightly clamped to the heatsink, they may not be transferring heat efficiently to the heatsink. Did you apply new heatsink compound to the transistors?
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