Hi have a issue with a power accoustik hmr-800-2x the Protection light and the power light kept coming on when i would give it power no sound nothing so I checked the chips found a short on the channel output i pulled it checked it the power turned on the light was gone so I hooked it up it sounded like it was working fine so i swapped the K718 chips and K688 chips on the amp with the ones were shorted and it turned on seem to be working and all the sudden the amp start flickering from green to red i tapped on the board there was a pop in the speaker then all the sudden the amp turned back on and was working any ideas what kind of problem im having? I ordered 4 T718/T618 replacement chips that replaces all the channel output chips but for some reason it seems like im missing something here possibly a ic chip or a driver issue?
I think i blew up one of my infinity house speakers in the process of testing to thanks to when it was go in and out of protection mode and powering up it started popping next then you know my mid range speaker was crackling if that helps anything i double checked it on my house stereo thinking it was the amp but its shot i think the coil burned up i should have known better but i had nothing else i could test my amps with
Hi have a issue with a power accoustik hmr-800-2x the Protection light and the power light kept coming on when i would give it power no sound nothing so I checked the chips found a short on the channel output i pulled it checked it the power turned on the light was gone so I hooked it up it sounded like it was working fine so i swapped the K718 chips and K688 chips on the amp with the ones were shorted and it turned on seem to be working and all the sudden the amp start flickering from green to red i tapped on the board there was a pop in the speaker then all the sudden the amp turned back on and was working any ideas what kind of problem im having? I ordered 4 T718/T618 replacement chips that replaces all the channel output chips but for some reason it seems like im missing something here possibly a ic chip or a driver issue?
Well i tapped on these ceramic white block looking resistor things and the sound would pop and go away or kick back in not sure what they call them any ideas? Also i do have some install edge capcitor crossovers for blocking out bass would those be a good supplement to the non polarized capacitors?
There 133uf where would i find some that are around 100 and will they work on any amplifier i work on?
Do you know how i test those does it sound like those are bad maybe resolder them to make sure there nice and tight? I did notice there pretty glue tight to the baord BTW. Also im not sure what they call those ceramic filliments
Do you know how i test those does it sound like those are bad maybe resolder them to make sure there nice and tight? I did notice there pretty glue tight to the baord BTW. Also im not sure what they call those ceramic filliments
The 133uF is OK.
They are used to block DC. They wouldn't allow much low frequencies through but they will allow for general testing. If you're going to work on amplifiers, you will need to buy dummy loads or a speaker that can take a lot of abuse. Generally, you check for DC before you connect a speaker or a load.
The resistors are likely OK. You need to look at the solder connections on their legs to see if any are cracked/overheated. If you find bad solder connections, you need to add new solder, remove all of the solder and then solder the connection again.
They are used to block DC. They wouldn't allow much low frequencies through but they will allow for general testing. If you're going to work on amplifiers, you will need to buy dummy loads or a speaker that can take a lot of abuse. Generally, you check for DC before you connect a speaker or a load.
The resistors are likely OK. You need to look at the solder connections on their legs to see if any are cracked/overheated. If you find bad solder connections, you need to add new solder, remove all of the solder and then solder the connection again.
Would my he2 be a safe speaker for using on when im testing these amps would that be a strong enough to with stand high output currents coming out of my speaker channels?
And thank you ill check the solders and see what i find out do you think that could have been the cause of the amp blowing the output transistors to begin with by having a lose connection like that and if the amp was mounted to the sub box?
And thank you ill check the solders and see what i find out do you think that could have been the cause of the amp blowing the output transistors to begin with by having a lose connection like that and if the amp was mounted to the sub box?
Nothing is likely to be foolproof. You have to pay attention to what you're doing. You never want to leave a speaker connected to an amp that has significant DC on the output. If you're careful and attentive, the HE2 will be OK but that doesn't mean that you couldn't blow it with some amps if you weren't paying attention to what you were doing.
Mounting the amp on the speaker enclosure can cause solder connections to fail.
Mounting the amp on the speaker enclosure can cause solder connections to fail.
do you feel it would be safer in my situation to just go ahead and get me 100uf caps for testing inline with my he2 to be safer and i completely agree with you with the solders failing being attacted to a vibrated hazard normally i try to keep them as far as away from the speaker box as possible i always was afrraid of the magnetic field messing with the transistors myself let alone constant earthquake specially with the bigger subs
I followed your suggests about the board having lose solders on it i added alot of solder on the board double checked the transistors i swapped from the right working channel over to the left channel hooked it up to a junk but good 6x9 coil with the cap tested it tapped on the resistor blocks no popping no cutting out so i chanced my thunder 6000 300 watt sub and it sounded awesome no cut outs nothing and none of the chips were even getting hot checked the coil on the sub and it was cool as well so now im waiting on the chips i order both channels seem to be working properly minus the chip set i swapped and the 2 others i removed due to being shorted and the other one was open so heres my next question for you
The chips i pulled out are (Kb688 - Lot# 0 6J) (KD718 - Lot#0 6K) Do you think the ones i ordered will work they are part #'s (Kb688 - Lot# 0 3K)(KD718 - Lot#0 5C) and i bought all 8 of them 4 = KB688 and KD718 now due to the lot number being different do you think they will work since there all matched for each set of chips? even the originals were not all matched lot numbers between the 2 different part numbers.
awesome i guess ill have to wait for them i cant wait to get them in i know itll fix my problem since i swapped the good channel transistors over to the bad side and since i fixxed the solder on the board the bad transistor channel is working like the good side so as long as the power supply chips hold up which i think they should this amp is fixxed and back to working on my Cobalt i found some more issues with that one but ill post it in the other thread thanks again buddy for all your valueable information it has really paid off for me specially with locatiing chips you are the best on the forums glad your a big help...
I thought i would double check on this one and see what you think guys i swapped the
D718 = 2qty
B688 = 2qty output transistors
For
T B688 = 2qty
T B718 = 2qty output transistors
The amp seems to be running slightly hotter on the one side nothing to serious i doint think tho i can hold my hand on them without burning my hand i powered the amp with my optima yellow top battery 35/75 had the amp powering a thunder 6000 12" speaker its 250 watts RMS for a good while the tempature seems to be stable on the output transistors just the one is slightly hotter however i cant even turn the amp up half way without the amp power light flickering like its lacking power does everything seem like its working properly i didnt have a big power wire hooked up just a 14 guage for the power could that be my issue or do you think there could be something else wrong on the power supply side of the amp?
D718 = 2qty
B688 = 2qty output transistors
For
T B688 = 2qty
T B718 = 2qty output transistors
The amp seems to be running slightly hotter on the one side nothing to serious i doint think tho i can hold my hand on them without burning my hand i powered the amp with my optima yellow top battery 35/75 had the amp powering a thunder 6000 12" speaker its 250 watts RMS for a good while the tempature seems to be stable on the output transistors just the one is slightly hotter however i cant even turn the amp up half way without the amp power light flickering like its lacking power does everything seem like its working properly i didnt have a big power wire hooked up just a 14 guage for the power could that be my issue or do you think there could be something else wrong on the power supply side of the amp?
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