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-   -   Rockford Fosgate T10001 (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/223739-rockford-fosgate-t10001.html)

seankane 17th November 2012 09:28 AM

Rockford Fosgate T10001
 
1 Attachment(s)
I recieved a T10001 board number 1325-51669-05 2006 model.

The amp would not power up and squeeled loudly when trying to power it up. I removed the top cover to find the little screen mounted to the plastic vent housing the led plastic tubes had fallen off and shorted to R87 a white 5W 3K resistor and also to one of the screw heads that holds the fan down.

All except 2 outputs tested to be shorted. I removed all the outputs except the 2 that were not shorted. The amp then powered and would idle fine.

I replaced all the outputs with new IRFP3415's and powered the amp again. The amp idles fine, is not in protect, there is no DC on the output terminals. The amp produces clean audio on the scope and sounds great on a sub.

I hear a slight chirping noise inside the amp when the bass hits, and I noticed Q201 (A06) and Q202 (A56) seem to be hot to the touch as compared to the rest of the drivers Q203, Q205, Q206, Q216, Q215, and Q218.

They dont seem to be getting hot enough to de-solder but definantely hotter than the rest, I ran the amp for a few minutes but dont want to chance shorting any outputs by running it any longer.

Is this normal for only these 2 to run hot or is there something I should be looking for??

I have included a pic of the board.

Perry Babin 17th November 2012 03:02 PM

Those 2 transistors are regulators and always run hot. There are 10.5 ohm resistors in series with them that will blow if they're overloaded.

In every amp with the screen, you should apply a bit of adhesive to the screen to hold it in place. They fall often and since they can short across any combination of parts, repairing the amps after the screen has fallen can be time consuming.

seankane 17th November 2012 11:30 PM

Yes luckily mine only shorted to the one resistor and shorted the outputs. I think I will use some hot glue or something. I was going to remove it, but after careful consideration if something fell onto the amp there would be nothing to keep it from going onto the board and shorting more components.

Thanks for the reply Perry.

seankane 17th November 2012 11:40 PM

All the date codes match on all those drivers including the regulators. If I was to replace those 2 regulators do I still have to have matching date codes?

I am assuming they all match because Rockford buys them in huge bulk.

seankane 18th November 2012 12:04 AM

Still cant figure out the chirping noise inside the amp, it sounds like a cricket chirping. It only chirps when the bass hits. Almost sounds like its coming from the output inductor area not sure though.

Does not seem to affect performance. Normal?

Perry Babin 18th November 2012 03:44 AM

If all of the signals on the outputs and the power supply look OK, it may not be a problem. Sometimes inductive components are a bit noisy. If you can hold the inductor and the noise changes or stops, I wouldn't be concerned about it.

seankane 18th November 2012 06:56 AM

Please read post #4 and let me know what you think. I might not even replace them, amp works great!!!

Perry Babin 18th November 2012 07:45 AM

The drivers are not working in parallel with any other transistors so they don't need to have matching date codes.

seankane 18th November 2012 07:47 AM

OK thanks.

midnightg35x 22nd February 2013 04:03 AM

Did you happen to get a schematic for this amp from Rockford before you started working on it? If so, can you email it to me... midnightg35x@gmail.com?


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