Hello all.
Im building my new system. I need some advice and help.
First the questions:
How do I connect a extra battery to my system?
How do I run more than one amp from my battery?
How big enclosure should i use with 2 15: subs?
Will fibreglass be a good idea to use as a enclosure?
I want to create a a custom installation so fibreglass is my only out... Also what size Ports should I use??
I will be running two Calibra 15" Stealth Subs.
2 Blaster 1200 Watt Monoblock Amps (one for each sub)
1 Blaster 600 Watt 4Ch
2 Calibra Stealth 6 1/2 Inch Split Systems
Everything I want to look good but give DAMN good SPL.
Please assist if you can.
Thanx
Im building my new system. I need some advice and help.
First the questions:
How do I connect a extra battery to my system?
How do I run more than one amp from my battery?
How big enclosure should i use with 2 15: subs?
Will fibreglass be a good idea to use as a enclosure?
I want to create a a custom installation so fibreglass is my only out... Also what size Ports should I use??
I will be running two Calibra 15" Stealth Subs.
2 Blaster 1200 Watt Monoblock Amps (one for each sub)
1 Blaster 600 Watt 4Ch
2 Calibra Stealth 6 1/2 Inch Split Systems
Everything I want to look good but give DAMN good SPL.
Please assist if you can.
Thanx
infernox said:
if you dont get an answer to this soon, maybe you should have a look at a dedicated car audio forum, such as CarAudioForum.com
Well, im not expert with car audio, I am just getting really interested in it. But there might be a few things I can help you with. As far as connecting another battery, You can either connect it in paralell or in series. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. I forget which one does which, but one will give you more power but wont last any longer than the first battery will, and one will give you the same power but last twice as long as the first batter. I also dont know which one is more commonly used in the car audio industry.
More amps to one batter.....in my car, I had a 400 watt bass amp and a 200 watt amp for my mids and trebble. What the installer did was take one wire from the battery and then he split it and sent one wire to each amp. Now, these amps are MUCH smaller than what you're running, and i only had one battery too. The guy also split the grounding wire too. But for your grounding, you could just connect it to the negative side of your battery.
The enclosure I think matters on the size of the sub, the company, whether you want it ported or sealed and t/s paramaters. I'm not exactly sure with all of this. What I've seen is you need to find the manufacurer's recomended enclosure space. But I'm pretty sure theres ways to find it without the recomended area, I just dont know how to.
As far as fiberglass...i have noooooo idea with building boxes and what they're made of. Like I said, I'm just getting into all this, but i would like to know more. If you have aol or aim you can IM me Djdfa...its the same as this. We can talk on this more.
Theres something i'd like to ask you though, have you heard your 15's yet? the ones you plan on installing. or did you just pick em out and decide to install em. What i'm wondering is do you find that 15's replicate all the frequencies well? My roomate in college has 2 15's and they hit hard. dont get me wrong, they hit SOOO hard...its just that they are VERY innacurate when it comes to all the frequencies. I've heard this before about 15's but do you find that to be the case?
More amps to one batter.....in my car, I had a 400 watt bass amp and a 200 watt amp for my mids and trebble. What the installer did was take one wire from the battery and then he split it and sent one wire to each amp. Now, these amps are MUCH smaller than what you're running, and i only had one battery too. The guy also split the grounding wire too. But for your grounding, you could just connect it to the negative side of your battery.
The enclosure I think matters on the size of the sub, the company, whether you want it ported or sealed and t/s paramaters. I'm not exactly sure with all of this. What I've seen is you need to find the manufacurer's recomended enclosure space. But I'm pretty sure theres ways to find it without the recomended area, I just dont know how to.
As far as fiberglass...i have noooooo idea with building boxes and what they're made of. Like I said, I'm just getting into all this, but i would like to know more. If you have aol or aim you can IM me Djdfa...its the same as this. We can talk on this more.
Theres something i'd like to ask you though, have you heard your 15's yet? the ones you plan on installing. or did you just pick em out and decide to install em. What i'm wondering is do you find that 15's replicate all the frequencies well? My roomate in college has 2 15's and they hit hard. dont get me wrong, they hit SOOO hard...its just that they are VERY innacurate when it comes to all the frequencies. I've heard this before about 15's but do you find that to be the case?
right after i typed my reply, i found a website that has a free program that has almost every speaker on the market and it will tell you everything you need to know about the kind of box you might want to build. http://www.linearteam.dk/ then go to downloads and d/l the program winisd. its the first one under "downloads"
For the system you're speaking of, you don't need an extra battery unless you're going to run your system while the car is off for long periods.
Before getting another battery, the first thing to upgrade is the alternator. If the headlights dim after that upgrade, consider a 1 F cap.
I wouldn't use winisd for an enclosure with two subs. It doesn't calculate multiple drivers correctly. You could actually calculate the size for one sub, then do two of those boxes.
'Glass is good for for custom jobs.
Before getting another battery, the first thing to upgrade is the alternator. If the headlights dim after that upgrade, consider a 1 F cap.
I wouldn't use winisd for an enclosure with two subs. It doesn't calculate multiple drivers correctly. You could actually calculate the size for one sub, then do two of those boxes.
'Glass is good for for custom jobs.
Forgot the wiring answer:
For having more than one amp off of one battery, there's a thing called a distribution block. It takes a larger guage cable from the positive of the battery and splits it into 2 or more smaller guages (smaller meaning going from 10 ga to 12ga or something of that nature).
A little more explanation on alternators and caps. Alternators are by far the best thing you can do for dimming headlights or any other sign of not having enough power supplied to the amps. Caps are a $100 bandage for a larger problem. Its like trying to stop the bleeding of a severed finger with a paper towel... its better than using nothing to heal the problem, but it never actually solves the problem.
For having more than one amp off of one battery, there's a thing called a distribution block. It takes a larger guage cable from the positive of the battery and splits it into 2 or more smaller guages (smaller meaning going from 10 ga to 12ga or something of that nature).
A little more explanation on alternators and caps. Alternators are by far the best thing you can do for dimming headlights or any other sign of not having enough power supplied to the amps. Caps are a $100 bandage for a larger problem. Its like trying to stop the bleeding of a severed finger with a paper towel... its better than using nothing to heal the problem, but it never actually solves the problem.
So, now I'm wondering..at what point would you want to run an extra battery? Also, when constructing a box, what is the difference between glass, plexi glass, wood, carpeted wood...anything. If anyone can IM me through aol or aim on djdfa, i would GREATLY appreciate it to talk about this sort of thing. I'm just getting into car audio and i really want to find out more. any information is good information.
I really dont know where to start... In reguards to hooking up an extra battery DONT DO IT IT ISNT NEEDED... You really dont want to mess with your cars electrical system. When you start hooking batteries up in series you add their voltage togather. I dont know what type of car you are driving but i am assuming that it is running at 12 and 14.4 is probably the dynamic voltage coming out of your alternator. In terms of solving the headlight dim i would first recommend getting a cap. there are a few manuf. out there that make them up to 25 farads. These would still be cheaper than replacing your alternator. Your alternator should be able to handle the load. Consider that the amplifier isnt drawing high current continuousy ( too tired i cant spell). the cap stores the power and releases it when your amp demands it. If you still have headlight dim after hooking up a 10 Farad cap You are drawing some serious power and you probably broke your cd player with the vibrations coming off your subs. after a cap i would recommend getting an optima battery they work well and last long.
Reguarding your next question to hook up more than one amp to your battery you would most likely need to run either a 2 or a 0 guage wire back from the battery. If you bought a cap you would install this on the line. then you would have that going to a distribution block. for your sub amps you would probably run either 4 guage or 8 guage ( depending on the distance from the block to the amps. DO NOT USE ANYTHING SMALLER THAN AN 8 GUAGE. the smaller the wire the more resistance and the more heat is generated within the wire. If i were you i would also install a relay to control the remote turn on for the 3 amps. because if you daisy chain them you could actually damage your deck.
In reguards to the box. If you have not used fiberglass before i would not recommend trying to build the box out of it. You can do some good things with wood. it is cheaper and easier to work with. I would not recommend using regular wood i would recommend using 3/4 MDF.
Glass and plexy glass for the main box structure are out of the question. although plexy glass is good to put a window into the box so you can c the back of your subs.
I would not recommend using nails to put the box togather. Use screws and then use silcon to seal the inside.
Just curious where you are at can you get a hold of brands like Kicker, Image Dynamics, Focal, soundstream, MTX????
wow that was a mouthfull
Any other questions let me know
ReverB
Reguarding your next question to hook up more than one amp to your battery you would most likely need to run either a 2 or a 0 guage wire back from the battery. If you bought a cap you would install this on the line. then you would have that going to a distribution block. for your sub amps you would probably run either 4 guage or 8 guage ( depending on the distance from the block to the amps. DO NOT USE ANYTHING SMALLER THAN AN 8 GUAGE. the smaller the wire the more resistance and the more heat is generated within the wire. If i were you i would also install a relay to control the remote turn on for the 3 amps. because if you daisy chain them you could actually damage your deck.
In reguards to the box. If you have not used fiberglass before i would not recommend trying to build the box out of it. You can do some good things with wood. it is cheaper and easier to work with. I would not recommend using regular wood i would recommend using 3/4 MDF.
Glass and plexy glass for the main box structure are out of the question. although plexy glass is good to put a window into the box so you can c the back of your subs.
I would not recommend using nails to put the box togather. Use screws and then use silcon to seal the inside.
Just curious where you are at can you get a hold of brands like Kicker, Image Dynamics, Focal, soundstream, MTX????
wow that was a mouthfull
Any other questions let me know
ReverB
HI!
First of all, if you want to add an extra battery to your car, you should connect it in parallel; despite what others say, you cannot connect them in series or you can easily destroy your car's electrical system; in fact 12 V in series are 24V! Cars are not designed to run out of this voltage!!!!
Connecting 2 batteries in parallel gives you the opportunity to sum the two capacities (i.e. if one is rated 50Ah and the other 60Ah you get 110Ah).
I must remind you that working with your car's electrical system it's a bit dangerous (everything not correctly made may lead to a fire hazard!!). So be sure of what u're doing. Most imporant of all is putting a right fuse just on every wire coming out from the positive terminal of the battery (as near to the battery as possible).
Wouldn't it easier to change your battery with a new bigger one??
About fiberglass: don't use it, that's not good, use wood instead (MDF is very good and cheap).
Bye
First of all, if you want to add an extra battery to your car, you should connect it in parallel; despite what others say, you cannot connect them in series or you can easily destroy your car's electrical system; in fact 12 V in series are 24V! Cars are not designed to run out of this voltage!!!!
Connecting 2 batteries in parallel gives you the opportunity to sum the two capacities (i.e. if one is rated 50Ah and the other 60Ah you get 110Ah).
I must remind you that working with your car's electrical system it's a bit dangerous (everything not correctly made may lead to a fire hazard!!). So be sure of what u're doing. Most imporant of all is putting a right fuse just on every wire coming out from the positive terminal of the battery (as near to the battery as possible).
Wouldn't it easier to change your battery with a new bigger one??
About fiberglass: don't use it, that's not good, use wood instead (MDF is very good and cheap).
Bye
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm
Good link
Articles on almost all things ul need to know
i think when people use fiberglass they just put it Over the mdf box.....
for the subs,use winisd like some one suggested,pro version.Make the response peak.See if u can fit the box. Make airspeed below 20m/s if u can with input power.
Youl need low gauge wire for high amperes,high power amps
Good link
Articles on almost all things ul need to know
i think when people use fiberglass they just put it Over the mdf box.....
for the subs,use winisd like some one suggested,pro version.Make the response peak.See if u can fit the box. Make airspeed below 20m/s if u can with input power.
Youl need low gauge wire for high amperes,high power amps
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