Hi, It should already have one built in, rgds, sreten.
Note for home use you'll also need a big SMPS supply for a big amplifier.
I'd start off playing with the Lepai's, eg :
Lepai 2.1 2x40W Amplifier + 1x68W Sub Output 310-308
For $27 with a 12V/5A supply you can't go wrong, though real power is a lot less.
Note for home use you'll also need a big SMPS supply for a big amplifier.
I'd start off playing with the Lepai's, eg :
Lepai 2.1 2x40W Amplifier + 1x68W Sub Output 310-308
For $27 with a 12V/5A supply you can't go wrong, though real power is a lot less.
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I'm looking for an amplifier that I could use in the car and for a really large subwoofer because I have a 12 inch subwoofer at 175 watt rms 500 watts max
I was thinking I could use the 12 volt 2 amp power supply that i already have so i have just enough power to drive my subwoofer.. but far from the max ratings of it so it doesn't hurt the subwoofer while powering it..
but i'm going to be testing the amplifier in my home using my 12 volt 2 amp DC adapter...
once my mom gets a new car battery for her car i'll probably move my stuff to her car
and I don't own a credit card so i can't buy anything online..
I'm waiting till my mom gets paid next month so we can drive to walmart and get the stuff we need and then just head home and hook the amplifier to my 12 volt 2 amp DC adapter and test it out..
it's not permanent. and soon my mom is going to get a new battery for her car since someone took the old one out of it and didn't give it back.
so then i'll probably move my amp and subwoofer to the car.
i'm not sure what i'm going to buy from walmart yet because i'm not sure what i'll find in store.. but it's going to be a cheap amp for under 180 dollars but over 50 dollars.
I was thinking I could use the 12 volt 2 amp power supply that i already have so i have just enough power to drive my subwoofer.. but far from the max ratings of it so it doesn't hurt the subwoofer while powering it..
but i'm going to be testing the amplifier in my home using my 12 volt 2 amp DC adapter...
once my mom gets a new car battery for her car i'll probably move my stuff to her car
and I don't own a credit card so i can't buy anything online..
I'm waiting till my mom gets paid next month so we can drive to walmart and get the stuff we need and then just head home and hook the amplifier to my 12 volt 2 amp DC adapter and test it out..
it's not permanent. and soon my mom is going to get a new battery for her car since someone took the old one out of it and didn't give it back.
so then i'll probably move my amp and subwoofer to the car.
i'm not sure what i'm going to buy from walmart yet because i'm not sure what i'll find in store.. but it's going to be a cheap amp for under 180 dollars but over 50 dollars.
If you're going to be installing an amp in a vehicle, you MUST use the proper wire and fuses to prevent burning the car to the ground (or to the rims, depending on how you look at it). The fuse at the battery MUST be rated to protect the wire being used.
If you're willing to spend up to $180, try best buy if there is one near you. They have a 600 watt kicker amp for less than $150.
If you're going to buy a budget brand amp, you should post the ones you're interested in so others can help you choose. You can tell the websites for most stores to show only items for sale in your stores so you can see what's in stock locally.
If you're willing to spend up to $180, try best buy if there is one near you. They have a 600 watt kicker amp for less than $150.
If you're going to buy a budget brand amp, you should post the ones you're interested in so others can help you choose. You can tell the websites for most stores to show only items for sale in your stores so you can see what's in stock locally.
I did but they only showed one amp when i checked..
i know for sure there's more than just a sony xplode amp in store for sure
they didn't even list the entire isle of car radio stereos and the other two amps i know they have but forgot the name for them..
there's a lot of things in store that they don't show on their website..
i looked for an hour but only found an amp install kit which i knew they already had.. and one sony xplode amplifier.. which isn't quite what i wanted.. so i wanted to actually have a look around in store.
and yes I am aware of what thickness of wire i will need and i know what the fuses are i've read a lot about the fuses for cars and what their maximum ratings are. and the ratings i will need for the amp and battery
maybe i'll check out best buy while my mom is driving me into town next time our money comes in.. and maybe walmart. if best buy doesnt have what i need.
i know for sure there's more than just a sony xplode amp in store for sure
they didn't even list the entire isle of car radio stereos and the other two amps i know they have but forgot the name for them..
there's a lot of things in store that they don't show on their website..
i looked for an hour but only found an amp install kit which i knew they already had.. and one sony xplode amplifier.. which isn't quite what i wanted.. so i wanted to actually have a look around in store.
and yes I am aware of what thickness of wire i will need and i know what the fuses are i've read a lot about the fuses for cars and what their maximum ratings are. and the ratings i will need for the amp and battery
maybe i'll check out best buy while my mom is driving me into town next time our money comes in.. and maybe walmart. if best buy doesnt have what i need.
Hi,
Your walmart options probably start here :
Soundquest SQK8 Copper-Clad Aluminum Amplifier Wiring Kit, 8-Gauge: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com
and this :
Dual 400W XPE2700 2-Channel Amplifier: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com
Used bridged, sub mode, with or without the optional bass boost and sub filters,
150W/4 ohms, your very unlikely to need anything more in a good install to
match the cars prefitted audio system. Might need PLLXO tweaking though.
rgds, sreten.
What 12" sub is it ? and installed in what box ? Volume ? vent frequency ?
Your walmart options probably start here :
Soundquest SQK8 Copper-Clad Aluminum Amplifier Wiring Kit, 8-Gauge: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com
and this :
Dual 400W XPE2700 2-Channel Amplifier: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com
Used bridged, sub mode, with or without the optional bass boost and sub filters,
150W/4 ohms, your very unlikely to need anything more in a good install to
match the cars prefitted audio system. Might need PLLXO tweaking though.
rgds, sreten.
What 12" sub is it ? and installed in what box ? Volume ? vent frequency ?
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my friend gave me an empty FISHER stv-655B box (here is a link to a picture of what it looks like But I Do Not Have That Exact Subwoofer Anymore) http://www.shopping-advices.com/images/product-041041081177.jpg
and my subwoofer that I put in the box is a 12 inch DUAL 175 watt rms 500 watts max 4 ohms
only costed 30 dollars to buy it from walmart
I got it a really long time ago
and since then i've put it in the box and got rid of the old broken paper woofer that used to go in it..
it really bumps too but i wanted to buy a real amplifier to replace my home built toy amp
and i'm looking for either a mono amplifier.. or a stereo amp with very few options and hardly any knobs or whatnot.
like something simple like one knob for gain. and one knob for volume.. and maybe an on off switch (if possible.)
and i would really rather not modify the bass or treble whatsoever.
and i'd rather not have any cutoff frequency knobs because my speaker box has all that built in and it sounds great just the way it is.
and by the way my moms car has no radio or stereo in it..... it stopped working so we got rid of it
so i must use the line level if possible from my mp3 or my phone to listen to songs off of.
but i would need an adapter cord to go to the amps input..
and I have absolutely no clue what frequency response the box is.... it's impossible to tell since i've got a different subwoofer than the original..
but it sounds the best at around 23hz and between 30hz and 40hz after that most other frequencies cut away. but the mids and highs sound great and i'm sure they will sound even better with a real amplifier.
and my subwoofer that I put in the box is a 12 inch DUAL 175 watt rms 500 watts max 4 ohms
only costed 30 dollars to buy it from walmart
I got it a really long time ago
and since then i've put it in the box and got rid of the old broken paper woofer that used to go in it..
it really bumps too but i wanted to buy a real amplifier to replace my home built toy amp
and i'm looking for either a mono amplifier.. or a stereo amp with very few options and hardly any knobs or whatnot.
like something simple like one knob for gain. and one knob for volume.. and maybe an on off switch (if possible.)
and i would really rather not modify the bass or treble whatsoever.
and i'd rather not have any cutoff frequency knobs because my speaker box has all that built in and it sounds great just the way it is.
and by the way my moms car has no radio or stereo in it..... it stopped working so we got rid of it
so i must use the line level if possible from my mp3 or my phone to listen to songs off of.
but i would need an adapter cord to go to the amps input..
and I have absolutely no clue what frequency response the box is.... it's impossible to tell since i've got a different subwoofer than the original..
but it sounds the best at around 23hz and between 30hz and 40hz after that most other frequencies cut away. but the mids and highs sound great and i'm sure they will sound even better with a real amplifier.
I can read the instructions and the manual on how to connect all the wires and power cords to their place and whatnot that's easy
then i just hook the wires to my subwoofer and play some music.... it's not that difficult..
and my power supply being only 12 volts and 2 amps it will most likely never blow a single fuse
then i just hook the wires to my subwoofer and play some music.... it's not that difficult..
and my power supply being only 12 volts and 2 amps it will most likely never blow a single fuse
12v and 2 amps is going to be less than 20 watts to the speaker. Many amps won't turn on with only 2 amps of current.
If you're going to operate the amplifier full range (not good if you want a lot of bass), you'll need an amp that will reproduce the entire audio spectrum. That eliminates most class D amps.
If you're going to operate the amplifier full range (not good if you want a lot of bass), you'll need an amp that will reproduce the entire audio spectrum. That eliminates most class D amps.
if it doesn't work i could get a capacitor to store additional amps and charge it up with the power supply so the power supply and capacitor could both run the amplifier..
if an amplifier draws more than 2 amps of power on idle or just to turn on that's absurd! should be far less than that. that's what i call very inefficient.
and i dont really care if it doesn't have full range or not...
if i can at least get some bass out of my subwoofer..
it doesn't have to be hundreds of watts....
just enough to make some bump..
if an amplifier draws more than 2 amps of power on idle or just to turn on that's absurd! should be far less than that. that's what i call very inefficient.
and i dont really care if it doesn't have full range or not...
if i can at least get some bass out of my subwoofer..
it doesn't have to be hundreds of watts....
just enough to make some bump..
Two issues: Power vs bandwidth (i.e. audio spectrum) of audio amplifier
Power: If there is no electricity, battery operated audio system normally requires low voltage and high power output , the impedance of speaker is very low (e.g. 1-ohm) in comparing to home HiFi audio system (4 or 8 ohm). Typical examples are audio system for transportation such as car, boat, airplane or railway without electricity. Please visit Perry’s website, he does a good job to explain it. But, I don’t understand why impedance of headphone is designed at so high impedance such as 16-ohm to 600-ohm?
Bandwidth: It must widely cover the human audile frequency from 20Hz to 20Khz
For direct coupling audio amplifier, the bandwidth is limited by the transistor, usually above Mhz at unity voltage gain. For power amplifier with voltage gain normally less than 20, the bandwidth is at several hundred Hz which is far above the human audile frequency at 20Khz.
For capacitive coupling amplifier, the bandwidth is limited by the analog filter. In my experience, I use a “Quantitative and Qualitative” approach to design analog filter.
Quantitative approach is to calculate the cut-off frequency of analog filter which must widely cover human audile frequency. Once cut-off frequency is determined, there are many combinations to meet same cut-off frequency of a typical RC filter (i.e. f = [R1,C1], [R2,C2], etc…) Beside, one capacitor can be replaced by several capacitors in parallel at same capacitance value. It causes sound difference due to different charging and discharging rate of capacitor. For this reason, it is hardly to predict the sound quality by theory (i.e. mathematical calculation). Qualitative approach is done by practical listening test to select RC value at different scenario to get the best sound quality.
Power: If there is no electricity, battery operated audio system normally requires low voltage and high power output , the impedance of speaker is very low (e.g. 1-ohm) in comparing to home HiFi audio system (4 or 8 ohm). Typical examples are audio system for transportation such as car, boat, airplane or railway without electricity. Please visit Perry’s website, he does a good job to explain it. But, I don’t understand why impedance of headphone is designed at so high impedance such as 16-ohm to 600-ohm?
Bandwidth: It must widely cover the human audile frequency from 20Hz to 20Khz
For direct coupling audio amplifier, the bandwidth is limited by the transistor, usually above Mhz at unity voltage gain. For power amplifier with voltage gain normally less than 20, the bandwidth is at several hundred Hz which is far above the human audile frequency at 20Khz.
For capacitive coupling amplifier, the bandwidth is limited by the analog filter. In my experience, I use a “Quantitative and Qualitative” approach to design analog filter.
Quantitative approach is to calculate the cut-off frequency of analog filter which must widely cover human audile frequency. Once cut-off frequency is determined, there are many combinations to meet same cut-off frequency of a typical RC filter (i.e. f = [R1,C1], [R2,C2], etc…) Beside, one capacitor can be replaced by several capacitors in parallel at same capacitance value. It causes sound difference due to different charging and discharging rate of capacitor. For this reason, it is hardly to predict the sound quality by theory (i.e. mathematical calculation). Qualitative approach is done by practical listening test to select RC value at different scenario to get the best sound quality.
A 12 volt 2 amp power source will not work !!!!!
Buy a cap will do nothing to help you at all !!!!!
The amp draws current the more you turn the volume up the more current it will draw...
A car amp will draw more then 2 amps of current ...
Im not sure if you playing games here to get people going or you do not have the knowlegde ..
Not trying to be mean at all Theese people are here to help you out not to give u the wrong info ..
If you hook this up to a 12volt 2 amp supply you are likely to cause a fire ..
Ask the people on here they have many years of knowledge about this kind of stuff..
Buy a cap will do nothing to help you at all !!!!!
The amp draws current the more you turn the volume up the more current it will draw...
A car amp will draw more then 2 amps of current ...
Im not sure if you playing games here to get people going or you do not have the knowlegde ..
Not trying to be mean at all Theese people are here to help you out not to give u the wrong info ..
If you hook this up to a 12volt 2 amp supply you are likely to cause a fire ..
Ask the people on here they have many years of knowledge about this kind of stuff..
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