PPi A600.2 #2 Powers up but with both lights on - Page 3 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > General Interest > Car Audio

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th November 2012, 10:04 AM   #21
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
so remove all of them on that side ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th November 2012, 06:42 PM   #22
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
Q7 thru Q18 look to be shorted but because they are in parallel they will all read the same pretty much. You likely only have one or two bad transistors but since these are connected together in a array I replace them all with a new set of devices. < this is my method but its entirely up to you. for what they cost all new is cheap insurance the job was done 100% correctly IMHO >

You can lift the center leg of each device and remeasure and only the shorted ones will show up in most cases. I use a dental tool to lift the center leg out of the board after heating with a iron. Then read from the center leg to the outer legs will show the single devices that are shorted. Once you remove those shorted devices and reinstall the center legs of the rest. You can clamp the base back onto the amp or install your set of home made clamps and apply power to the amp to see if you have clear all the short issues. if you choose not to replace them all....
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th November 2012, 02:18 PM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
ok but here is another ? too i was testing the other side and pretty much there gone too. should i replace all of them? and i found that resister the one was laying inside the amp that is bad too, and under that bar there a resister that blew on when side where it used to touch on the board. how much u think it will cost to get new transister? for all of them ?
thanks
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th November 2012, 06:22 PM   #24
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
I bought bulk parts in my sorted past Joey, so what I pay for these and the retail single lot price at some retail outlet will be very different. The 10 ohm resistors are on ebay for cheap, and they are Ok quality. I recently bought some so I can say that from fact, not conjecture.
I can't say that about everything on ebay, I wish I could. There are some reputable sellers on there though, and metal film resistors really don't command a counterfeit market due to there low cost.
I buy from several retail vendors on the net and have no complaints about any of them. I am going to post several links below that will help you search and find components you might end up looking for...

FindChips.com Online Electronic Component Distributor Inventory Search

Octopart - Electronic Parts, Electronic Components, Datasheets

Just click on either or both of the links above and enter your part number search item and they will show you who, and how much and available stock on hand. It does not get much better then this, so enjoy my friend...

Save the links as bookmarks for your future needs I have them on my links bar on my browser. One click then enter part number and hit enter, and pretty much any availability info you need will be found for you.

Back to your amp now, I have on occasion seen two blown channels, but this is very rare. Are you sure your testing those devices correctly?
As cheap as they are it is easy to replace them all but, time and money being the typical moderators of this sort of repair, I ask you to double check your readings before you jump in and buy all new outputs for both channels.

Your new to this and I remember when i was new I made mistakes myself, so I ask you to please check again and make sure your readings are correct before you spend your money and make all that work for yourself. Usually only a single pair of outputs fails in either channel, and between all the left over devices one of those channels could be repaired....

PS try not to completely remove any devices from the board, leave one leg attached or something like that. Again you new to this and this will eliminate possible device misplacement later on. When you get your new parts in and are ready to install then you can pull things off the board. This will help you to prevent parts placement mistakes later on..

Last edited by 1moreamp; 12th November 2012 at 06:26 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th November 2012, 07:49 PM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Ok thanks I forgot ur name so I have to take out the board out of the case and just heat up the center leg and pull it out of the board?
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th November 2012, 08:02 PM   #26
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
I leave the board in place and use a dental tool underneath the center leg of the transistors and while applying heat to the solder joint I gently lift that center leg up out of the board connection point. With this one center leg out of circuit you measure from that center leg to the other two legs only. This will show you which devices are really shorted, and you can pull one of the other legs of any shorted device out of the board and the short will be cleared. This will leave the bad device connected by one leg < out of circuit basically > and waiting for new parts to arrive to replace it with...hope some of this helps...
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th November 2012, 05:25 AM   #27
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
thank you
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 04:47 AM   #28
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Smile ok Q6 to Q18 tested with center legs out

ok i tested from Q6 to Q18 with center legs out of the board. here are the results thank you and i got me a new solder iron been trying it out on my other board trying to get use to how to quickly remove those transister are a pain in the butt lol but o well i'll get better haha
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 04:51 AM   #29
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Default Q6 to Q18 pixs

here are the pixs forgot to post
Attached Images
File Type: png q6 to q7.png (207.1 KB, 21 views)
File Type: png q8toq9.png (165.8 KB, 20 views)
File Type: png q10 to q11.png (218.1 KB, 20 views)
File Type: png q12 to q13.png (164.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: png q14 to q15.png (207.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: png q16 to q17.png (160.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: png q18 to000.png (133.4 KB, 6 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 05:25 AM   #30
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
Well if your numbers are correct then Q7, Q8, Q9, Q12, Q16 are shorted. The others may be damaged by this failure mode but I would say pull the third legs of each transistor numbered above. And continue checking the rest ...
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ppi a600 wondernutz Car Audio 12 30th November 2011 01:25 PM
PPI a600 channel carlinux Car Audio 9 6th June 2011 11:04 AM
mtx 4250d powers on but lights out when sub hooked up ford06f150 Class D 4 1st June 2011 11:37 PM
Ppi a600 mike49504 Car Audio 3 21st March 2010 01:44 AM
Ppi A600 npenson Car Audio 4 27th August 2008 10:36 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:47 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2