original are 1.75W (without heatsink), 2A, 100V, hfe 80 @50mA, 50MHz
MPSW are 1W, 0.5A, 80V, hfe 80min. guaranteed @50mA, 50MHz
The differences in Ic aren't a problem.
At full power, 2ohm stereo, each output get 3A(rms).
So, each base draw 60mA(rms) (50 Hfe for the outputs). There are 4 bases for each driver.
240mA(rms) required < 500mA continuous (rms)
I've repaired a lot of 2150GX/SX with the MPSW's with no problems after years.
Pinout is the same.
Less expensive.
More easy to find.
For high-power HCCA's is a different story
MPSW are 1W, 0.5A, 80V, hfe 80min. guaranteed @50mA, 50MHz
The differences in Ic aren't a problem.
At full power, 2ohm stereo, each output get 3A(rms).
So, each base draw 60mA(rms) (50 Hfe for the outputs). There are 4 bases for each driver.
240mA(rms) required < 500mA continuous (rms)
I've repaired a lot of 2150GX/SX with the MPSW's with no problems after years.
Pinout is the same.
Less expensive.
More easy to find.
For high-power HCCA's is a different story
I think these may not work as posted in a different forum... Someone tell me if I'm wrong...
MPSU07/57 replacements (Amplifone) - IAM/KLOV Coin-op Videogame, Pinball, Slot Machine, and EM Machine Forums
dezbaz
08-14-2011, 06:35 AM
I've seen TIP31 and TIP32 been advised as replacements for the CEN-U07 and CEN-U57...
Tips are not replacements unfortunately, the freq. is way too low
Last edited:
original are 1.75W (without heatsink), 2A, 100V, hfe 80 @50mA, 50MHz
MPSW are 1W, 0.5A, 80V, hfe 80min. guaranteed @50mA, 50MHz
The differences in Ic aren't a problem.
At full power, 2ohm stereo, each output get 3A(rms).
So, each base draw 60mA(rms) (50 Hfe for the outputs). There are 4 bases for each driver.
240mA(rms) required < 500mA continuous (rms)
Cool... thanks for the info... hope it helps others... I think I have a bin full of both of these types...have to look
I've repaired a lot of 2150GX/SX with the MPSW's with no problems after years.
Pinout is the same.
Less expensive.
More easy to find.
For high-power HCCA's is a different story
90scaraudio had some of the CEN trans and will be shipping them, I also just ordered about $70 worth of parts off off mouser (25 of the 2N6488, 8 of the 2N6491, 4 of the 50v caps and 2 of the 16V caps). I figured while I have the amp apart I might as well get all these transistors on the heat sink replaced with properly matched new ones (I am thinking my mistake last night might have cost me a few of the power supply transistors since I am showing shorts on both sides and also now on the channel I had working). Perry, I don't know why I didn't reference your material first, I guess I was getting comfortable working on amps from what I had learned from the bulk of your tutorial I didn't think about looking at the misc section for this old school amp. I find I am learning a lot of lessons the hard way, LoL.
Perry, I can't seem to find the info you mention. (repair_tutorial\miscellaneousstuff\orion)
Can Anyone point me in the right direction
Thanks much
Thanks to 90scaraudio, I got the CEN07's and CEN57's in on monday (he ships alot faster than Mouser, since I am still waiting on the other parts). I decided to go through and just use the bare minimum components to make sure the amp would power up and after correcting a rookie mistake of soldering in the CEN07's backwards I was able to get the amp to power up. I didn't want to push my luck and called it a night since I had wasted a few fuses on my rookie mistake. Looking back I see where it was recomended to replace the tantium caps in this amp as well, I was so focused on the transistors and large voltage caps that I neglected to order these other caps. What symtoms should I look for to verfiy that these will need to be replaced once I have it up and running again. I assume it would be related to noise on the channels since these look like they are in their as a filter.
I got the parts in from Mouser yesterday and bunkered down on my work bench till 4:30 in the morning. It was an awesome sense of satisfaction hearing both channels play for the first time in over 16 years (my brother owes me big time). Many thanks to 90scaraudio for the obsolete transistors. I still noticed a low level of noise on each channel(kind of like a low hertz pulse that I noticed in between songs). I assume it must be in the preamp section. I will look into it a bit more after work. Thanks to every one for the help!!!
Curious, the only time I hear this noise is when I play through the CD source of my test radio (which is on a separate power supply with the ground linked to my big Pyramid power supply). I wonder since this amp was designed before CD players and somehow it is picking up interference from the laser. I may just still be exhausted from the long night of working on it followed by a long day at work, I think I will take the night off from electronic repair and look at it later. Still just riding the high of getting it playing again.
I have the grounds from each front post of the power supplies linked together with an alagator clip, it was worse before I did this last night, maybe I need to use a heaver gauge wire instead of the small alligator clip wire. I guess I could also drive both the amp and test radio from the pyramid power supply.
Thanks Kelvin
Thanks Kelvin
If you're going to use a car head unit as a signal source, you should use two supplies. There are many times where you'll overload the supply powering the amp causing it to shut down. If you have the head unit connected to that same supply. It will shut down. It may come back on without having to turn it on but is generally won't. That will become annoying.
You shouldn't need anything more than a jumper wire. They are generally grounded through the 3-prong AC plug but sometimes the ground trace gets burned and the connection is lost.
You shouldn't need anything more than a jumper wire. They are generally grounded through the 3-prong AC plug but sometimes the ground trace gets burned and the connection is lost.
Thanks Perry,
I remember that tip from your tutorial which is why I had my bench in that particular configuration. When I forgot the jumper on one amp I had some wicked noise until I put the jumper back. The weird thing about this Orion amp is that when I tried to run both the head unit and the amp from my big power supply to see if it would eliminate the noise, is that it sounded real clean. I guess these older amps are a lot more susitiable to noise than the modern amps. Also these things seem to be amp hogs. While running my sine wave endurance test, I have observed this amp requires about 45 amps to produce ~16 VAC on the audio output load of my power transistors. I may be missing something but just from what I have worked on previously, this amp seems to be very inefficient. None the less I am on very excited about getting it going again. Also 90scaraudio pointed out that this amp is not rated to run at 2 ohms bridged mode which is what my brother had it running at. He said it got real hot but the killing blow was when the sub box slid forward and caused the orion battery cable to short out against the body of a pioneer amp. Even though the amp has been dead for 15 years he distinctly remembers the arc weld that was left on the pioneer amp when this happened.
I remember that tip from your tutorial which is why I had my bench in that particular configuration. When I forgot the jumper on one amp I had some wicked noise until I put the jumper back. The weird thing about this Orion amp is that when I tried to run both the head unit and the amp from my big power supply to see if it would eliminate the noise, is that it sounded real clean. I guess these older amps are a lot more susitiable to noise than the modern amps. Also these things seem to be amp hogs. While running my sine wave endurance test, I have observed this amp requires about 45 amps to produce ~16 VAC on the audio output load of my power transistors. I may be missing something but just from what I have worked on previously, this amp seems to be very inefficient. None the less I am on very excited about getting it going again. Also 90scaraudio pointed out that this amp is not rated to run at 2 ohms bridged mode which is what my brother had it running at. He said it got real hot but the killing blow was when the sub box slid forward and caused the orion battery cable to short out against the body of a pioneer amp. Even though the amp has been dead for 15 years he distinctly remembers the arc weld that was left on the pioneer amp when this happened.
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