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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Rantoul, IL
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Quote:
Yes they are the same...
Last edited by 90scaraudio; 28th September 2012 at 02:41 AM. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: non
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are these pre-drivers or post drivers? post-drivers (drivers directly tied to outputs) i end u replacing with MJE based parts. every amp is different, but ive seen some with only 1 driver pair, some with 2 layers, and even high power ones with 3 layers of drivers. crazy...
The last orion like this i worked on, i junked it. gave me too many headaches. the power supply stage would whine and do weird stuff. no shorts anywhere, but half the bank would heat up quickly in the power supply section and the other half was ok. twisting the torroid reveled the fault. So i junked it. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
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I assume these are pre driver, I pulled out that bad MPSU 07 and had the anp actually power up and had the other channel playing. I got too aggressive and and started cranking the volume to see how much power I was getting and it looks like I blew another transistor pair on that channel (my fault for not putting more screws in the clamp) I'm trying to get about 6 of those driver transistors off of 90caraudio and I'm going to replace all the other power supply transistors since this amp is like 25 years old. At this point I know it is about just restoring an old piece of car audio history and having the pleasure of knowing I could get it going. The only other thing I noticed while I had the other channel playing was that there was some noise (between songs it had a low hertz pulse)
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Do you have any transistors on hand as of now?
Did you read all of the information on the older Orion amps in the miscellaneous stuff folder? search for all .txt and all .htm files in the following folder and read all of it. There isn't anything specific that you need to know right now but you should read it. repair_tutorial\miscellaneousstuff\orion
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Rantoul, IL
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Quote:
Mouser has these for $0.60 ea. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Using the TO-220 in place of the TO-202 is shown on the Tech Tips 7 page, item #24.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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MPSW06 and MPSW56 are suitable
I've always use them for replacement. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Rantoul, IL
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Using the TO-220 in place of the TO-202 is shown on the Tech Tips 7 page, item #24??
Perry... Tried searching for this and cant find it... Sorry, could you please point me in the right direction. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Rantoul, IL
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It's on the DVD tutorial. This is a screen cap:
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/to220-to202conversion01.jpg The MPSA parts are typically OK for testing and in the pre-driver locations but in the larger amps, they are not suitable in the driver locations.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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