Lanzar Opti Drive Plus 100

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Ok, I figured it out. Navigating Perry's website can be difficult, but I eventually came to what I was looking for. Rail voltages are 27.7 and -27.7v perspectively while the amp is in the green. I used my Opti drive 50 for reference and it has the exact same rail voltages.

I checked the dc volts on the outputs again and both amps behave the same. I did notice that the thermistor on the 50 sits at 88ohms cold and the one on my 100 is 314ohms cold. The thermistor on the 100 is bigger and may just have a different value. Resistance climbs with heat, so I'm assuming it is fine.
 
Have you checked the lower rails supply to the op-amps ? Place your black lead as you did for the 27 volt rail and check the voltages on the op-amps. it should be +&- 15 or 16 volts.
If that checks out I think were back looking at those opto couplers. Let me know about the op-amps rails supply, and what you find there.
 
U1, U2, U3, U4 are the op-amps located in front of each vertical board. I can't see the number on them but two of the pins carry the rails. Just want to make sure they are working properly. Pin 4 and pin 8 should have the rails on them unless its a single op-amp and then pin 4 and pin 7 will the rail pins.

Can't really see in the picture but Q13 and Q22 look like the lower rail supply regulators, and they are very close to one of the opto's in the power supply circuitry. The wires in the picture block my view to be sure...
 
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Thanks again! I got +14.2v on pin 1 on all and -12.9v on pin 8 on all four. I checked the op-amps on my working Opti Drive 50 and they are in the same neighborhood. The negative voltage is 1.2v less than the positive on those too, so I'm assuming that is normal. So, do I now look towards the opto couplers? Any way I can troubleshoot them?
 
Sorry was down for R&R yesterday, Thanks Perry !:)

as for the opto's without a schematic in hand I would say the best way to test them is to read all the voltages on the PWM chip and post them. This way both Perry and myself can see the errant voltage to the power supply control chip. This will likely point us directly to the culprit.
Black lead to ground of 12 volt supply and red lead to test all pins for their voltage reading after protection sets in.

The best other option is to just replace both of them out of speed and due that they cost very little to begin with. < a shot in the dark >. As I posted early on in the thread I have had to replace the opto's before to get this and several other brand names of amps just to come out of protection to finish troubleshooting whatever else issues it had. Lanzar of this era is top of the list for this along with Clarion and ARC audio right behind from my memory.
 
I'll try to get some 4N25's at the local circuit supply place later this week. It will only cost me $0.80.

Here is a hint on removal of the old ones. just use some fine diagonal clippers to cut the leads close to the plastic case. Then simply pull the device case out of the way. Then carefully de-solder each lead using fine tweezers to pull the lead out, trying to leave the thru hole clear enough to insert the new device. Some solder wick or a good solder vacuum removal tools helps nicely at this point. This should protect the PC board thru holes and speed your work up some.

I also noted a resistor on the board that looked like it had flash marks underneath it. R70 near the blue wire looks like it has seen high heat and is discolored in the last pics you posted. Please check it to verify if its in spec to its color bands. You can Google search resistor codes to find how to read the bands and it should read very near what its bands denote its value should be. I would myself but on blow up the picture blurs too much for the detail I need to see its value.
 
we need to list all the voltages on each pin of the PWM control chip. Its the large one in the center of the opto's. Turn the amp on and let it go into protect and then measure each pin of the PWM chip with your black probe connected to the ground of the 12 volt supply. please list them pin for pin I.E. pin1 = Pin2 = etc...

Another option is for you to directly compare the voltages from your working amps PWM to the non working amps PWM and then just post any differences you may find.
 
Wow! I put this thing off to the side, pretty much giving up on it. Then I circled back and figured it out. So I initially tested the thermistor by measuring the resistance, heating it up, and making sure that the resistance went up. Well, after tracing everything back over the last couple days and finding nothing, I ended up comparing the resistance of the thermistor on this amp to the resistance of the one on my 50. The 50 was about 50 ohms and mine was about 800. So I put a resistor across the circuit to mimick the 50 ohms and voila! It works perfect!! I am happy as a clam now. I have some sentimental attachment to this amp. It used to drive 2 Lanzar Pro Plus 12's HARD!!! That being said, I royally beat this thing back then since I was running both 4 ohm subs in parallel with the sub wave boost way up and 50hz cranked off my Kenwood 5 band EQ. :eek:

Not I need to figure out where to replace this thing. The letters on it are something like PD1 UEISK. That is not bringing up anything for me. Anyone care to help?
 
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