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Old 8th September 2012, 01:47 AM   #21
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Ok, I figured it out. Navigating Perry's website can be difficult, but I eventually came to what I was looking for. Rail voltages are 27.7 and -27.7v perspectively while the amp is in the green. I used my Opti drive 50 for reference and it has the exact same rail voltages.

I checked the dc volts on the outputs again and both amps behave the same. I did notice that the thermistor on the 50 sits at 88ohms cold and the one on my 100 is 314ohms cold. The thermistor on the 100 is bigger and may just have a different value. Resistance climbs with heat, so I'm assuming it is fine.
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Old 8th September 2012, 05:18 PM   #22
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Have you checked the lower rails supply to the op-amps ? Place your black lead as you did for the 27 volt rail and check the voltages on the op-amps. it should be +&- 15 or 16 volts.
If that checks out I think were back looking at those opto couplers. Let me know about the op-amps rails supply, and what you find there.
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Old 8th September 2012, 05:29 PM   #23
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Ok. I will check that out as soon as I figure out what the op-amps / lower rails are. Sorry. Still learning the terminology. If you read this, give me a hint where to look.
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Old 8th September 2012, 07:15 PM   #24
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U1, U2, U3, U4 are the op-amps located in front of each vertical board. I can't see the number on them but two of the pins carry the rails. Just want to make sure they are working properly. Pin 4 and pin 8 should have the rails on them unless its a single op-amp and then pin 4 and pin 7 will the rail pins.

Can't really see in the picture but Q13 and Q22 look like the lower rail supply regulators, and they are very close to one of the opto's in the power supply circuitry. The wires in the picture block my view to be sure...

Last edited by 1moreamp; 8th September 2012 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 9th September 2012, 06:31 PM   #25
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Thanks again! I got +14.2v on pin 1 on all and -12.9v on pin 8 on all four. I checked the op-amps on my working Opti Drive 50 and they are in the same neighborhood. The negative voltage is 1.2v less than the positive on those too, so I'm assuming that is normal. So, do I now look towards the opto couplers? Any way I can troubleshoot them?
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Old 10th September 2012, 12:28 AM   #26
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To clarify, he needed the voltage on pins 4 and 8, not 1 and 8.

Also, the polarity is wrong on pin 8. Are you sure that the meter probes are installed into the correct ports on the meter?
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Old 10th September 2012, 02:15 PM   #27
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Thanks for noticing that Perry. I hit the correct pins when I was testing, but somehow had the pinout wrong in my head when I posted a couple hours later. See correct info below:

I got +14.2v on pin 8 on all and -12.9v on pin 4 on all four.

Last edited by Buickmike; 10th September 2012 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 10th September 2012, 07:59 PM   #28
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Sorry was down for R&R yesterday, Thanks Perry !

as for the opto's without a schematic in hand I would say the best way to test them is to read all the voltages on the PWM chip and post them. This way both Perry and myself can see the errant voltage to the power supply control chip. This will likely point us directly to the culprit.
Black lead to ground of 12 volt supply and red lead to test all pins for their voltage reading after protection sets in.

The best other option is to just replace both of them out of speed and due that they cost very little to begin with. < a shot in the dark >. As I posted early on in the thread I have had to replace the opto's before to get this and several other brand names of amps just to come out of protection to finish troubleshooting whatever else issues it had. Lanzar of this era is top of the list for this along with Clarion and ARC audio right behind from my memory.
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Old 10th September 2012, 10:56 PM   #29
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I'll try to get some 4N25's at the local circuit supply place later this week. It will only cost me $0.80.
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Old 11th September 2012, 04:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buickmike View Post
I'll try to get some 4N25's at the local circuit supply place later this week. It will only cost me $0.80.
Here is a hint on removal of the old ones. just use some fine diagonal clippers to cut the leads close to the plastic case. Then simply pull the device case out of the way. Then carefully de-solder each lead using fine tweezers to pull the lead out, trying to leave the thru hole clear enough to insert the new device. Some solder wick or a good solder vacuum removal tools helps nicely at this point. This should protect the PC board thru holes and speed your work up some.

I also noted a resistor on the board that looked like it had flash marks underneath it. R70 near the blue wire looks like it has seen high heat and is discolored in the last pics you posted. Please check it to verify if its in spec to its color bands. You can Google search resistor codes to find how to read the bands and it should read very near what its bands denote its value should be. I would myself but on blow up the picture blurs too much for the detail I need to see its value.
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