Hifonics BRZ2400.1D No Output...Used to be in Protect - diyAudio
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Old 12th July 2012, 10:09 PM   #1
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Default Hifonics BRZ2400.1D No Output...Used to be in Protect

I was running this amp at 0.5 ohms for 3 months and then the amp would start going into Protect at high volumes. It then started going into protect at medium-high levels so I re-wired my subs to be at a 2 ohm load but amp still went into protect. After getting into protect about 10 times, it finally gave out and stayed in protect. During troubleshooting I reconnected the amp and heard a pop and smelled something but no visible smoke and now the amp is no longer in protect but has no output. Attached is a few pictures of the amp. I have not taken any measurements but in the center of the board between the 8gauge speaker wires shows a blown 10uF 250V capacitor. I have already ordered a replacement cap with same specifications and I was going to give that a try first. Can anyone point me in the right direction of other problems that can be going on while I wait for the cap to be shipped?

PS..I never took apart this board so if anyone can instruct me on how to take off the retaining clips from the heat sink sides that'd be great.

Also the BRZ2400.1D and BXI2600 series uses the exact same board and components. Last picture is with both amps side by side.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BRZ2400.0.jpg (436.9 KB, 185 views)
File Type: jpg BRZ2400.1.jpg (408.0 KB, 171 views)
File Type: jpg BRZ2400.2.jpg (389.4 KB, 165 views)
File Type: jpg BRZ2400.3.jpg (444.8 KB, 159 views)
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Old 12th July 2012, 10:36 PM   #2
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For the clips, click HERE.

The capacitor may cause it to go into protect but there are several SMD transistors (Q7, 11, 19 and 22) on the driver board that commonly fail and can make the amp go into protect.

Did you order a non-polarized capacitor?
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Old 12th July 2012, 10:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
For the clips, click HERE.

The capacitor may cause it to go into protect but there are several SMD transistors (Q7, 11, 19 and 22) on the driver board that commonly fail and can make the amp go into protect.

Did you order a non-polarized capacitor?
I am not too sure if I got a polarized or non one but this is the one I orderedHERE. I just matched specs for capacitance, operating temp, and voltage...Did I get wrong one? Also by driver board, are you referring to the little circuit board that plugs into the main big board? Sorry for being noob...
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Old 12th July 2012, 11:05 PM   #4
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That's a polarized capacitor. If it's connected across the speaker output, as I assume that it is, it won't work. The mouser part 667-ECQ-E2106JF will work but it's a different type of capacitor so it won't mount the same way as the original.

Yes. The driver board is likely marked DWM1216.
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Old 12th July 2012, 11:27 PM   #5
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I'm going to look into the amp again and see if I see markings for polarity in the cap. Still trying to brush up on my EE but the cap I got is polarized because the legs determine the polarity right? And the one you referred me to is AC so polarity shifts.

Also, do I just test the SMD transistors same way as regular legged transistors?
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Old 12th July 2012, 11:42 PM   #6
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Yo can't go by the markings on the board. Some board layouts use polarized markings regardless of the capacitor.

The capacitor is rated for DC voltage, not AC voltage. Many polarized capacitors don't work well with DC.
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Old 12th July 2012, 11:49 PM   #7
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Okay I see. Thanks for the clarification! I will report my findings once I start taking taking measurements.
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Old 13th July 2012, 06:25 PM   #8
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I don't like Mouser (shipping is bull) but this ONE the exact same right?

Last edited by danterakin; 13th July 2012 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 14th July 2012, 04:38 AM   #9
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It's the same.

Mouser only charges approximately $4.50 for shipping for small orders.
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Old 16th July 2012, 09:04 PM   #10
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So I am going to get the caps you recommended since that's the only place I can find them in stock and shipping to me is $7 so I was thinking about getting a few other parts just so that I don't waste my money on shipping. I was thinking about what I should also get that would usually fail. Here are the following transistors along the heat sink I have on my board:

Qty | Model
12 IRFPO64N
4 MU32U
10 FQP12P20
10 FQP19N20
1 KA7915
1 KA7815

I did try to get some resistance values between legs on the transistors and some seem to be shorted but I am not sure if I did the procedure correctly and that I did not remove any of the transistors off the board to test individually.

Last thing was that on the driver board, the chip doesn't pop out right? Its soldiered in the board? I don't want to tug the crap out of it if it is soldiered.
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