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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wales
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Got given it with one channel out with blown FETs and the chassis ground track which i have now replaced. I connected it up to my bench supply to see how it behaved with some power. Set the supply to limit the current and got as far a 4A 4.3V whilst checking voltages. Wasn't sure whether it was a good idea to push the current any higher as i'd rather not blow the FETs, though my bench supply can only go as far as 10A anyway. (wouldn't have expected the amp to require that much for quiescent) Even at this level the repaired side gets warm, whilst the working side remains cold.
Here are the measurements i got if they are of any use: Repaired channel in red italic (No service manual, so I've numbered them 1 to 4, 1 being closest to the power terminals and 4 being up by the rectifying diodes) FET 1 Gate - drain 0.01V Gate - source -4.29V Source - drain -4.30V FET 1 Gate - drain 4.24V Gate - source 0.00V Source - drain -4.24V Measuring with ground probe on power ground FET1/2/3/4 (all measured the same) Gate 4.30V Drain 4.31V Source 0.01V FET1 Gate 4.24V Drain 0.03V Source 4.23V FET2 Gate 2.20V Drain 4.25V Source 0.02V FET3 Gate 0.02V Drain 4.25V Source 0.02V FET4 Gate 0.02V Drain 4.25V Source 0.02V Switch mode control IC 1 (closest to chassis, reckon this might be the repaired channel, but not certain) 1. 0.02V 2. 0.02V 3. 0.02V 4. 0.02V 5. 0.02V 6. 0.02V 7. 0.02V 8. 2.23V 9. 0.02V 10. 2.20V 11. 2.23V 12. 0.02V 13. 0.02V 14. 0.02V 15. 0.02V 16. 0.02V Switch mode control IC 2 (further in) 1. 0.02V 2. 0.02V 3. 0.02V 4. 0.02V 5. 0.02V 6. 0.02V 7. 0.02V 8. 2.23V 9. 2.90V 10. 2.91V 11. 2.23V 12. 2.23V 13. 0.02V 14. 0.02V 15. 0.02V 16. 0.02V |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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In the future, use the circuit board designations that are printed on the board (Q809, Q810...).
Confirm that R841-844 are within tolerance.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wales
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The circuit board designations may be on the bottom of the board.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wales
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I've had a look and only the IC's have designations on the underside along with R ch and L ch labels.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The resistors that you need to check are the larger ones standing near the power supply FETs. They are 110 ohm resistors.
I'm assuming that you've confirmed that the gate resistors are within tolerance and that none of the FETs are shorted.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wales
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Not yet checked the gate resistors, assume they should be 100ohms. The FETs i put in tested good. (They were new) The old ones i removed (all 4) were shorted.
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