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Old 14th June 2012, 09:06 PM   #11
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Well, I'm already how at first (all mosfet in place)

Rockford answer me again, telling me they were sorry, that was a current model amplifier, and the engineering department had not yet published the scheme.

When connecting the amplifier, only power LED lights, will not turn any of the other two LED protection, despite having 66.1 V at the terminals of the speakers.

Tested all fet out, and found none, shorted or open, it is rare .... because if any in poor condition, should turn led some protection, right? Or why not turn on?

I'm a little lost,,, has any idea where to go?
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Old 15th June 2012, 04:01 AM   #12
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It's going to be difficult to troubleshoot without the schematic diagram.

Not all Rockford amps have DC offset protection.

Check all transistors. diodes and resistors in that half of the amp. Check them in the circuit. Only remove components to check them if they appear to be defective.

Confirm that all op-amps have supply voltage on their power supply pins and confirm that all regulators are producing the correct output voltage.
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Old 15th June 2012, 10:28 PM   #13
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I checked a few pieces, without finding any bad, (I have more pieces to check yet)

I have some tensions:

U1000 regulator (LM317)
Adj: 12.64 V
Vin: 23.11 V
Vout: 13.89 V

U1001 regulator (LM337)
Adj: -14.08 V
Vin: -22.17 V
Vout: -15.36 V

These measures, are they correct? (I think so ...)

Also two operational (one of them quite difficult to access, see photo)
U3 TL072 (near RCAs)
pin 4: -13.70 V
pin 8: 12.24 V

TL072 (the one below in the photo, which is barely visible) (U. ...?)
pin 4: 0V
pin 8: 12.25 V

Should I keep track of the pin 4 volts should be negative?
Any ideas? (What good would the scheme ....) (I'm looking for ...)
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Old 16th June 2012, 01:47 AM   #14
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If pin 4 of one of the op-amps reads 0 ohms to any of the speaker terminals, it's likely normal to have 0v on it.
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Old 20th June 2012, 10:37 PM   #15
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Yes, the pin4 of the op-amp, it reads 0 on the speaker terminals ...

Well, it seems I've been lucky ...

I continued checking components, and thinking, thinking, there has been a moment when he connected (with the meter on the terminals of the speaker) that occurred to me, pressing down on C1015, and have disappeared 66V !! leaving only 0.052 V!!

So, I returned to tin, again the three capacitors, and C1001, 1002,1003,1004,1005,1008 (because I was suspicious of their welds)

I connected the speaker, audio input, and sing! for half an hour without any problem.

This I found strange, if you know think that this is a difficult amplifier, or to save on costs, have spared tin ? Will there be manufactured in China?
What do you think, Perry?

Anyway, I will not tire, to thank Perry for his help.

I applied for the scheme in two places, and do not know if I send it, if they do not hesitate to send your mail, Perry.
A greeting.
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Old 21st June 2012, 12:33 AM   #16
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I don't understand the questions.

What schematic diagram are you looking for?
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Old 21st June 2012, 07:49 AM   #17
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Sorry, my questions, only, observations, do not worry, Perry

The wiring diagram to which I refer is the one requested in post # 7

And I said, I've requested in two websites, and if they send me, me, I send you, via email, Perry.

Thank you.
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Old 12th September 2012, 05:47 PM   #18
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Bad news, I again have problems with this amp ....

The amplifier had been working when I left it (in June) since then, until now, has been in the closet, without connecting.
Now I want to install it on my car, and yesterday, I decided to try it, (because I did not trust)

It is rare ....
When connected, output from the speaker terminals, 50 to 63 volts, but when I press down on a point on the motherboard (see photo) with a pencil "disappear" leaving only, 0.056 volts ... ..

I have reviewed tin solder near the point, without success ...
I replaced the three capacitors power supply ... (previous capacitors were swollen), could it be that the swell, push the lid and turn the motherboard, causing a cut on her?

Could be a leaky transistor?
The fact is, that when it starts to run (0.056 v) and then continues to run smoothly, but if we give a tap on the area, stops working ...

I do not know, I do not know .... I have lost .... I think so many things that could be ....
And I can not find the wiring diagram .... ggrrrrrr,,,,,
Keep looking .....
Any help is appreciated.
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Old 13th September 2012, 06:00 AM   #19
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The solder connections on the 4 large SMD transistors in this area fail. For testing, you can sometimes simply solder the connections in place. To make it reliable, the transistors need to be removed, the pads cleaned on the board and the terminals cleaned on the transistors.

Sometimes these transistors become intermittent. I've had at least one that checked bad in the board (open B-E junction) but checked OK out of the board so I'd advise checking them in the board as well as out of the board.

If they're readily available, I'd advise replacing them.

I've substituted TO-220 transistors in a few amps but haven't done enough to know if it's 100% reliable (although it should be). I've used 2N6488s and 2N6491s. The transistor shown is a 2N6491. The rest are NPN and would be subbed with the 2N6488 if necessary.
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Old 13th September 2012, 06:09 PM   #20
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Thank you very much Perry, your information is very valuable to me.
I will send request transistors.
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